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Hows this blow by look? Also boost question

Will L. said:
Used engine oil with a pinch of beach sand is a little better.
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Thats what I use in all my engines too! Beach sand is the best cause it has lots of salt in it.
I try to get the highest mileage oil I can. My favorite is the recycle container from AutoZone that way I know I get the good stuff. Sometimes it has trans fluid and carb cleaner in it too, that has to be good right?
 
Ok thanks for all the info guys I got my oil analysis kit but just didn't drain any oil yet I guess I'll do it when the oil change is do since it's fresh oil.
 
They make a vampire kit to suck oil out the dipstick for UOA so you don't have to wait for a change. (Least 1000 miles on the oil though.) Harsh conditions are short trip, long idle times, towing, not warming the engine up all the way due to cold weather and medium trips, stop and go, taxi, delivery, WarWagon behind the wheel, etc.

Synthetic oil tends to make the engine oil cooler lines that have heat hardened leak. Synthetic oil has higher heat tolerance and this engine can benefit from that if you load it. I would replace the oil cooler lines with something better if you switch to synthetic. The GM hoses can't take the heat.

UOA is a trend sort of thing with surprises that are clear. Oil is done (needs to be changed) by low TBN, Viscosity creeping up due to high heat and soot loading, high soot, additive depletion, or high levels of contaminates. My favorite way to ruin oil is high temp that makes 15w-40 read in the 50 weight range. Yes, this is with the under 3000 mile change - my oil is done! Synthetic for me solves the high temp issue. (One result was 50 wt range, TBN failed, high soot, high metals... and a scuffed piston.)

With UOA you can see how your oil is doing and pick a change interval. Further any surprises like a cracked intake hose or coolant can be fixed before the engine fails.
 
WarWagon said:
They make a vampire kit to suck oil out the dipstick for UOA so you don't have to wait for a change. (Least 1000 miles on the oil though.) Harsh conditions are short trip, long idle times, towing, not warming the engine up all the way due to cold weather and medium trips, stop and go, taxi, delivery, WarWagon behind the wheel, etc.

Synthetic oil tends to make the engine oil cooler lines that have heat hardened leak. Synthetic oil has higher heat tolerance and this engine can benefit from that if you load it. I would replace the oil cooler lines with something better if you switch to synthetic. The GM hoses can't take the heat.

UOA is a trend sort of thing with surprises that are clear. Oil is done (needs to be changed) by low TBN, Viscosity creeping up due to high heat and soot loading, high soot, additive depletion, or high levels of contaminates. My favorite way to ruin oil is high temp that makes 15w-40 read in the 50 weight range. Yes, this is with the under 3000 mile change - my oil is done! Synthetic for me solves the high temp issue. (One result was 50 wt range, TBN failed, high soot, high metals... and a scuffed piston.)

With UOA you can see how your oil is doing and pick a change interval. Further any surprises like a cracked intake hose or coolant can be fixed before the engine fails.
Click to expand...
I do allot of short trips I warm the truck up 10 minutes or so and leave. I work not even a mile away from home and my girlfriend lives right down the street also. I just did the oil cooler lines and oil cooler front main seal, harmonic balancer and pulley. For me driving the truck it's going to take 3 years to get 100k on it or more the way I drive. I'm going to start going to diesel school soon but that's only 30 to 20 minutes away also. I got her as a daily driver because I didn't like driving my manual 7.3 plus the rot I fixed was horrendous lol nothing a welder a old car hood couldn't fix along with some sealer and caulk lol.
 
So has any one ever used motorkote oil additive I'm trying to find a good oil additive for my next oil change want some opinions what other people use in there 6.5s. I was thinking Lucas but I know oil injection motors don't like it like the 7.3 because it trappes air.
 
Oil pressure up? Yes: drop it in gear and hammer the throttle till it hits on all 8. Then I go. (My IP is a serious mess otherwise I would just go after oil pressure is up.) Idle doesn't warm these engines up very well or fast. (Generally it's better not to idle them.) Needing a heater for defrost - plug the truck in including tossing a space heater in the cab. Otherwise after it's running ok I get it moving as it warms up faster. Of course I am gentle on it till it has warmed up some.

Additives are not going to fix worn rings. Save your money and go synthetic oil instead. Really want to go crazy use AMSOIL CI4 rated oil. It's the non-EPA spec oil vs the CJ4 stuff.
 
WarWagon said:
Oil pressure up? Yes: drop it in gear and hammer the throttle till it hits on all 8. Then I go. (My IP is a serious mess otherwise I would just go after oil pressure is up.) Idle doesn't warm these engines up very well or fast. (Generally it's better not to idle them.) Needing a heater for defrost - plug the truck in including tossing a space heater in the cab. Otherwise after it's running ok I get it moving as it warms up faster. Of course I am gentle on it till it has warmed up some.

Additives are not going to fix worn rings. Save your money and go synthetic oil instead. Really want to go crazy use AMSOIL CI4 rated oil. It's the non-EPA spec oil vs the CJ4 stuff.
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I didn't want the oil for worn rings I just wanted an additive to flush it since i didnt do a oil flush i guess i can always put engine flush in before my next change.Next oil change I guess I'll run wolf's head synthetic or Rotella synthetic. So start the truck when oil pressure hits just light rev or drive until operating temp?
 
Prior to going to the expense of synthetic, strongly recommend analysis to make sure the motor is healthy.

For switching over to synthetic, AMSOIL has an OEM series which is less expensive (for synthetic anyway) as it is not for extended drain; it is only for the normal drain interval. After running the AMSOIL OEM oil, then switch over to the extended drain stuff and change the oil based off of analysis results. And just to stay ahead of a question, even when extending the drain intervals, continue to change the filters at the normal drain interval; also, send a sample out for analysis to determine whether the action is just to change the filter(s), or a complete oil change.
 
JayTheCPA said:
Prior to going to the expense of synthetic, strongly recommend analysis to make sure the motor is healthy.

For switching over to synthetic, AMSOIL has an OEM series which is less expensive (for synthetic anyway) as it is not for extended drain; it is only for the normal drain interval. After running the AMSOIL OEM oil, then switch over to the extended drain stuff and change the oil based off of analysis results. And just to stay ahead of a question, even when extending the drain intervals, continue to change the filters at the normal drain interval; also, send a sample out for analysis to determine whether the action is just to change the filter(s), or a complete oil change.
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Honestly I think if I went full synthetic I would still do every 3k because it's only $40 for two gallons plus I get a discount and I use the ac delco filter which is only 6 bucks or so. Also what oil filter should I use is the ac delco fine?
I'm going to use a transfer pump to drain some oil buying one from advance auto. Going to do it this weekend.
 
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I guess I need a new block heater also I left it plugged in over night and the engine bay didn't feel warmer and the temp gauge didn't move at all unless these little block heaters aren't that strong but I know on my other truck when I plugged it in over night the engine was up to temp just from the heater.
 
NVW said:
Did it start better? Mine has no effect on the gauge, it just star easier and clears up sooner.
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Honestly I don't know it didn't seems like it was any different it might of started better.
 
Yes, no reading is likely a bad cord, all 000's would indicate the cord is good but the element has no resistance, ie no heat. You want a resistance, I don't know what they ohm out to.
 
NVW said:
Yes, no reading is likely a bad cord, all 000's would indicate the cord is good but the element has no resistance, ie no heat. You want a resistance, I don't know what they ohm out to.
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Ok so do a resistance check on it. I'll do that tomorrow after work.
 
WarWagon said:
I would use a better oil filter than the E core cr@p the AC Delco filters have gone to. They are nearly as bad as Fram now. Plastic instead of steel inner core, felt endcaps... In fact I would rather run a Nuclear Orange can of death FRAM over the new AC Declo filters because when they fail and eat an engine FRAM pays for it.

Some oil filter studies:
http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilterstudy.html
http://www.genosgarage.com/GenosGarageTechArticles/TDR71_LubeOilFiltration.pdf
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What filter do you normally run? There is so many options I mean I can run a wix filter carquest filters are actually wix filter in a carquest box with the logo. Most brands I run are wix, k&n, Mobil1, ac delco and Purolator. I always thought the higher the micron number the better and honestly never looked into any of that just always put what was on sale or name brand on except fram.
 
Mobile one extended performance filters for me.

Has the construction I want and is available locally.

Win-win.

Costs a little more than the average filter though.

My engine is a 4 year old GEP optimizer (and i push it pretty hard in dyno thrash sessions) so I have no issue spending a couple extra bucks on good quality filters and synthetics.

Wix filters are comparable I think, bit not available locally so don't quote me on that. I only know things about Wix by reading thier product data. You'll have to research it out yourself to know for sure.

Stay away from Fram. Bad ju-ju......
 
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