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HX40W-II + K47 Airbox??

It's a t3 flange just like the gm turbos so it will bolt right to the exhaust manifold.

This turbo has a waste gate set to 20psi and will get up there fast even with stock fueling
 
what is the kit called? Will it work with a 3" down pipe? How much? How hard is this turbo to switch out? I was thinking of and ATT but came across this thread and after research, this turbo seems much much cheaper!


By the time you get done modding everything it is not that much cheaper. Do you need to change to a top post battery? the silicone for the air cleaner is not cheap as well. The misconception is that it is much cheaper. Who is going to warranty anything that goes wrong or service your turbo if it goes bad? Just a few things to think about. The ATT is a time tested kit, with quality control. two cuts and you are done. ALSO the exit pipe on the A-Team is a straight ninety degree no offsets, and is three inch pipe. mandrel bent for smooth flow. Just to clear up a few misquoted items. All my parts are production quality machine work each A-Team part interchanges with any other A-team turbo. Those are some of the extras that cost a little more, I also stock parts.
 
I also have a question to the hx clone users, talked to a few guys that say that when the waste gate opens the truck feels like it hits a wall and won't accelerate until the waste gate closes. Is this true, figured this may make towing a little bit of a problem. Is that why it needs a waste gate that is spring operated? How much boost between 1000 and 1600 rpm towing and or cruising around town. Also any IAT intake temps or back pressure specifications yet. Just asking unless I have missed them thanks for the patience, not trying to derail this thread so if this needs to be moved to a separate thread that us fine as well.
 
I never heard any hx owners say anything like that, mine goes strong even when waste gate opens. I have heard nothing but good things about these turbos.

The spring operated waste gate is to allow a wider adjustment for the boost, set it as low as 10psi or more then 20. All depends on preference and so on.

I'm running an iat gauge on my truck and they are right in check, I haven't towed yet but the iats have been well under 200 and come down fast right when throttle is lifted.

Once my rear end is down from the shop I will get some video up of the iat gauge for you guys to check out.

No drive pressure set up and I doubht I'll ever set one up cause I'm sure they are much lower then with stock gm turbo and I'm sure it's also lower then the banks I used to run
 
I'm still waiting to see a heads up side by side comparison of the ATT and HX40II clone on the same vehicle with all the variables except for the turbo constant (ie: same air filter set up, exhaust, injectors, tune, ambient conditions). A tow test with the same weight trailer up the same grade (the difference between a 75* day and an 80* day are negligible, but between a 65* and 90* day are) for IAT, EGT, boost, elapsed time and MPH from standing start to top. 0-60MPH times for uphill tow, 40-60MPH and 60-70MPH times on the level towing (simulated passing on highway). Unloaded MPG testing over same city/hwy road course of 90-150 miles (for accuracy) as well as a steady-state Interstate MPG test over 100 miles at 75MPH with all the measurable parameters recorded such as IAT, EGT, Boost at what RPM's over the courses.

In short, a scientifically and statistically valid, repeatable controlled experiment, something of which Diesel Power has yet to actually come close to doing, although they did come very close in the just out September issue in testing all of ATS's turbos on the same Dodge Cummins vehicle over a long-term testing period with the only variable being the turbo. They ran the stock HX35, then the S3000, S4000, S5000 and then the compound S5000 kit. Very interesting results, but very scientific method weak, as is most everything Diesel Power does, because they have JOURNALISTS testing products, NOT people with strong SCIENCE backgrounds who know how to set up a controlled experiment and what variables to control and parameters to measure.

Dennis, I understand exactly where you're coming from and the issues that you cite. We both also know and realize that the ATT was arrived at using much the same scientific methodology and testing as what goes into OEM or good aftermarket product development, yet the ATT was developed with much the same inspiration, research, fabrication and perspiration as those who are trying to do it themselves with the clone HX40II or other turbos like the VVT35 off the 6.7 Cummins. We are all looking for that better mouse trap to make the 6.5 a motor that can earn some respect and be competitive with the stock new generation Duramaxes/Cummins/Strokes.

Me personally, I am in the quest for the ideal set up of gearing/tune/injectors/turbo so that I can run at 1700-2000 RPM at 75-85 MPH on the Interstate and achieve a repeatable 23-26 MPG in my 4L80E '98 K2500 Suburban. The turbo is a key element in that equation, as the more air I can get into the engine (with minimal to no backpressure) so that I have complete burn and the coolest possible EGT while cruising will give me the best MPGs, all other things being equal. I'm not looking to be towing a 10K load up Deadman's Pass at 3600RPM, or spinning 350rwhp or making speed runs at 130MPH, but I want to stretch my cruising range and MPG's to the max. I'm also VERY seriously considering mounting a 32 gallon (actually 36 if you REALLY top it off) pickup fuel tank along the frame rail so I can get 78+ gallons of fuel capacity with the Burb's 42 (44) gallon tank so that I could be able to run Lincoln to LA without refueling in theory (I-70 through CO and UT kinda kiboshes that) or Lincoln-San Fransisco in reality, or Lincoln to pretty much anywhere on the Eastern Seaboard without refueling. My quest is for the ultimate Family Truckster Vacation and Screw Stopping Road Trip Vehicle. If I run on home brewed Biodiesel my cost for fuel would be about $0.04/mile, on waste ATF $0.00!!:thumbsup:

Even if I had to blend with pump diesel, my cost per mile would be damn cheap to say the least to make the run from Lincoln to Happy Valley and back for the Nebraska-Penn State football game (although in light of recent events, it probably won't be much of a game for the next decade) or to make the run to SoCal to visit my family and friends there, or perhaps to the ancestral grounds up in Portland, Maine to catch the fall colors, or maybe to the Florida Keys to see the sun set once again at Key West and then watch it slowly disappear as the sea rises due to Global Warming and the melting of the polar ice or maybe I just want to be a tight-ass bastard in my old age and only have to fill up once every couple of months for damn near free driving around town.

Sorry for the partial hijacking of the thread, but I thought the point of this thread and forum was the exchange of ideas on ways to make our 6.5's run better, be more efficient, last longer, be more powerful, etc.
 
Slim Shady said:

By the time you get done modding everything it is not that much cheaper. Do you need to change to a top post battery? the silicone for the air cleaner is not cheap as well. The misconception is that it is much cheaper. Who is going to warranty anything that goes wrong or service your turbo if it goes bad? Just a few things to think about. The ATT is a time tested kit, with quality control. two cuts and you are done. ALSO the exit pipe on the A-Team is a straight ninety degree no offsets, and is three inch pipe. mandrel bent for smooth flow. Just to clear up a few misquoted items. All my parts are production quality machine work each A-Team part interchanges with any other A-team turbo. Those are some of the extras that cost a little more, I also stock parts.
Click to expand...


You are right, after I added it all up including horrendous shipping costs and duty to Canada, including my intake it totalled $935.

That includes, turbo, downpipe, turbomaster, and the intake parts.

The only argument on the side of the intake; I had Mr. Heath delete my MAF, but I never got around to actually building a straight through intake, so this was motivation to get rid of that sensor and build it properly.
 
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