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Improved fuel economy?

O

Only Solid Mods

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1 I'm considering the GDP flavor of EFI. Someone I know just a little claims he is getting over 24 miles per gallon on the highway at more than 70 miles per hour with this chip. Also I am considering using cts2 for monitoring. Any thoughts?

2 What would be the best fuel injectors to use when the time comes for replacement? I am looking for quality longevity and economy.
 
You bought a 3/4 or 1 ton and your concern is MPG?! :facepalm:

Your MPG falls off quick over 62 MPH. Anyone claiming mid 20's for MPG at 70 MPH is telling a lie to you to sell you a diesel pickup truck. Or they flunked math. The highest I have seen in a Duramax is 18 MPG, outstanding 21 MPG with a 2003 Cummins Manual Trans and the AC OFF. Gas 1/2 tons get 18 MPG or better now and the TCO is lower.

You need to enjoy your truck and NOT worry about the irrelevant krap like MPG or when sometime in the future you got to spend big bucks on it.

You can add better fuel filtration, water separator, and a lift pump to help the life of your injectors. Some only add that after replacing an injector set as higher mile injectors already ate a bunch of stuff from the so-so factory filter.

You do have a legit question on injectors as they are expensive and lots of cheap garbage out there because people are cheap and willing to risk an engine meltdown to save 5 cents.
 
With my STOCK 2006, Chevy 2500HD, 4X4, Crew Cab with the Century Camper shell, the BEST fuel mileage I ever got was 22.8 MPG and never have duplicated that again. That mileage run was on a 2 lane and 4 lane road, mostly flat, traveling anywhere from 55 MPH to 65 MPH and I was at night in rainy conditions. That was a short 110 mile mileage run. That trip I probably had 600 hundred pounds of hunting gear in the truck.

Maybe one other time the best mileage I ever got was 20.3 MPG or something like that.

On the Interstate traveling at 70 MPH, most of the time my truck gets 19 MPG to 19.8 MPG, thats it, no more no better, no matter how much I drove like grandma, thats was all she would do.

The other day I made an interstate trip, I was trying for good mileage, had the cruise set on 70 MPH most of the way but had to accelerate to 75 MPH a few times to pass some slow trucks and to get out of a bind. Later in my trip I encountered strong winds, that trip netted 18.23 MPG.

On the way back with my 4000 pound camper and a bunch of camping stuff, I only got about 11.7 MPG, that was headed back up the hills and mountains.
 
I've got multiple trucks I've tuned that are getting 21-22 mpg at 70(mine being one of them), even have somebody in a duraburb getting 23 mpg. And this is real hand calculated mpg, not lie o meter numbers. The problem is many go by there lie o meter which many tuners purposely make read higher than actual instead of hand calculating it.

As to injectors, ONLY use genuine Bosch. Make sure it is a Bosch certified dealer you are buying from, don't just take there word for it as there are several sellers out there claiming yo be that are not. Do not look for cheap ones as you get what you pay for, and bad injectors are a leading cause of crankshaft failures.
 
It would be an ugly long post, but, finding "virgin new" injectors is difficult vs. "rebuilt". "Gen New" means they, Bosch, reused the body and are selling a rebuilt part with the word "new" in it. At least that's some of what I ran into with a set for the Cummins.

IMO there are a lot of "updates" new injectors have that rebuilt doesn't get. It shows in the price tag as well.
 
WarWagon said:
It would be an ugly long post, but, finding "virgin new" injectors is difficult vs. "rebuilt". "Gen New" means they, Bosch, reused the body and are selling a rebuilt part with the word "new" in it. At least that's some of what I ran into with a set for the Cummins.

IMO there are a lot of "updates" new injectors have that rebuilt doesn't get. It shows in the price tag as well.
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This isn't a cummins, virgin new duramax injectors are not that hard to find. If you've got the dough, they are out there. And the majority of the Bosch remans are re-used bodies with everything else being new.
 
Definitely get the CTS2 (or the new CTS3). No need for external gauges with this and it makes scanning the display easier as there is one location versus many (for those who go with dedicated gauges).

And toward getting better fuel economy, avoid offroad tires and get good Load E highway tires. M+S A/T tires are really nice for all around driving to include getting in the dirt.
 
JayTheCPA said:
Definitely get the CTS2 (or the new CTS3). No need for external gauges with this and it makes scanning the display easier as there is one location versus many (for those who go with dedicated gauges).

And toward getting better fuel economy, avoid offroad tires and get good Load E highway tires. M+S A/T tires are really nice for all around driving to include getting in the dirt.
Click to expand...
The next set of tires that goes on My truck will not be growlers. These was on when I bought the truck and no more oversize tires or growlers for me. They just suck.
 
I responded on the other thread.

Dash display Haywire after parking on steep incline 45 degrees.

I parked on about a 40 degree or 45 degree incline for about 30 minutes. Upon leaving none of the gauges in the cluster work 4 tachometer speedometer fuel oil temp Etc and the lights for abs airbag and four-wheel drive system are in a constant state of flutter not really all but flashing on...
www.thetruckstop.us
 
I have temporarily solved the issue but I have made two mistakes. First I should have taken a photo and a short 3 second video of what was happening with the lights that were pulsing and the gauge cluster not working. Second when I did take the dash apart I should have simply unplugged the instrument cluster and plugged it back in just to see what would happen with this single step.
At the time I was thinking that if I had it unplugged I would go ahead and disassemble the instrument cluster since I was this far - should have considered the shortest quickest option.
I now have all of my gauges working again although you can now hear a slight noise from the Step Up Motors when you turn the key to the on position and I think they didn't like being fiddled with. Also I no longer have bright strong backlighting through the whole instrument cluster - it's only bright in the center and dim on the right and out on the left. Seems kind strange.
 
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