dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
#1 is actually not a relay but a fuse for the fuel pump.
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On my 1994 the fusible link going to the load center, or whatever that's called, is up by the battery.Guys jump in here- I can’t remember where the fuseable link is on the truck right now. Make sure if it was at the starter that fuseable link went back in not just wire.
I think fuseable link was at the battery but that’s how my rig is- I can’t remember what year gm trucks had them by the starter….
Side track I know but just because he mentioned it…
This is correctYour not understanding, those wires provide power to the fuse block in the cab. If everything else works but the door locks then the problem is in the cab from the fuse block to the power locks.
Have you checked the fuse for the door locks?
Yes I have checked the fuse and swapped with the known functioning other 30a fuse just to be sure.Your not understanding, those wires provide power to the fuse block in the cab. If everything else works but the door locks then the problem is in the cab from the fuse block to the power locks.
Have you checked the fuse for the door locks?
I'll look closer into it. I replaced the switch. Can I test the actuator with a battery charger? I'm not hearing anything when I push the switch up or down. Could one bad actuator effect the passenger lock as well? Or vice verca? I ran a simple light tester on the contacts of both switches and not seeing any power at either the switches.There should be a fuse in the block under the dash for the door locks. get you a test light connected to a good ground on the cab. then probe both sides of every fuse in the panel with the key on and with the running lights on. look for anything that does not have power on one or both sides. there are diagrams on the web that depict what fuse slot goes to what. most if the time the fuse that powers the door locks also will power something else like the windows. the windows should be on small circuit breakers in the fuse block. if the windows power up and down, then your issue will be a switch or the harness inside the door. usually in the drivers door. the way they are wired, if the drivers door has issues, none of the other doors will work.
There should be power at the input on the switches all of the timeYes I have checked the fuse and swapped with the known functioning other 30a fuse just to be sure.
I'll look closer into it. I replaced the switch. Can I test the actuator with a battery charger? I'm not hearing anything when I push the switch up or down. Could one bad actuator effect the passenger lock as well? Or vice verca? I ran a simple light tester on the contacts of both switches and not seeing any power at either the switches.
I want to look into it more on my next day off. Thanks for your help I'll update you and let you know what happened.With the ignition key in the run position, there should be power to at least one of the terminals of the harness, or switch when the harness is plugged into it.
If possible, get a 12 volt source to the battery terminal of the switch, then activate the switch.
If it then functions be looking at the harness for a broken wire, especially where the wires are constantly bending within the sheath between the door and the body.
I don't have any power at the switches. I want to get a power supply and check it out a little more closely. Then I'll start tracing from there. I'll update you on how it went.There should be power at the input on the switches all of the time