• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

installing blocker plate/finger stick AND code P0403 question

Pepperidge said:
I would just buy an EGR delete Kit and still use the finger stick...or use EFI live to program afterwards instead of the finger stick
Click to expand...

CtChevy427 said:
This truly is the best way to go but a finger stick will not stop all the codes you are going to get...:hihi:

I would stick to the blocker plate and finger stick. EFI live can be a dangerous thing....:eek:
Click to expand...


All the codes? I think I'm getting confused. My understanding is the FS will not clear the P0403 that I have now.

So with EFI live, you pay $99 to have someone with EFI live tune it for you. What do you do if you want a performance tune but occasionally tow heavy?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Odlaw said:
All the codes? I think I'm getting confused. My understanding is the FS will not clear the P0403 that I have now.
Click to expand...

That is correct

My quoted above statement was directed towards Pepperidge's suggestion. With a total EGR delete there are other codes that will appear. Your FS will take care of the code(s) caused by blocking the EGR.


Odlaw said:
So with EFI live, you pay $99 to have someone with EFI live tune it for you. What do you do if you want a performance tune but occasionally tow heavy?
Click to expand...

Yes, the $99 will purchase a license that will be needed to tune your truck only. Any changes to a tune or a new tune will have to be performed by the person that first did the tuning.
 
CtChevy427 said:
That is correct

My quoted above statement was directed towards Pepperidge's suggestion. With a total EGR delete there are other codes that will appear. Your FS will take care of the code(s) caused by blocking the EGR.




Yes, the $99 will purchase a license that will be needed to tune your truck only. Any changes to a tune or a new tune will have to be performed by the person that first did the tuning.
Click to expand...

gotcha, well, that setup won't work for me. I haul heavy roughly 15 times a year (hay and equipment) 10k-12k pounds and need to conveniently switch from perf. tune to tow tune.....and at $800.00 a pop, EFI Live is totally out of the question.

Thanks for the info though.
Smitty
 
You could get someone to program it at a reasonable price and write you a dual tune and get a dsp2 switch that wires into your ECM and then you will have a switchable tune...

don't know what someone would charge for that...but I would guess you could call Henry(creatures of the night) and see what he can get that done for for you...if you don't want the actual EFI V2 it will be way cheaper than $800...my guess is for around $400 you can get a tow tune, a mild performance tune and a DSP2 switch...
 
I think that is all the dealer would do. They did that to mine when I first got the code. It didn't last long, as I went back a week later and they changed the EGR valve and motor in order to completely fix the problem. The soot really does a number on the internals. Grady did a nice writeup on cleaning the intake manifold just downstream from the EGR. I'll see if I can get a link for you.
 
update; I cleared the code and it stayed off for a little over three weeks this time. I dropped by my buddy's shop that just replaced the d-max in one of his wreckers and he had a erg motor laying out on the bench - so I was able to look at it. There is not a whole lot to them and I was wondering exactly what are the dealers "cleaning"?
 
see the plunger, that gets all carbon'd clean both sides and the actuator. but this is only a temporary solution as the solenoid burn out from trying to move with all that carbon stopping it.

if you want, i have a 30k ish egr motor in a box along with a my old grid heater from when i deleted my egr
 
OK, finally got around to pulling the egr motor...thing is spotless and the actuator moves nice and smooth. The plunger (EGR valve) that you see inside after removing the motor, it was clean on the side I can see...I would imagine the other(inside) is gunked up...but I pressed it in and it moves VERY smoothly and is spring loaded to return. I was actually surprised how smooth it moved by hand. Replaced the egr motor and reset the code - still off after 100 miles or so. When a dealer does a "cleaning" are they removing the egr cooler to get to the egr valve? I'm thinking I may actually have a motor thats taking a dump...in that case I'll be calling dmaxfireman on that egr motor. ;)
 
At that point you should seriously consider going EGR delete. But a used egr motor as a replacement will be cheaper.
 
OK. finally got around to installing the plate and FS. Completed it this past weekend and headed out to north GA on vacation(where I'm at right now). About 200 miles in to the trip, CEL came on, read the codes at the next stop - p0402 and p0403. I soldered all connections but I'm going to double check em when it warms up a bit. Also, it appears I have a small leak at the blocker plate. I brought my swivel head ratchet and 12mm deep well for that purpose.
Any other ideas?

Thanks
 
Odlaw said:
shouldn't the blocker plate prevent the 402 code? I wouldn't think it would see excessive flow when it's blocked off...other than a wiring fault on the finger stick.
Click to expand...
I get a 402 several times a week. It is meaningless (and goes away at 5 key cycles if not cleared with an OBD scanner) but a PITA all the same. I'm not in a position at this time to go full EGR delete but I eventually will probably do that. I think EFI will kill all the EGR codes as well but I'm not sure if the FS has to be pulled and the wiring returned to stock first.
 
The p0403 code has to do with the EGR not functioning properly. The two codes might be in some way related no really sure. I would go over the wiring again and check for any intake leaks.
 
Last edited:
EFILIVE can kill ALL of the EGR codes. Yes the FS needs to be removed as it isn't neccesary with custom tuning. And do you have the latest flash to deal with code P0403?
 
Even though someone places a blocker and finger stick on the truck, the truck itself still needs to have a working EGR valve and stepper motor, or else you get these codes. As Mike stated, the codes do not mean much, other than a CEL Light annoyance.

AND yes, EFI Live is even better. Perhaps the best, but also more costly.
 
RI Chevy Silveradoman said:
Even though someone places a blocker and finger stick on the truck, the truck itself still needs to have a working EGR valve and stepper motor, or else you get these codes. As Mike stated, the codes do not mean much, other than a CEL Light annoyance.

AND yes, EFI Live is even better. Perhaps the best, but also more costly.
Click to expand...


Unless you find somebody like me who will flash one for yeah. I did the last one for a friend for $225, $125 for the VIN license, $50 for teh DSP5 switch, and $50 for the use of my V2 and doing the tuning. Then again I do it for fun and to help understand tuning better, so I don't really do it for a profit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top