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HX35 Install Any Tips?

Yes the 2 other turbos were gm 4 and 8. There is a little bit more lag with the hx35 but nothing to be to worried about unless your racing or somthing. I hope to do some towing this weekend and see how it pulls. Caues it sure has alot
more pull on the top end. And I just found out you can take out the
silencer ring in these turbos for
more wistle and air flow. I know what I'm doin after school :)
 
DZZ71 said:
The oil return line under the turbo had to be modified also. I chopped it off and just put the correct angle on and tacked it in place with it bolted to the turbo. I then unbolted it and welded it out. I can post a picture of it if you want me to.
Click to expand...

PLease do...:smile5:
 
DZZ71 said:
Yes the 2 other turbos were gm 4 and 8. There is a little bit more lag with the hx35 but nothing to be to worried about unless your racing or somthing. I hope to do some towing this weekend and see how it pulls. Caues it sure has alot
more pull on the top end. And I just found out you can take out the
silencer ring in these turbos for
more wistle and air flow. I know what I'm doin after school :)
Click to expand...

Yep, useless crap that ring it...
 
Psi is still psi and a 6.5 starts blowing HG's past 14 psi depending on the health of the engine and Mods done. Head studs help a little.
 
Not to mention heads and a block that is known to crack, Weakspots rear of the engine, 7,8 don't get sufficient cooling as the coolant enters the front of the heads and moves backwards.

Easy tiger... let it live long enough to test more turbo's. :)
 
These things degreade up from excess heat. If you keep water cool and low EGTs run 20+ psi of boost. I run 20+ for the past 2 years on hard acceleration and high RPMs. I dont tow, but I run it up 3 miles steep grades 75-100mph quite often, sustaining 15psi for long periods of time. And then on the 120+mph runs every couple weeks boost is up around 20psi at 3500rpm. I would have thought it would have blown up by now, but its apparant that what kills them is long term heat, like towing long distance at 220+ degree coolant temps.
 
buddy said:
These things degreade up from excess heat. If you keep water cool and low EGTs run 20+ psi of boost. I run 20+ for the past 2 years on hard acceleration and high RPMs. I dont tow, but I run it up 3 miles steep grades 75-100mph quite often, sustaining 15psi for long periods of time. And then on the 120+mph runs every couple weeks boost is up around 20psi at 3500rpm. I would have thought it would have blown up by now, but its apparant that what kills them is long term heat, like towing long distance at 220+ degree coolant temps.
Click to expand...

who knows you might just be one of the lucky ones to get a better than avg engine.
 
Your air intake needs work. Looks like it is taking in hot under hood air. She will do better with cold air from the fender.
 
Hey i got a question. When did the newer generation block come out that have no cracking problems?? Becaues the guy that gave me the truck had a brand new crate engine from gm put in through warrenty back in 2000. How can you tell if its the upgraded block?
 
Im not sure there was ever a crack safe block made. I think American castings may have gotten better when GM gave the production away in 2001 or so.
 
DZZ71 said:
Hey i got a question. When did the newer generation block come out that have no cracking problems?? Becaues the guy that gave me the truck had a brand new crate engine from gm put in through warrenty back in 2000. How can you tell if its the upgraded block?
Click to expand...

The date code for the block casting is behind the passenger side head. It is hard if not impossible to see with motor in truck and head on. I used a piece of modeling clay to reach down and make an impression. I wanted to see what I had after GM replaced mine. Get the date and we can figure out what you have.
 
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