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I jection timing

W

wooldridgejames463@gmail.

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I'm working on a 95 I changed the 6.5 and now I. Getting no fuel can anyone help me with so.e wiring test on the eletrical beforei
I change the pump,,I know my lift pump is working I know my fuel cut off is working not sure how to test the rest of them?? Thank you for all your help in advance,,,never done one of the before.
 
Welcome to the truck stop 463.
Loosen the injector nuts a couple of turns. Tap the lines gently and be sure that the lines have loosed from the injector, they should slightly wiggle within the nuts.
If possible, remove the glow plugs.
Always nice to have a remote starter push button switch.
With the ignition switch in the run position, crank over the engine until fuel dribbles from the lines and nuts. Tighten the nuts as each line dribbles fuel. After all lines have fuel dribbling and all the line nuts is tight, install the glow plugs, turn ignition switch to run position, wait for the wait to start lamp to extinguish, crank over the engine. If the battery and starter are healthy, enjun should fire right up.
 
If You dont have a remote sfarter push button switch, You then will need a helper, someone capable of being able to crank over the engine with the ignition switch is a good substitute.
Or, crank for 30 seconds then turn switch to off position, walk around and see if any of the lines and nuts is wet with fuel. Allow the starter to rest for a couple of minutes to cool then give it about another 30 second cranking time. Repeat until fuel is observed at the lines and Nuts.
This could take ten minutes of crank time.
 
MrMarty51 said:
If You dont have a remote sfarter push button switch, You then will need a helper, someone capable of being able to crank over the engine with the ignition switch is a good substitute.
Or, crank for 30 seconds then turn switch to off position, walk around and see if any of the lines and nuts is wet with fuel. Allow the starter to rest for a couple of minutes to cool then give it about another 30 second cranking time. Repeat until fuel is observed at the lines and Nuts.
This could take ten minutes of crank time.
Click to expand...
Thank you I'm going to change the cam sensor and give this a try
 
Diagnose- don’t start throwing parts at it. Many times I have seen new defects really complicate things. I have seen people decide a new cps and new optic sensor was a smart move without diagnostics. Then figured the ip (injection pump) was the answer. Then new injectors. Then new fuel filter housing assembly and lift pump. Then finally replaced a $5 hose and had it running but really poorly. Sold the truck for less than the parts cost. New owner diagnosed it and the cps that was new - turns out was bad. Fuel line was the problem the whole time.

You changed the 6.5. Please elaborate. Swapped short block, long block, complete long block, from junkyard, from an engine rebuilding company (if so who), new engine (from who and which one) with new or reusing the ip?
New batteries/ new battery cables with new engine?

How do you know your LP (Lift Pump) is working? What volume per minute and what pressure are you getting and where EXACTLY are you tapping the pressure gauge from? Ideally a metal T is installed on the ip inlet. For the pressure sensor and gauge mounted in dash to monitor in use. 8-14psi is your range. It will run on less but getting below 5 is hard on the ip and getting below 1 wears the ip incredibly fast and can keep it from running in some circumstances.

Has the pmd been replaced with a known good one? Please explain details- not just yes if so. Many times a yes gets turned around a week later. Bent pins is a common error- inspect them carefully. Do you have the pmd relocated and if so to where? And who is the extension cable bought from?

Some of these questions might seem unimportant- they are not.

Do you have clear & clean fuel without bubbles flowing through the ip? Replace the ip return hose with clear tubing. It is 1/4” diameter and 5-6” long in an upside down “U” shape coming out of the front/top of the ip. Clear tubing can be bought at most hardware stores sold by the foot. It is something best left as the clear line permanently but if bought there will need replacing every 3-5 years depending on your environment. Or order some actual fuel line that is rated for ethanol (which is in all our diesel fuel nowadays) from fuel-line.com. I only discovered that source a few years ago so we don’t know how many years it lasts but so far it’s longer than the pvc stuff from hardware stores. https://fuel-line.com/collections/fuel-line/products/1-4-fast-flow-fuel-line-1
Currently $10.99 for a 7’ piece.


Faster CAN be loosening the injection line nuts as described above.
While not a normal part of the process you are trying to do right now, if you choose to-
Removing the glow plugs makes cranking on the starter a lot much easier. With the plugs out you can accomplish a few things. One, find out if you have AC Delco 60G plugs or not. They are the only ones to run- if you want pictures of destroyed engines from other options lmk and I can post them for you. Only buy them from a proven authorized source- there is a lot of Chinese knock offs so saving the $3 isn’t worth it. If they are 60G plugs then bench test them while out. You can read about doing ohm’s test but I have proven that test invalid. If you want the long description- ask. Otherwise actually seeing them glow red is the only worthwhile test. A key item- ARE YOU FAMILIAR WITH REMOVING SWOLLEN PLUGS WITH THE TOOL?

You can do a compression test while they are all out- this becomes very valuable info to eliminate problems and hears later to have ait to compare to on the health of the engine. If it is a new or rebuilt then the rings aren’t seated and not worth doing yet.
Before reinstalling your tested plugs or new ones (remember to antiseize the threads before installing) you can leave the fuel line nuts tight. With all the plugs removed, crank over the engine and it will spin incredibly faster. When the fuel gets a mist coming out of the plug holes you will see it and know 100% you are getting fuel through the injectors. When ready ip, this is really the preferred method. You are adding labor to the diagnostics, but gaining knowledge about other systems at the same time and not risking burning up the starter.

Crank times for the starter:
30 seconds on
30 seconds off
30 seconds on
30 seconds off
30 seconds on
30 MINUTES off

Otherwise you can smoke the starter. Shen doing a bunch of cranking for diagnostics- and the fact that the engine spins over incredibly fast means the difference sometimes of deathnail into the starter and or batteries.
 
Will L. said:
Diagnose- don’t start throwing parts at it. Many times I have seen new defects really complicate things. I have seen people decide a new cps and new optic sensor was a smart move without diagnostics. Then figured the ip (injection pump) was the answer. Then new injectors. Then new fuel filter housing assembly and lift pump. Then finally replaced a $5 hose and had it running but really poorly. Sold the truck for less than the parts cost. New owner diagnosed it and the cps that was new - turns out was bad. Fuel line was the problem the whole time.

You changed the 6.5. Please elaborate. Swapped short block, long block, complete long block, from junkyard, from an engine rebuilding company (if so who), new engine (from who and which one) with new or reusing the ip?
New batteries/ new battery cables with new engine?

How do you know your LP (Lift Pump) is working? What volume per minute and what pressure are you getting and where EXACTLY are you tapping the pressure gauge from? Ideally a metal T is installed on the ip inlet. For the pressure sensor and gauge mounted in dash to monitor in use. 8-14psi is your range. It will run on less but getting below 5 is hard on the ip and getting below 1 wears the ip incredibly fast and can keep it from running in some circumstances.

Has the pmd been replaced with a known good one? Please explain details- not just yes if so. Many times a yes gets turned around a week later. Bent pins is a common error- inspect them carefully. Do you have the pmd relocated and if so to where? And who is the extension cable bought from?

Some of these questions might seem unimportant- they are not.

Do you have clear & clean fuel without bubbles flowing through the ip? Replace the ip return hose with clear tubing. It is 1/4” diameter and 5-6” long in an upside down “U” shape coming out of the front/top of the ip. Clear tubing can be bought at most hardware stores sold by the foot. It is something best left as the clear line permanently but if bought there will need replacing every 3-5 years depending on your environment. Or order some actual fuel line that is rated for ethanol (which is in all our diesel fuel nowadays) from fuel-line.com. I only discovered that source a few years ago so we don’t know how many years it lasts but so far it’s longer than the pvc stuff from hardware stores. https://fuel-line.com/collections/fuel-line/products/1-4-fast-flow-fuel-line-1
Currently $10.99 for a 7’ piece.


Faster CAN be loosening the injection line nuts as described above.
While not a normal part of the process you are trying to do right now, if you choose to-
Removing the glow plugs makes cranking on the starter a lot much easier. With the plugs out you can accomplish a few things. One, find out if you have AC Delco 60G plugs or not. They are the only ones to run- if you want pictures of destroyed engines from other options lmk and I can post them for you. Only buy them from a proven authorized source- there is a lot of Chinese knock offs so saving the $3 isn’t worth it. If they are 60G plugs then bench test them while out. You can read about doing ohm’s test but I have proven that test invalid. If you want the long description- ask. Otherwise actually seeing them glow red is the only worthwhile test. A key item- ARE YOU FAMILIAR WITH REMOVING SWOLLEN PLUGS WITH THE TOOL?

You can do a compression test while they are all out- this becomes very valuable info to eliminate problems and hears later to have ait to compare to on the health of the engine. If it is a new or rebuilt then the rings aren’t seated and not worth doing yet.
Before reinstalling your tested plugs or new ones (remember to antiseize the threads before installing) you can leave the fuel line nuts tight. With all the plugs removed, crank over the engine and it will spin incredibly faster. When the fuel gets a mist coming out of the plug holes you will see it and know 100% you are getting fuel through the injectors. When ready ip, this is really the preferred method. You are adding labor to the diagnostics, but gaining knowledge about other systems at the same time and not risking burning up the starter.

Crank times for the starter:
30 seconds on
30 seconds off
30 seconds on
30 seconds off
30 seconds on
30 MINUTES off

Otherwise you can smoke the starter. Shen doing a bunch of cranking for diagnostics- and the fact that the engine spins over incredibly fast means the difference sometimes of deathnail into the starter and or batteries.
Click to expand...
Thank you sir,,so the engine is and complete from a junkyard
 
Welcome to the forum James, looks like everyone has you on the right track. just keep in mind NEVER use the "mechanic in a can" starting fluid on these engines no matter how frustrated you might get. have plenty of patients with these engines and take your time. keep a flat board ready in the event of a runaway since you don't know the condition of this JY engine or IP.
 
Will L. said:
Ok-
Pull the glowlugs and do compression test is now a requirement.

Reread my questions & answer others.
Click to expand...
/\_/\_/\ WHAT HE SAID /\_/\_/\

And use only a compression tester designed for a diesel engine. Compression ratio most likely will destroy a compression tester for a gas engine.
Be sure to disconnect the electronic shut off solenoid before starting the compression test.
You do not want the engine to start while in the process of obtaining compression readings.
 
Properly you remove all glowplugs before beginning. But absolutely unplug the fso or the gauge will grenade in your hand. Never do a “wet” test on a diesel.
Compression test kits can be rented /free from most parts stores.
 
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