Diagnose- don’t start throwing parts at it. Many times I have seen new defects really complicate things. I have seen people decide a new cps and new optic sensor was a smart move without diagnostics. Then figured the ip (injection pump) was the answer. Then new injectors. Then new fuel filter housing assembly and lift pump. Then finally replaced a $5 hose and had it running but really poorly. Sold the truck for less than the parts cost. New owner diagnosed it and the cps that was new - turns out was bad. Fuel line was the problem the whole time.
You changed the 6.5. Please elaborate. Swapped short block, long block, complete long block, from junkyard, from an engine rebuilding company (if so who), new engine (from who and which one) with new or reusing the ip?
New batteries/ new battery cables with new engine?
How do you know your LP (Lift Pump) is working? What volume per minute and what pressure are you getting and where EXACTLY are you tapping the pressure gauge from? Ideally a metal T is installed on the ip inlet. For the pressure sensor and gauge mounted in dash to monitor in use. 8-14psi is your range. It will run on less but getting below 5 is hard on the ip and getting below 1 wears the ip incredibly fast and can keep it from running in some circumstances.
Has the pmd been replaced with a known good one? Please explain details- not just yes if so. Many times a yes gets turned around a week later. Bent pins is a common error- inspect them carefully. Do you have the pmd relocated and if so to where? And who is the extension cable bought from?
Some of these questions might seem unimportant- they are not.
Do you have clear & clean fuel without bubbles flowing through the ip? Replace the ip return hose with clear tubing. It is 1/4” diameter and 5-6” long in an upside down “U” shape coming out of the front/top of the ip. Clear tubing can be bought at most hardware stores sold by the foot. It is something best left as the clear line permanently but if bought there will need replacing every 3-5 years depending on your environment. Or order some actual fuel line that is rated for ethanol (which is in all our diesel fuel nowadays) from fuel-line.com. I only discovered that source a few years ago so we don’t know how many years it lasts but so far it’s longer than the pvc stuff from hardware stores.
https://fuel-line.com/collections/fuel-line/products/1-4-fast-flow-fuel-line-1
Currently $10.99 for a 7’ piece.
Faster CAN be loosening the injection line nuts as described above.
While not a normal part of the process you are trying to do right now, if you choose to-
Removing the glow plugs makes cranking on the starter a lot much easier. With the plugs out you can accomplish a few things. One, find out if you have AC Delco 60G plugs or not. They are the only ones to run- if you want pictures of destroyed engines from other options lmk and I can post them for you. Only buy them from a proven authorized source- there is a lot of Chinese knock offs so saving the $3 isn’t worth it. If they are 60G plugs then bench test them while out. You can read about doing ohm’s test but I have proven that test invalid. If you want the long description- ask. Otherwise actually seeing them glow red is the only worthwhile test. A key item- ARE YOU FAMILIAR WITH REMOVING SWOLLEN PLUGS WITH THE TOOL?
You can do a compression test while they are all out- this becomes very valuable info to eliminate problems and hears later to have ait to compare to on the health of the engine. If it is a new or rebuilt then the rings aren’t seated and not worth doing yet.
Before reinstalling your tested plugs or new ones (remember to antiseize the threads before installing) you can leave the fuel line nuts tight. With all the plugs removed, crank over the engine and it will spin incredibly faster. When the fuel gets a mist coming out of the plug holes you will see it and know 100% you are getting fuel through the injectors. When ready ip, this is really the preferred method. You are adding labor to the diagnostics, but gaining knowledge about other systems at the same time and not risking burning up the starter.
Crank times for the starter:
30 seconds on
30 seconds off
30 seconds on
30 seconds off
30 seconds on
30 MINUTES off
Otherwise you can smoke the starter. Shen doing a bunch of cranking for diagnostics- and the fact that the engine spins over incredibly fast means the difference sometimes of deathnail into the starter and or batteries.
