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I'm back with a keeper. .

I have HIDs not sure how powerful but the lenses are plastic tinted pieces of crap. Good for the trash.
 
On the fan clutch/ waterpump that is the old style. At some point in the future you are going to want to replace the waterpump, fan clutch, and fan. Hopefully someone here smarter than me can post a link to a thread teaching the part numbers and what is involved. The nonsense involved with the 6.5 water pump vs the gasser gm engines is ridiculous. Twice the work.
When you get to that job, there are several things to do while it is that far apart. Consider new timing gears/chain, defiantly do a new front seal, harmonic balancer, good time to pull radiator and clean stack, etc.
 
Well as I mentioned last week I ordered a PMD kit from leroys and I just got it today. Come Monday I'm going to go get me some rotella 20w50 oil and a wix filter and do my first oil change. I found some Reciepts in the truck and the truck had a complete brake job a little over a year ago. Including servicing rear drums, new shoes, new front rotors and pads and new hydra booster if that is what it is called.

This week I will also be ordering the SS braided oil cooler lines and the leroys lift pump relay to start.

As Will suggested this will be my build thread so as I buy parts and I do work to her I will update this thread with info, time taken on jobs, tools used and pics. Maybe one day in the future this thread will be useful to a fellow 6.5 owner. It will also be cool to digitally document my progress so I can look back at all I've done.
 
It looks to me like you have the new water pump already. Could you get a picture with a flash. Sure looks like a screw on clutch to me?
Also you have the upgraded air box already too (K47) thats good.
 
tanman_2006 said:
20-50 is a little thick for an engine that doesn't have blow-by.

Just use 15w40, I'm not a fan of rotella but to each his own.
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As I've mentioned earlier in this thread. This will be my first diesel that I want to keep and fix up. With that in mind please understand I don't know which is the best oil to use. If you aren't a fan of rotella please tell me which oil you prefer and why. It will be helpful to me. As for me saying I'll run 20w50. I thought these diesel run hot so a thicker weight oil under high heat will not break down as easy. Correct me if I'm wrong or explain to me if that can hurt my engine please.
 
I have used Amsoil 5W30 heavy duty diesel engine oil in all of my 6.5's and 6.2's.

When in doubt call Amsoil tech. If you plan on having this vehicle a long time, I would run Amsoil. I am always willing to pay a premium for a used vehicle that has been run on a good Synthetic engine oil for most of it's life.

I would also invest in a FS2500 or Amsoil bypass filter. I install a T in the return line from my engine oil cooler to feed the bypass filters and return to the engine oil fill neck.

I also remove the turbo muffler on the front of the engine. Do they have any practical purpose?
 
jrsavoie said:
I have used Amsoil 5W30 heavy duty diesel engine oil in all of my 6.5's and 6.2's.

When in doubt call Amsoil tech. If you plan on having this vehicle a long time, I would run Amsoil. I am always willing to pay a premium for a used vehicle that has been run on a good Synthetic engine oil for most of it's life.

I would also invest in a FS2500 or Amsoil bypass filter. I install a T in the return line from my engine oil cooler to feed the bypass filters and return to the engine oil fill neck.

I also remove the turbo muffler on the front of the engine. Do they have any practical purpose?
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I don't know what kind of oil was used in her before and if she hasn't been running Synthetic oil for most of her life can I start using it now at 197k?

What's the benefit of installing a FS2500 or Amsoil bypass filter? What purpose does it serve? Also will me a novice DIY mechanic be able to do this by myself? I'm pretty sure I can do it but I would need to know how to do it and make sure I have the proper tools.

Turbo muffler on front of the engine! I didn't even know there was one! What do you remove and put a block off plate? Any pics for me to see so I know its location?
 
If it's running hot then you have a problem that needs addressed and 20w50 won't help. That thick of oil will likely cause bearing damage.

I run Mobil Delvac 1300. Rotella has a habit of burning off too quick in all of my vehicles.

If you tow frequently the oil change interval on standard 15 40 is 2000-2500 miles. Otherwise as a DD and occasional towing you can use standard maintenance schedule.
 
Oil viscosity is for the bearing clearances designed. And this engine specs are 10W-30 or 15W-40 viscosity. Just as important is additive package for contaminates of soot mostly but other byproducts too. Run a Diesel rated oil. The "weight" of oil won't change its "breakdown" strength. Basically contaminates screw with viscosity and additive package to deal with contaminates gets consumed. Synthetic has better thermal viscosity stability. But these engines are sooty so extra filtration is needed to take advantage of synthetic oil life.

The turbo silencer is a little tube off the intake between filter and turbo iirc that dead ends. I think its suppose to quiet whistle and maybe help hold vacuum for the CDR I don't know. It doesn't hurt performance either way I don't think.
 
Best practice would be to change oil from an oil analysis. But IMO the next best thing is go by how much fuel is used. Miles can vary with how you drive and how long you idle. What temp the oil experiences has a big effect too. The hotter the oil the shorter the life. Blowby and cylinder wall cleaning is what mostly contaminates oil. So in my mind the amount of fuel burned is what contaminates the oil. So I change my oil about every 200 gallons of fuel bought. This correlates to usage pretty good. Heavy towing would see 11-13 mpg ~ 2400 miles and easy driving 18 mpg = 3600 miles. I wouldn't go over 5000 mile oil changes without analysis. I like Mobil Delvac and Delo too. Fresh oil is better (buy from high turn over stores that rotate stock and shake it up before putting it in as oil left on the shelf some additives will settle to bottom.
 
I buy Mobil Delvac in bulk for my truck with blow by.

If it was my truck and there wasn't any blow by I'd be running Synthetic Mobil 1 or Delo 5/40 and a wix XP filter at a minimum. Preferably amsoil (I prefer 5/40 with our temps) and the amsoil dual by pass.

I did 50k mile intervals on my 95 K1500 for 200k miles. It is still going but we picked 25k intervals so my hired hand (he bought the truck) didn't have to keep up with sending in oil samples. It has over 320k on it now.
 
My truck doesn't run hot. What I meant was I've hear that the 6.5 engines get hotter then others. So no 20w50. So it either 10w-30 or 15w-40. Do many of you run synthetic oil?
 
6.5TD.Club said:
Do you sell them Leroy? I also need the SS oil cooler lines and lift pump relay.
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I can get fan but by the time I touch it your better off looking online.

Oil cooler hoses and relay I can do. Just go to my site and order them when your ready.
 
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