• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

I'm back! In a different forum this time.

Build the trans with a good converter, and lets get you a nice daily driver tune and see how you feel about the power. My BURB is actually pretty light on it's feet with my tune I'm running now, and it's just a daily driver street tune. You do have to think twice before mashing the go pedal with it like it is now. It is a bit different having to worry about going sideways at 65.
 
Update time: about 4k miles since I bought it. Only issue is occasionally get what acts like an air leak, only on cool mornings (hasn't been cold yet) it will buck or miss a little under acceleration. Haven't been able to find any fuel coming out, so idk where airs getting in. Other than that, it has been great only averaging about 16 mpg, best was almost 19.

So far all I've done is front brakes, calipers and hoses, rear bumper and a 15k Valley Extreme hitch (just don't trust the factory junk). I added a Banks Six Gun with Speedloader, run it on 5, 3 when towing. Afraid to try 6 because I'm trying to keep the hp numbers below where the tranny can get hurt, although Banks website says nothing about harming the tranny. Itching to try it. I just ordered a ppe boost valve, seems like I need to manage the boost better. Truck goes ok up to about 15-18 lbs, then it goes like hell to 23 lbs. at certain points it is alarmingly fast, but it's very uneven. I've got a Banks monster intake and gauges, waiting for the exhaust I ordered a couple weeks ago. Diamond eye 4 inch turbo back w/o muffler.

Also bought but haven't installed yet, 3 inch torsion keys, 2 inch rear shackle lift, and 285/75/16 Fierce Attitude MTs. Am I missing anything?
 
If the boost valve helps I'll take it to the track, see what's really going on. So far I've killed a late model Mustang Gt, although to be fair it was just a short run from a green light to a highway merge, and he didn't go for it until about the time I started making boost...at which point I walked him. I think side by side 1/4 mile he'd beat me while I was trying to get it spooled up and out of first gear. Got a BMW, no idea what it was, just a kid who thought it was fast. Most recently was a Toyota Tundra Iforce v8, had my windows down so I could hear he was really going for it, but he had nothing for me. I had two canoes on the roof, too, combined with stock appearance, stock exhaust, I think he really didn't know what hit him.
 
When it does that, shut it off and try pumping the primer, if it is to hard to prime, not air leak. If it does pump a couple times then clear up look for leak right at the primer first. If at the primer you won't see
Fuel, it is sucking air while running- snug up fasteners. On the primer ring.
 
If it's the primer there is a filter head rebuild kit on the market. Do you have a lift pump? Could be starving it under hard throttle

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
Will check the primer. It's not hard acceleration, it's any acceleration, I have to really limp it at just off idle. But it doesn't do it all the time, idk why. It has a brand new AC Delco metal fuel filter on it.
 
so still havingthe problem in the mornings. Im not sure what to think. It wont do it at night, after sitting all day at work, sometimes for 18 hours.It only does it in the morning when its cold, and it wont come out of it. Even if I let it warm up for 15 minutes, get out and pump the primer, I cant shake the missing. But after work its gone. The primer does let me pump it a few times before it gets hard, yesterday I pumped it and then cracked the bleeder screw, got a little puff of air but it didnt change anything, bucked and sputtered all the way to work. I really dont want it to be injectors. It starts fine every time, no smoking ever. Only thing I can think of is something is bleeding down ovenight as it gets cooler. Like a seal shrinking and drawing air in. I replaced the fuel filter last weekend, only had 4k on it with clean fuel (I only buy from one trusted source) changed from ACDelco and tried a Wix. No change. I couldnt see anything wrong with the gaskets, even checked the one on the bleeder screw. Someone suggested I change the bleeder screw and its gasket. I've been trying to get it in the shop where I work to have it scanned, but they're always too busy. Im about to take it to someone elses shop.
Any idea where I can find the filter rebuild kit?
 
also,it idles fine, only misses when its just off idle, tip in I think they call it. Just giving it a little throttle to pick up a little speed or to maintain speed. let off it goes away, or if you give it a bunch of throttle it goes away too.
 
MERCHANT sells the filter head rebuild kit. Do you have some way to monitor rail pressure and balance rates? If so it would be nice to know what they are when it is doing it.
 
P0087 low rail pressure. Seemed better but I threw two today but I hammered it at a 10000'altitude. So that's part of the issue. I'm gonna look deeper into it when I get back from Colorado

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
been trying to get it scanned at work for a month at least, but the d-bag service manager wont get it in. Going to take it to another garage this week. Pretty discouraged, I changed the fuel filter last week, yesterday I replaced every o-ring in the filter head with a kit I got from Nicktane. Didn't fix the problem. Can't understand why I can't find anything out about it, a 12 year old truck someone must have had the same problem. I have no check engine lights but it must be storing codes when it's running bad, right? I expect anybody who looks at it is just going to say it's an lb7 so it needs injectors, but I really don't think it does. It doesn't smoke at idle like I've seen with other lb7s with bad injectors, it really acts like its getting air in the system overnight. Maybe I've got a bad fuel line, I did have a brake line that rotted out, could be the same thing happening to a steel section of fuel line, I think. How the heck would you find that if it's not leaking fuel out?
 
Are you familiar with the smoke pro from redline? On hard-to-find leaks I've had to drain the entire system out of injector lines, pump,etc. so they can be filled with smoke and tested like you would an evap system. There are ways to make your own for pretty cheap and it is a handy tool to have for more than just this. It would take a little time but I guarantee you you will know whether or not there is a leak anywhere in the system.
 
If you had a bad or rotted fuel line, you should be seeing and smelling diesel on the ground or along the chassis. Your losing prime somewhere. Have you tried taking it to a parts store and see if they can scan it for you? Get the injector balance rates checked to see if it is a bad injector. If it is a bad injector, you should have diesel fuel in the oil.
 
Last edited:
Detroit Dan said:
been trying to get it scanned at work for a month at least, but the d-bag service manager wont get it in. Going to take it to another garage this week. Pretty discouraged, I changed the fuel filter last week, yesterday I replaced every o-ring in the filter head with a kit I got from Nicktane. Didn't fix the problem. Can't understand why I can't find anything out about it, a 12 year old truck someone must have had the same problem. I have no check engine lights but it must be storing codes when it's running bad, right? I expect anybody who looks at it is just going to say it's an lb7 so it needs injectors, but I really don't think it does. It doesn't smoke at idle like I've seen with other lb7s with bad injectors, it really acts like its getting air in the system overnight. Maybe I've got a bad fuel line, I did have a brake line that rotted out, could be the same thing happening to a steel section of fuel line, I think. How the heck would you find that if it's not leaking fuel out?
Click to expand...
just a thought, have you checked the FICIM?
 
It spent the last week in the shop, they replaced the two fuel lines that go to the filter head because they said they were dry-cracked. Not nearly bad enough for a leak. Then they replaced the air/water sensor at the bottom of the filter because they said it was a little wet. No change. They also checked all the fuel lines from the tank forward and pressurized the system to look for a leak. A couple weeks ago I had a D-max expert scan it and check all the balance rates and found nothing wrong, he said the motor and the fuel system is in fantastic shape. Only thing he could find at all questionable was the #3 injector line was a little rusty and slightly wet. I replaced it, along with the sealing washers on the FICM. No change. They agree with me that it acts like it's getting air in the system when it sits overnight and gets cold. Runs perfect when its warm, will run perfect after you drive it for 20 minutes and it works out, doesn't make a difference how long you let it idle first. I've let it run a half hour and it still does it. Always starts right up though.
Now they're talking about maybe needing a regulator or cp3. I can't believe nobody can fix this stupid truck. Usually when you have a problem it's common and people have seen it before.

I hate this truck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top