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I read somewhere to NOT use a magnetic oil pan heater

J

jrsavoie

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I read somewhere to NOT use a magnetic oil pan heater

Is there a specific reason to NOT use a magnetic pan heater?

How many watts should I go with a pan heater? 200?
 
Watching for opinions, logic, or mine anyway, would think starting a engine with warm easier flowing oil would get lubrication everywhere faster.
 
All thaT is available locally is the magnetic 200 watt.

Does anybody know the part number for the fitting that goes to the thermostat?

Wife is leaving for parts and Napa didn't have a part number.

OR It seems I remember there being a fix to eliminate that part altogether and using a hose barb or something. I didn't find results for that when I searched
 
I know that Kennedy diesel sells 2 sizes, one is too big for a 6.5 and probably for DMax pan. Headed out to PO with to mail your Cooler.
 
jrsavoie said:
I read somewhere to NOT use a magnetic oil pan heater. . .
Click to expand...

Read the same sort of stuff. Reasoning was that it cooked off the oil (just parroting).

Have read opposing commentary as to whether heating (just) the oil or block is better than the other.

Am in the camp that heating both the coolant and oil is the best solution as long as the oil heater is not too strong. I'd go with as low a wattage as possible as the goal is just to heat the oil a bit and not get it up to operating temp; bonus is to figure out what wattage oil heater raises the oil temperature at the same rate that the 600W block heater raises the temperature of the block.

From a convenience standpoint, do not see the need for a oil heater here in the lower 48 when using synthetic oil as the stuff flows rather well at cold temps and heats up quickly when passing through a warmed block.
 
jrsavoie said:
All thaT is available locally is the magnetic 200 watt.

Does anybody know the part number for the fitting that goes to the thermostat?

Wife is leaving for parts and Napa didn't have a part number.

OR It seems I remember there being a fix to eliminate that part altogether and using a hose barb or something. I didn't find results for that when I searched
Click to expand...

Either or. Barb on mine. 1/2NPT-5/8 rubber hose.

The OE piece is available in the 'HELP' parts section. Dunno if they are any better than OE. I do know a barb, hose and a pair of hose clamps works.
 
Cold weather starting is a normal thing up here.
--Block heaters: normally 600w, can get up to 1000w. I had one of each; depending on ambient temps and length of warm up time needed, I could then use 600w, 1000w, or 1600w.
--Circulating coolant heaters. Most big equipment uses these. Come in various wattage and configurations, up to 2500w. Advantage is they circulate hot water through everything, and you get warm air on start up with a good one. I never liked these on small vehicles, because only the small ones fit well, and they aren't that good. I never put one on my 6.5 because cooling is an issue too, and I didn't want another variable to cope with. would suggest bypassing them in the summer, hooking them back up in fall. some of these can be diesel or propane powered, which is handy when a current bush is unavailable.
--Oil pan heaters: Electric, magnetic or glue on, come in 100-600w versions. I like the glue on ones (have seen magnetic ones get knocked off), but have always used these in conjunction with block heater. Drawback is, only warms oil, so increases crank speed, but does nothing to enhance ignition of fuel. I like them because cold oil takes time to get to all the moving parts.
--Heated indoor parking. My favourite!
 
The ones I'm referring to are usually orange and most are peel and stick but I usually silicone those on as well. Have seen as high as 1000 watt ones but they're pretty big
 
Yep, those ones! I always made sure the oil pan was REALLY clean, and used to use seal-all around the edges.
 
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