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I need air condition help

n8in8or

I never met a project I didn’t like
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Kalamazoo, MI
This doesn’t seem like the best spot for this thread, but I don’t see a better. Plus this one gets higher traffic so selfishly I’ll roll with it…

For 2 weeks now I’ve been trying to get the AC on my 94 K3500 extended cab working. Over the winter I put all new AC components in it. Hoses, condenser, evaporator, compressor, orifice tube, everything. The compressor was a 4 Seasons R4 new compressor. 2 weeks ago I was ready to charge the AC finally. I started putting a can of R134 in it and before I could finish that can the clutch and/or drive belt were slipping because the high side pressure got so high. It was high 80s outside that day. The engine was at idle, I had the windows open, fan on high and the recirc door open. I ended up smoking that compressor - it would still turn, but not very freely. Later I found some black junk under the pressure switch. I figured I had slugged the compressor.


So I ordered another new compressor, this time a new R4 UAC compressor. I flushed the hoses as well as back-flushed the evaporator through the line at the condenser (I didn’t remove that line from the evaporator because it’s hard to reach that fitting and it’s just an aluminum tube so i didn’t see a ton of benefit removing it. I flushed 1 quart of flush through the evaporator and .5 quart through each of the manifold hoses. I also ordered a new condenser from Rock Auto, but when it arrived it wasn’t the one I wanted - it was the thin core, so I used my low mile one from the Tahoe that already had a variable orifice valve in it. I attempted to charge it again a week after the first attempt. I went through the same process as before, but tried to be more aware since I had a problem once already. Not even a full can in and I’m having excessive high side pressures again!! This time I shut it down before killing the compressor (I think). Well damn!! My only thought was the VOV must have been stuck from sitting dormant for a couple years.

So here we go again. I overnight a new condenser from Autozone so I can get back to working sooner. However after a couple hours of reflection I decide to get a new compressor as well, just to be sure things are fresh. I decide to order a scroll-style R4 compressor by GPD. I heard they’re less capable at low rpm than a true R4 so I ordered an oversized one for a Sub with rear AC. This time I flushed the hoses manually with alcohol until they ran clear and then flushed them 2 more times. I back-flushed the evap and lower line with 2 quarts of flush. I took out the orifice tube that came in the condenser and swapped it for the one that came in the GPD compressor kit just so I knew what it was…..good thing I did! The one in the condenser didn’t have an o-ring on it! I just got it all together and once again I have crazy high pressures, not even 1 can in!!

To recap: 3 different compressors, 3 different orifice tubes and 3 different condensers and still stupid high pressures on the high side. The only thing I haven’t changed is the evaporator, which is the only thing that seems possible though I don’t know why it would be when I was able to flush through it. Oh, when I took it apart last time, I inspected the condenser to confirm it was the problem - there was a ton of oil sitting on top of the orifice tube. I pulled the tube out and tried blowing air through the condenser - it wouldn’t go through and when I removed the pressure oil would puke out at me.

C4C0697E-466F-40C5-857E-944FA0BCB672.jpeg

It’s been months since I did the first install, but I believe what I did for oil was put 3 ounces of PAG 150 in the compressor and then put the rest of the 8 ounces in the accumulator based on the information in the service manual.

2DC035DE-C473-4477-9C85-D79B38ACE22F.jpeg

The second time, the compressor had a sticker specifically saying to put 7oz in the compressor, so I did that and out 1oz in the accumulator, also PAG 150.

4F00EC41-692C-4A84-AE95-4D962C63D35A.jpeg

This last time it said to put about 60% in the compressor, so I did around 5 oz in the compressor and 3oz in the accumulator. This compressor said to use PAG 46, so that’s what I used.

What’s going on?? Do I have a fluke evaporator?

Here are the gauges with it running today. This is with only 5.6oz of R134. It’s 88 degrees out and 40% humidity.


F19FBA21-70EA-4453-83C3-16075B0EE109.png

I REALLY appreciate any assistance! We have a camping reservation 6/18 and if AC isn’t running it won’t be good…..

Thanks in advance.
 
With high pressure on one side sounds like a blockage somewhere. I had a similar situation only to discover that I was not paying attention to what I was doing and I put in the orifice tube backwards. After fixing that everything works great.
 
With high pressure on one side sounds like a blockage somewhere. I had a similar situation only to discover that I was not paying attention to what I was doing and I put in the orifice tube backwards. After fixing that everything works great.

I agree it seems like a blockage and the only thing left that seems reasonable is the evaporator, which sucks. I put all new parts in so I wouldn’t have these problems.

I put the orifice tube in with the white end with the cross pointing up, so that isn’t the problem. Thanks for chiming in.
 
I just unhooked the condenser and air blows through it fine. Air also blew through the lines fine. I replaced the orifice tube just to try it and have the system under vacuum right now.
 
My only thought was the VOV must have been stuck from sitting dormant for a couple years.

VOV plugged solid aka DOA... I had this very same problem with a handful of VOV's on my 1992 project truck: the VOV's were plugged solid. My AC machine charges on the high side so the problem of low side still in a vacuum with high side at pressure was pretty clear. Took awhile to figure out the VOV was DOA. I tried several and all DOA.

The R4 depends on a "2 stroke" oil refrigerant mix coming out of the accumulator for lube. They burn up from low refrigerant charge and in this case with no flow = no oil to the compressor.
 
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What port are you adding the 134a to?

That looks like A Lot of dye!

I’m adding it to the low side. I’ve been using the oil with the dye already added.

VOV plugged solid aka DOA... I had this very same problem with a handful of VOV's on my 1992 project truck: the VOV's were plugged solid. My AC machine charges on the high side so the problem of low side still in a vacuum with high side at pressure was pretty clear. Took awhile to figure out the VOV was DOA. I tried several and all DOA.

I’m not using VOV tubes anymore, all except the second time was just standard Black orifice tubes.

I just tried it again and same results. The refrigerant line was HOT pre-orifice tube and you could hear the refrigerant hissing loudly there. It sure seems like an orifice tube problem. I have a couple more new non-VOV ones I can try. I was also thinking about running it without an orifice tube, mostly to see if it pointed to a restriction in the evap instead. Is that a dumb idea?


84 degrees and 51% humidity.
91A696AE-64E0-423B-A44E-623671C2EA71.png
 
How hot is the condenser? If it's around 170 degrees it's simply overheating without enough airflow. What are the temps? Are the evaporator pipes about the same temp with a full charge? I assume you have a fan on the engine of some sort that's running?

Did the compressors ship with a full oil charge? Before this compressor install thinking about too much oil: Accumulator changed? Flush the system?
 
I pulled the tube out and tried blowing air through the condenser - it wouldn’t go through and when I removed the pressure oil would puke out at me.

This is not a good sign. I would think air should blow right through the condenser.
 
How hot is the condenser? If it's around 170 degrees it's simply overheating without enough airflow. What are the temps? Are the evaporator pipes about the same temp with a full charge? I assume you have a fan on the engine of some sort that's running?

The evap was ok to touch, but the pipe up to the orifice was too hot to touch for more than a second. The batteries were dead in my IR gun so I couldn’t get a temp. I have the electro-viscous clutch that AK Diesel Driver figured out and I have that commanded on so it’s drawing some air across the condenser. I haven’t been able to get a full charge in it because the first time I started charging the system it smoked the compressor before I had half a charge and the second time it was on its way to smoking it so I’m not trying to put any more refrigerant in until I see some more normal values. Oh, and the second time I went through this, it was only like 71 out, so it was barely warm enough to use and it was still carrying crazy high pressures.
 
Right. So that seemed to be the reason for failure the second time, but now I’m having the same symptoms and air blows through the condenser fine this time.
Ok, I must have missed the condenser swap by reading too fast.

I'm not sure about running without an orifice tube. With nothing to turn the liquid back to gas you could run the risk of liquid getting back to the compressor.
 
Ok, I must have missed the condenser swap by reading too fast.

I'm not sure about running without an orifice tube. With nothing to turn the liquid back to gas you could run the risk of liquid getting back to the compressor.

Ah, good call. I guess the first thing to try is getting a couple more tubes from other places tomorrow and continuing to try, and if that doesn’t work then I guess I start digging the evap out. I’m NOT looking forward to unhooking that dash again.
 
How hot is the condenser? If it's around 170 degrees it's simply overheating without enough airflow. What are the temps? Are the evaporator pipes about the same temp with a full charge? I assume you have a fan on the engine of some sort that's running?

Did the compressors ship with a full oil charge? Before this compressor install thinking about too much oil: Accumulator changed? Flush the system?

The compressor did ship with a full oil charge, but I drained it and then filled it with the oil I bought so I would have a known 8oz charge.

Each time I changed compressors I also changed the accumulator. I also flushed the system each time.
 
I just had a thought while I was in the shower (the shower is the best place to think….). The condenser that’s in the truck right now is the one that I pulled the orifice tube out and found NO o-ring on the tube. I have installed two different orifice tubes now with o-rings on them, HOWEVER they wouldn’t slide into the condenser’s tube with the installed o-rings…I had to put a little bit smaller o-ring on them, and even then, they were still a real bear to install. I wonder if I’m damaging the tubes while trying to install them? Maybe I’m collapsing the orifice tube during the struggle? So my thoughts were: install the orifice tube without an o-ring and see what happens, or better (maybe?) find an even smaller o-ring that slides in better. Or another route I can go is get out the thinner condenser I bought (actually I have two now) and see how the orifice tube fits in those….if they fit better then install one of those condensers and see what happens.
 
The "orifice" in the orifice tube is brass, or at least the standard ones I have looked at are.

I doubt you did anything to crush it.

I wouldn't go without an o-ring, that is essentially a leak that bypasses the orifice that you are trying to pass through. I would try a thinner o-ring if needed.
 
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