I'm Doing an EGR Delete and have a question

[new2diesel08]

I was recently tuning up my trucks ( cleaning the air filter, new fuel filter, changing the oil sort of stuff ). I had some extra time on my hands and desided to block off the EGR.

After I did it I noticed a loss of power. The truck does not sound as throaty when I hit the pedal either.

I noticed the baro Sensor is connected to the same solinoid that the EGR was connected. I know ( or think ) the Baro measures manifold pressure and tells the computer to ad fuel.

How I did the EGR delete was just a simple plate under the egr and bolted the EGR back on top of it. I plugged the Vacuum line off.

Is this right?

Do I Need to some how connect the Baro back to the manifold so it can operate correctly?

My truck has a GL4 chip from Heath and no codes are being thrown.

Do I have to reset the computer to let it go through a relearn?

I was going to pull the manifold off today to install the J code gaskets that block the egr tunnel to eliminate the heat. But now I am thinking it ran stronger with the EGR hooked up.

I know something is weird here. Please help.

 

[bk95td]

You really need to fill out your signature. There are differences in years. The 94-95s will work fine with the egr vacuum hose just plugged. 96+ is different. You will need to block the exhaust hole in the center with a frost plug of the right diameter also. I think with what you did it is getting full exhaust into the intake. A "F" intake manifold is a better solution.

 

[new2diesel08]

Sorry I thought I filled it out quick. Yeah I is a 96. I have an f Upper I was going to put on along with changing the lower intake gaskets that have the EGR tunnels blocked.

Should I add a plug in the lower intake anyway or along with it?

 

[matuva]

As you get Heath GL4 chip, I bet the EGR delete has been made in the tuning process. You don't need EGR anymore, and the fact you have no code after plugging off the EGR line tends to confirm that.

Yes, putting a plate under the egr and bolting the EGR back on top of it is fine, make sure you get no leak and your EGR gasket is good (inside).


So, I think the best will be a full F intake. You already get the top, you should find the bottom at salvage or fleabay.

 

[Turbine Doc]

Since you have a chip then all EGR function can go away, in interim just put a .050" piece of sheet metal between EGR & upper intake, this will blank EGR flow to engine, when using the S upper, best to get a complete F upper & lower, if you run a S lower and the EGR balnks blow you will constant flow EGR and not know it except for crappy performance

If you shift to a mech TM boost control, then all vac system can be eliminated and a complete F intake system can be applied, unless you you live in a emissions check location that will be looking for EGR devices? Am I correct that 8th digit of the VIN is letter S? though there are some EGRd F trucks as well, S or F needs to be in your signature as well.

 

[new2diesel08]

I just found another F intake so I will be going with the full intake set up.

Now I got bigger problems. My t-stat housing heater core line cracked in the housing and when I was trying to extract it the whole housing cracked. Now I need one of those.

I was just about to back it out. I was saying to myself. I'd rather take the housing off and drill and tap it then risk cracking it. No sooner did this run through my head then I heard and POP and knew what it was.

Does anyone know if it is a single t-stat housing or dual on a 96?

 

[matuva]

mine a 1996, is a twin T-stat.
See my photo album

 

[new2diesel08]

Just checked your Pics 1500. Thanks..... Mine is the same So it is a duel t-stat.
I guess my search begins.

Nice gauges by the way. did you just change the bulbs?

 

[matuva]

Thanks
Gauges in the pillar are from Glowshift. 7 colors are available at your choice (change have them red one day, green another, blue, etc...)
In the dash cluster, I replaced the 6 157 bulbs with blue 12volts leds, and voila !

About your T-stats housing, as your twin housing is to be replaced, may be it should be better to put the single T-Stat housing ?

You already have the HO waterpump, and it said that the single T-stat performs better than double.

I'll try to find the thread and link to it.

In both case, take that opportunity to get rid of this crappy prone to rot heater line connector. Replace it with one for the 6.2 and reconnect the heater line using a piece of hose and clamps. Peace of mind then.

 

[new2diesel08]

So your saying I can replace the Dual T-stat with the single T-stat housing?

I hope this is what your saying. the single ones seem much easier to find.

 

[Acesneights1]

Actually I think the 96 wp is "better" but the best one is the 99+ no ?
There is alot of specualtion whether the 2 stat is better than the single. Heath believes the single is better and IIRC Kennedy totes the dual. I had both and didn't notice a difference to be quite honest. If you use the single you MUST use a factory gm thermostat.

 

[matuva]

So your saying I can replace the Dual T-stat with the single T-stat housing?

I hope this is what your saying. the single ones seem much easier to find.

Yes, single T-stat in single housing.
Be careful, there's one setup with the neck going to the driver, inside engine bay. This is the one you need to find if you want to re-use your stock upper hose.
If you install the first pattern, with neck pointing outwards, to the radiator, you may have to buy the hose which fit too.

Actually I think the 96 wp is "better" but the best one is the 99+ no ?
There is alot of specualtion whether the 2 stat is better than the single. Heath believes the single is better and IIRC Kennedy totes the dual. I had both and didn't notice a difference to be quite honest. If you use the single you MUST use a factory gm thermostat.

X2, ACDelco (GM) for the peace of mind. Use a 190° ACDelco.

Kenny, what the hell is happening on the situation your avatar displays ? What are they doing ? just curious :smile5:

 

[ak diesel driver]

From the parts book at Napa the change from single to dual was mid year as they list both for 96.

 

[matuva]

heater hose connector: ACDELCO Part # 1533220 {#12597484, 1530569, 15963984} made of steel, old pattern. You have to use a piece of hose to connect the aluminum hose.
heater hose connector(starting 1994 if I'm correct) : DORMAN Part # 800401 {OE Solutions #15622861, 15739936, 24503681, 24503682, 88891732, 88891735}
made of steel now instead of this crap "stuff" prone to rot.

Find them at Rockauto.

 

[new2diesel08]

Thank you for all you replies. I think I will be able to get the part I need now.

So back to the EGR Question. Does the computer do a relearn after you disconnect the EGR.

And secondly. One of the sensors... the one with the vacuum hose attached to the fire wall. Won't that sensor loose the signal it needs if I remove the entire Vac pump setup?

 

[treegump]

I wish I had seen this earlier...hm...

 

[Steeveo]

I unhooked my vacuum line for the EGR and plugged the end off at the solenoid. I did this when it acted up and was pouring out the black smoke from the exhaust. Never had any issues except for the code and the check engine light being on all the time. The EGR is still on the engine and never blocked off anything inside the intake.

 

[Acesneights1]

I'm curious about that myself. I disconected mine but I had a Heath chip. If you disconnect the egr(by leaving everything hooked up but with vac hose plugged) with the PCM notice ?

 

[Turbine Doc]

Thank you for all you replies. I think I will be able to get the part I need now.

So back to the EGR Question. Does the computer do a relearn after you disconnect the EGR.

And secondly. One of the sensors... the one with the vacuum hose attached to the fire wall. Won't that sensor loose the signal it needs if I remove the entire Vac pump setup?

If you have a F program in your chip it doesn't know it has any EGR equipment, so you can unplug it, what kind of boost control are you running, since you are running with a home brew TM your entire vac system can go away, leave all solenoids connected even though they are vacuum free as it keeps the trons happy having proper gnd paths.

 

[Turbine Doc]

I unhooked my vacuum line for the EGR and plugged the end off at the solenoid. I did this when it acted up and was pouring out the black smoke from the exhaust. Never had any issues except for the code and the check engine light being on all the time. The EGR is still on the engine and never blocked off anything inside the intake.

Okay if you have a OBD-II S PCM (96+ yrs) you can't just disconnect EGR vac like on a OBD-I, OBD-II the baro sensor on the firewall monitors applied & vented vac to give EGR position feedback to the PCM, so big loss or no change in vac is what is causing this to code & smoke, as WG control also part of this system.

For OBD-II S guys wanting to defeat EGR you have to put shim between intake & EGR or plug inside the center port with freeze plug so EGR vacuum functions just no EGR flows when blanked off.

Another way is to go F intake and factory F PCM of same vintage year & axle ratio, and 2wd/4wd depending how you are equipped and defeat EGR function or get a reflash/chip tweaked to your VIN,

EGR is programmed out then no EGR looked for or lack of it to be compensated for, there will be some adaptive learn with new program to match trans & other performance variables unique to your truck, but once EGR is missing from the tables in a reflash or F stock PCM, entire EGR system can go away.