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How many bolts hold on the starter?

colbythekid

colbythekid

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Messages
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Location
Fullerton, CA
How many bolts hold on the starter? I have removed the two long ones that go vertical through the starter and into the block. The starter now wiggles but it feels like there is more holding it on.

Having some issues starting the truck. When I try to start the engine (hot or cold) it sounds like there is not enough power going to the starter. After about 5-10 seconds it gets going fast enough and starts.

I first tested the batteries and one failed. So now I have one brand new battery and one battery that is a year and a half old.

I also cleaned the grounds on the batteries and the positive leads on the battery posts.

I hear that taking out the starter is a PITA but it seems like the next step in getting the truck starting like a champ. Plus I don't want to find myself stuck somewhere.

Thanks in advance

Colby
 
Your forgeting the bracket, attached from starter to the block......Lift the plastic/rubber splash shield in the fender well and you'll see it on the rear of the starter.
 
I go as far as to jack it up and remove the pass side tire helps me alot.

Take the wheel well right out if you want more room.
 
Got it!!! Thanks.

I had the tire off already because I was replacing the ABS cable on that hub. Figured it was a good time to attack the starter.
It was not as hard as I thought it was going to be. By the other threads I read on here it sounded like it was going to be much harder.

Thanks!!!

Colby
 
Matt Bachand said:
I go as far as to jack it up and remove the pass side tire helps me alot.

Take the wheel well right out if you want more room.
Click to expand...

Matt, you got air and a gun.....or do you take the wheel off by hand?........Reason I ask is because I don't have air and my 19.5" wheels feel like they are a 1000 lbs and the 1" lug nuts are PIA to loosen and torque back tight.

Not that it can't be done by hand, just takes me longer and I'm a LB!:rolleyes5:
 
colbythekid said:
Got it!!! Thanks.

I had the tire off already because I was replacing the ABS cable on that hub. Figured it was a good time to attack the starter.
It was not as hard as I thought it was going to be. By the other threads I read on here it sounded like it was going to be much harder.

Thanks!!!
Colby
Click to expand...



You got a line on those ABS sensors/cables/clips/hardware?.......I have an ABS light on and the code said it was one of the sensors
 
Colby,
Hope this doesn't reach you too late, but while you have the starter out it would be a good time to check your grounds in that area as well as the battery cable. Your original problem sounds similar to a problem I had a while back that ended up being corroded battery cables. Good luck.
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
You got a line on those ABS sensors/cables/clips/hardware?.......I have an ABS light on and the code said it was one of the sensors
Click to expand...

I picked up one for each side from Rock auto. Think they were like $15 each. They come with the mounting brackets that attach to the upper arm, the steering knuckle and the frame. I hear that if your hubs are going out that will cause the ABS sensor to fail. My dad just bought new hubs for his burb and they came with the ABS sensor.

Also think about doing it at the same time as the breaks. You have to take off the calipers and the rotors to get to the sensor. Then you will need a 5mm allen wrench to get the sensor out of the hub assembly. Its a pain to do with the hub still attached to the rotors, but its doable.

Colby
 
Took the starter into NAPA and it failed. $144 for a reman.

Both ends of the positive cable (starter and battery side) look good. Is there anything else that I shold do while I have the starter out? Any grounds down on the bottom passenger side of the engine that should be cleaned?

Just changed out the glow plugs about 4 months ago along with the injectors.

Colby
 
ctdiesel said:
Colby,
Hope this doesn't reach you too late, but while you have the starter out it would be a good time to check your grounds in that area as well as the battery cable. Your original problem sounds similar to a problem I had a while back that ended up being corroded battery cables. Good luck.
Click to expand...

CT was already thinking about it!
 
colbythekid said:
I picked up one for each side from Rock auto. Think they were like $15 each. They come with the mounting brackets that attach to the upper arm, the steering knuckle and the frame. I hear that if your hubs are going out that will cause the ABS sensor to fail. My dad just bought new hubs for his burb and they came with the ABS sensor.

Also think about doing it at the same time as the breaks. You have to take off the calipers and the rotors to get to the sensor. Then you will need a 5mm allen wrench to get the sensor out of the hub assembly. Its a pain to do with the hub still attached to the rotors, but its doable.

Colby
Click to expand...

I think my setup is different 2WD and not the sealed bearings....the sensors are in plain site.
 
http://www.thewakemans.net/starter_bolt_block.html
http://www.thewakemans.net/starter_bolts_bottom.html

Here are some pictures of the three bolts that are holding the starter to the engine block. The two on the bottom are easy to get off. The one on the side of the block is more of a pain. I had to use a universial joint socket to allow for me to get the bolt off.

After I got the starter loose I had to take the braket off the starter so I could get it out from under the truck.

The wires are long enough to get drop the starter, but you will have to hold onto the starter to undo main power wire coming from the battery and the starter wire coming from the ignition. They are not long enought to touch the ground. I tried wedging the starter between the frame rail but it will not stay.

Colby
 
The only bolt that holds the starter on is the rear bracket mount bolt. Without it the starter has a bad habit of departing the engine regardless of the two big bolts or block corner. Make sure you put that hard to reach bolt back on.

I would test that year and a half old battery and then put it on the charger overnight. Who knows what the failing battery did to it's state of charge.
 
If you have your inner fender off you have easy access to the ground from the firewall to the frame and the frame to the engine. Clean them with a wire brush at both ends.

If it were me I'd replace the positive wire from the starter to the battery. Mine looked fine, but by some quirk I decided to peal back some insulation just to check. I found the cable corroded under the insulation. I pealed off another 3/4" and found some more. Had a new cable made at the starter shop.

Now I know being proactive is time consuming and expensive, but it sure beats doing the same thing from start to finish in nasty weather again. Remember a roof only leaks when it rains, and a starter only fails when you need it!
 
X2 on what D2 Cat says.

The positive wire between battery and starter is hard to reach to change at other times. Replace it while it is much easier, and go with a bigger size cable. The stock ones IMOP are marginal when new. The rest of the battery cables are easy to change from the top at any time.

I recently changed mine during a starter swap. I peeled back the moulded plastic on the battery end (looked to be in good shape) and found heavy corrosion under the plastic.

Don
 
What size wire from battery to starter do you think is best? The wire looks like its in good shape, but like you guys said better to replace it now while I have it out then down the road.

I will clean the grounds while I am under the truck tomorrow.
Colby
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
Matt, you got air and a gun.....or do you take the wheel off by hand?........Reason I ask is because I don't have air and my 19.5" wheels feel like they are a 1000 lbs and the 1" lug nuts are PIA to loosen and torque back tight.

Not that it can't be done by hand, just takes me longer and I'm a LB!:rolleyes5:
Click to expand...

I use air. Nothing fancy, just a 10 gallon 120psi cheapy compressor. Once you have the wheelwell out once, it only takes 10 minutes to jack it up, remove the tire, then zip off the 13mm bolts that hold the wheelwell on with air ratchet.

It takes me as long to remove this stuff as it does to think about removing it, so I just remove it :)

I only jackstand the truck so its about 1/2 higher than the tire, so the tire lift is barely anything.

I also like to do maintenance when these things are out.
 
After removing the inner wheelwell for the first time, I used a little bit of anti-sieze when I put things back together. I've had it out several times since. It comes apart real easy now.

Don
 
That new starter makes all the difference in the worlD. Instead of straining to turn it over, it just jumps it like a raped ape. Very impressed with the troublleshooting and mechanical work of my protege.

Steve "Big T"
 
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