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Ideal 6.5

You can get enough power out of a 6.5 that you do not need a DMax, so if you could get a completely overhauled 6.5 with all the reliability we know about built in for $6000 to drop in, to me that would be worth more than attempting to jam a DMax into a truck. Or you can buy a running 6.5 truck for $3000
 
To build a 6.5 on a Budgit can be a Dicey Proposition (aske me how I know this)

A good solid 599 or 929 Block that is crack free (bottom end) or has had minimal cracks that were/are repaired with Lock and stitch inserts.

Beware of the decks. Some clowns will deck one side only and not mark the things. (ask me how I know this one)

Use a set of CCH heads. I am done with used heads. Just too many issues and they dont show up until after its all together and running.

The scat crank is a good investment. The forged cranks from Peninsular (AMG) are great but $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

You can use used pistons if the bore clearance is still good. (keep them no more than .0065" clearance for optimal life)

New timing chain. Fresh lifters. Gaskets and seals, fresh bearings.

STD bearings usually work fine on most cranks (stock stuff thats not been ground)

.0025" clearance is a good spot.

A non squirt block oil pump is fine on the 929 and 599 blocks but you can use the HO pump from a squirter block.

DO NOT use a non squirter oil pump on a squirter block.

Cams can be used from almost anything in the 6.2/6.5 lineup as they are all the same.

Have fun

Missy
 
Thanks all for your input. Well the motor as far as I know up till now anyway thats in my 95 seems to be in good shape at 148K probably because its a N/A less heat and pounding the bottom end. The truck was owned by the state of Virginia for 15 yrs. and far as I know the only thing that was changed was the IP at 83K according to Carfax.

I'm just looking for a motor for replacement purpose's when the time comes .And of all the 6.5's floating around I just wanted to know which yr. would be the one to pick up.

Here's a question for you, was there a military or industrial 6.2/6.5 made that would be totally incompatible with our trucks? I know there will be some bolt on parts that wont be usable but I'm talking about the main assembly, thanks.

Mark
 
The military engines have 24 volt injection pumps. Everything else interchanges pretty much. The ips can be converted to 12 volts.
 
Sorry I should have said OTS..

And I'm sure that is all Custom machined, at least with the 24v you can actually buy the accessory plate? to make the switch to a P pump......
 
The military engines have 24 volt injection pumps. Everything else interchanges pretty much. The ips can be converted to 12 volts.


So the military couldn't even get the General to build these motors any stronger even for them, as many vehicles and spare's that they bought off GM.

Mark
 
As soon as american general got the rights for the 6.5 they redesigned it to fix what gm ignored for all the years of production. That engine is called the optimiser 6500. Gm actually bought them from american general for replacement engines after their stock was depleted.
 
As soon as american general got the rights for the 6.5 they redesigned it to fix what gm ignored for all the years of production. That engine is called the optimiser 6500. Gm actually bought them from american general for replacement engines after their stock was depleted.


So has any of the American General 6.5's come up for auction yet BK?

Mark
 
The 6.2 and 6.5 is simply a bean counter engine finally fixed by AG to hold up a little better. It was made for MPG and to be cheap above and beyond anything else. No intercooler even when Dodge put one on. It did not have to last over the 100K warranty some came with, most had 3/36K.

Like this is how you become the low bidder for gov't contracts, eh?

Now the 6.5 is just a bored over 6.2. The pistons are thinner to make the rotating mass the same. The 6.2 heads are different and you are best to use 6.5 heads on a 6.2 for injector clearance on the turbo manifold. But you can jam it toghether with 6.2 heads pretty or not it will work. (Cept the course thread injector heads.) Thicker pistons take just a little longer to burn through...
 
The 6.2 and 6.5 is simply a bean counter engine finally fixed by AG to hold up a little better. It was made for MPG and to be cheap above and beyond anything else. No intercooler even when Dodge put one on. It did not have to last over the 100K warranty some came with, most had 3/36K.

Like this is how you become the low bidder for gov't contracts, eh?

Now the 6.5 is just a bored over 6.2. The pistons are thinner to make the rotating mass the same. The 6.2 heads are different and you are best to use 6.5 heads on a 6.2 for injector clearance on the turbo manifold. But you can jam it toghether with 6.2 heads pretty or not it will work. (Cept the course thread injector heads.) Thicker pistons take just a little longer to burn through...


Thanks for the walk through on the 6.2/6.5 WW looks like GM had all their top design engineers at the drafting table when they put this puppy together. They did such a great job on it they left the Japanese build the next diesel.


Mark
 
There are a few of the GEP engines on auction. Some times they are mis labled as GM. If you look at where they were purchaced from it tells the story. Most of them i've spotted were at FrenchCamp CA. There has been a few at other locations.
 
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