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HX40W-II + K47 Airbox??

Dylly

Dylly

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Location
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Has anyone managed to set up the HX40W-II with their stock K47 Airbox in the stock location?

I won't have the luxury of making numerous trips to the local speed shop for parts on my intake since I'm from a small town. I'll have to make a city trip for this one, or order parts from my local NAPA. I guess I'm just wondering if its possible for starters.

I'm hoping to make the closed top box work with a turbomaster and the battery in the same location.

Somebody has to have tried this...
 
its been done by a few with no problem. key is ditch the waste gate actuator and get a spring actuated waste gate. A top post battery isnt a bad idea either.

Good luck with the install
 
Jorge6.5 said:
its been done by a few with no problem. key is ditch the waste gate actuator and get a spring actuated waste gate. A top post battery isnt a bad idea either.

Good luck with the install
Click to expand...

Yes the stock actuator is in the way, I would squash the 4" tubing where you connect the 90's and gain more room for the battery post
 
I do have a spring wastgate sitting in a box next to the turbo in the garage and already switched my positive post to top mount since it was giving me trouble. I guess im half way there then.

Ill take a look today but i bet ill need a reducer to use the stock filter (k&n)
 
I did it. It is pretty easy to do, but you need the right parts. On the long HX40 thread I have all parts and costs listed out in detail. The wastegate actuator "pot" does rub the airbox, but not a huge deal IMO.

001.jpg
 
I just did the install and used the stock K47 in stock location with stock sized KnN (yea I know...). All I did to make it fit was order a reducing 4-3.5" silicone 90 and a 3.5" joiner. Worked pretty well and makes simple install along with the spring wastegate. Dont overlook the oil drian, its a pia to bend to fit I recommend going with some hose to extend and cut the tube as others have done.
 
If you dont have pipe bending tools/skills, you can cut a length of the return out, and replace with hose. But also, you could clock the center section to make it line up easier. Basically make it so the oil feed is angled toward the engine a little at the top and the drain angled away from the engine just a bit at the bottom. Because right now if you just cut it in two pieces the turbo is sitting closer to the engine than the GMx, so the part of the return connected to the turbo will be too tight of bend to get it down where it passes through the heatshield. Then you have to clock the compressor to line up with the intake.

Could do like Raceday make your own stainless hose all the way from the engine to the turbo. Or just replace the part that connects to the turbo with a straight flange and run a hose just to the where the existing pipe passes through the heatshield. That could be part of a kit for install. Just cut off the existing retrurn an inch from the heatshield and use the flange and hose in the kit.
 
Thanks for all the input, I'm definitely doing my intake up like Pillow did, that looks almost factory. Ordering the parts for it as we speak actually.

I have a good idea what you guys are talking about with the drain line, I'll get a closer look at it tomorrow when I start mounting the turbo up... So far the GM8 is off, and all the problem areas on the HX40 have been addressed with a file except I haven't cut the flange off the turbo outlet yet... I was going to get my Heavy duty mechanic uncle to take a look at the shaft play to make sure it's not going to be a problem... Its subtle, no worse than the GM8 that I took out.
 
The journal bearings probably need some oil in them to compare the shaft play. If you haven't you might consider knife edging and gasket matching the turbo's T3 flange with a grinder/dremel. We dont utilize the dual scroll so that middle divider is not necessary.
 
This is my oil drain hose. This set up cost more but works very well.

The flange was leaking oil a little bit but i used hi temp silicon gasket maker and seal it.

6895858482_cbd3df5e60_z.jpg
 
You can just cut out the center part of the gasket, or get a non divided gasket if the steel one becomes too flimsy then. I got some cometic T3 gaskets, they also make V-band gaskets if interested.
 
mug23 said:
This is my oil drain hose. This set up cost more but works very well.

The flange was leaking oil a little bit but i used hi temp silicon gasket maker and seal it.

6895858482_cbd3df5e60_z.jpg
Click to expand...

Thats a very nice set up and similar to what I want to do. Mind giving some info on the specs of the sizes you used and where you got the pieces? what size hose did you go with and how did you attach it to where it ties into the block?
 
All the pieces are AN fittings and the hose is stainless braided. You will need a T3 oil drain flange(don't forget to use some hi temp gasket maker to seal it), 45* angle AN fitting and -10 hose. I bought all these parts from a local speed shop . The -10 hose will fit right over the oil drain collector on the block and just use hose clam to tighten it down. I also use a exhaust wrap to wrap around the part of the hose that were touch the exhaust manifold so it wouldn't brun through.

This is pretty basic set up and much better than the mod stock pipe. The only problem is, this set up cost me $100.
 
That looks good. Just make sure the flange is for T3. Don't for get to get some clams.

Man I should have order it from ebay. It would have saved me so much more money.
 
Even though this thread is about the intake, and I don't have it installed yet as I'm waiting on parts... I DID get the turbo installed.

Free rev in the yard:

[video=youtube;DkBuCWBhmRg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DkBuCWBhmRg&feature=relmfu[/video]
 
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