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Inexpensive Drilled/Slotted Brake Rotors.

bowtiebutler956

bowtiebutler956

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Location
Harlingen, Texas
I've known for awhile that I was going to need to do front brakes, as the pads were getting thin. My front rotor were cupped (looked the last owner had just slapped pads on without turning the rotor, maybe a couple times), which I've been known to do on occasion, especially on the "pain in the rear" type like these 4x4's. Since I had some ahead of time warning, I did some researching to see what the best was I could get on new rotors. I was surprised to see I could actually get drilled/slotted rotors almost as cheap as regular ones, so I figured "why not", it can't hurt. I bought these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/181617850351?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
The quality seems pretty good on them, and they are very thick. Even with the caliper pistons fully compressed, there was just enough clearance to slid them back on with the new pads. They run very true with no pulsing in the brake pedal, and they're performance seems good. I don't notice a big difference, but the brakes do feel stronger. I'll be curious to see if the help with brake fade when pulling a trailer. I have several trailers, and while my car hauler has trailer brakes the other two don't, and when I'm pulling them, my brakes leave something to be desired.
I used a good set of pads ($40), not the cheap $12, and $20 dollar ones they offered below these. I had to replace the brakes hoses too, as they were getting very cracked. While, I was in there, I replaced any wheel stud that I couldn't turn the nut off of by hand once broke loose, which was 8 out of 16, as well as lug nuts. My total in parts for this job was was $162 including the rotors.
I'll be curious to see how these rotors hold up, but for the price, you can't go wrong.

Matt
 

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Don't use the Ebay fitment chart. Scroll down the page, and click on the fitment chart that the actual site has. They tell you that the Ebay chart is wrong. That link is for the 8 lug 2500/3500 single rear wheel trucks, and burbs.

Matt
 
Make sure and update us on how they hold up, I will need another set here soon. I put the heavy duty RAYBESTOS ones on mine, but one trip through the mountains towing warped em pretty good. And getting this style rotor turned is just about impossible due to how they mount up.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Make sure and update us on how they hold up, I will need another set here soon. I put the heavy duty RAYBESTOS ones on mine, but one trip through the mountains towing warped em pretty good. And getting this style rotor turned is just about impossible due to how they mount up.
Click to expand...

You bet. Once I've made a couple long trips with a trailer, I'll pull the wheels back off, and have a look at them. Now if they warp, they'll be no need to remove the wheels. :D I'll let you know.

Matt
 
Drilled rotors will crack, its simpy a matter of when. Every single set I've used cracked and others the same. I was willing to risk it because it wasn't a tow rig, just a daily driver and I am constantly tinkering so I was always looking for cracks.

I put some Raybesto's slotted rotors on my customers 98 and he likes them, it was his idea.

Price doesn't really equate to performance with pads per say, what brand did you put on? Ceramics are bad for towing and HD use, semi metallic are better suited for that.
 
JayTheCPA said:
Ah, got it. Just one more reason to install a clutch in front of a six speed :D
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Not really. The ALLISON does a good job of keeping the RPM's up in tow/haul mode, but the LB7 with just a wastegated turbo doesn't provide alot of engine braking coming down a grade. If I had a VGT on it like the LLY+ has, then I could have a turbo brake which would help TREMEDOUSLY!
 
bowtiebutler956 said:
I'll keep an eye on them TVM, and if they do eventually crack, no big deal for $80 a pair. Just cheap replacement rotors at the auto parts cost more than these. Pads I used were semi metallic. Link here. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/OBB0/SM370/03351.oap?year=1993&make=Chevrolet&model=K2500+Pickup+4WD&vi=5002338&ck=Search_C0068_5002338_1783&pt=C0068&ppt=C0009

Matt
Click to expand...

The money isn't a big deal it's changing them that sucks. The preferred way to go is slotted without being drilled to eliminate the cracking issue. Word of warning they will cool things down faster causing "cold friction" that doesn't stop as fast as warm/hot brakes. (Till fade steps in that is) So if you are used to going a mile down the freeway and then stopping hard on the off ramp they will be cold and catch you with your paints down.

We were getting 12K out of a set of pads on a 1995 Yukon. With drilled/slotted the pad life went up to 17K per set.

Rotors warp and cause pulsing mainly by a hard stop that gets them red hot and then just sitting at a stop. The red hot pads sit on the rotor and heat hardens the area under the pad. You need to creep on the rotors after a hard stop by rolling forward a little every few seconds. This helps them cool evenly and prevents the hardening in just one spot. You can't turn this damage out as the cutting tool bounces off the hard spots. (Get new ones.) 3K miles later they are back for the same pulsing if you try and turn them.

X2 on semi metallic for towing.
 
You south boys should be good for a while with the fancy drilled rotors. In this salt pit state, it eats them alive. The holes fill up with rust then they become trash in 8-10 months. The slotted ain't any better.
 
WarWagon said:
The money isn't a big deal it's changing them that sucks. The preferred way to go is slotted without being drilled to eliminate the cracking issue. Word of warning they will cool things down faster causing "cold friction" that doesn't stop as fast as warm/hot brakes. (Till fade steps in that is) So if you are used to going a mile down the freeway and then stopping hard on the off ramp they will be cold and catch you with your paints down.

We were getting 12K out of a set of pads on a 1995 Yukon. With drilled/slotted the pad life went up to 17K per set.

Rotors warp and cause pulsing mainly by a hard stop that gets them red hot and then just sitting at a stop. The red hot pads sit on the rotor and heat hardens the area under the pad. You need to creep on the rotors after a hard stop by rolling forward a little every few seconds. This helps them cool evenly and prevents the hardening in just one spot. You can't turn this damage out as the cutting tool bounces off the hard spots. (Get new ones.) 3K miles later they are back for the same pulsing if you try and turn them.

X2 on semi metallic for towing.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice on how to help keep my rotors from warping WarWagon. I agree, changing out the 4x4 rotors is a pain in the rear, so I hope they last awhile.

3500GMC said:
You south boys should be good for a while with the fancy drilled rotors. In this salt pit state, it eats them alive. The holes fill up with rust then they become trash in 8-10 months. The slotted ain't any better.
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I thank the Lord every day for the climate I live in. :) I have several friends who live in the rust belt, and I hate working on vehicle from that area. When I'm working under one of vehicles, I can almost hear all those rusty bolt whispering "touch me, and I'll break off". :D
We don't have a rust problem here, and all but the machined surfaces are powder coated on these rotors.

Matt
 
In the one of the fleets, we had best luck with the factory rotors, never found an aftermarket rotor the drivers could not warp on the gmt400's. We found the longer lasting the pad, the faster it killed the rotor, but raybestos did best in each catagory. We were testing some of the drilled/slotted rotors when a driver rear-ended someone at a redlight really bad. Of coarse he said the brakes didn't work normal to keep his job, but their lawyer used our upgraded brakes as proof the company knew the drivers always were speeding. Estimated speed at time of impact was 52 in a 45 zone. How fast was he really going, or did he ever hit the brakes is more like it. We drove the truck into the shop for repairs, and brakes worked fine then... After that lawsuit our lawyers ended all brake and tire testing. Factory approved only for liability. I never did get to finish the then new truck brembos for testing, wish I could have, looked promising.
 
In that scenario, I have found that a call to the vehicle's HR department or dispatch tends to get a good reception from the people I talk with as they appreciate the opportunity to coach the driver *before* an incident occurs. Do not care if somebody wants to push the speed limit a bit as that is their business, but draw the line when there is an apparent Formula1 / Stock Car driving style.

Kind of ironic that the attorneys advised to use only OE brakes as I have heard of cases which were lost due to deficiencies in OE brake systems (specifically: dually while loaded / towing).
 
I have had luck with the Raybestos Advanced Technology Slotted bi-directional rotors. They'r like $80+ at Rockauto, but have not warped them yet and most of my miles are either towing or up and down mountains.
 
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