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How long does it take to get the air out?

by taking the passenger side wheel off and the fender flap you can get straight to 3 of the glow plugs no problem, and the downpipe is in the way of the back one. Two of them obviously have shields, but even though the bolts holding my shields on seemed to be rusted on I could remove the glow plug connections with a hook, remove and install the glows and plug them back in by lining them up and pushing in with a screwdriver.
 
Michaeljp86 said:
This truck has a brand new IP.
I plugged in the block heater for about 3 hours and it fired right up. I checked the glows on the drivers side with a ohm meter and they were ok I think. I just wonder if they are still the stock glow plugs under the turbo.

I still have the block heater plugged in, Im going to try it again tomorrow.
Click to expand...

I did'nt know that you had new IP,maybe i overlooked that in your first post, but you wont be the first one to get a dud right out of the box.:eek:
 
I bought one from him and could barely get my truck to start. Lots of ether and lots of wd40. Took it off and had a local shop test it for me. Sent it back and they sent me a diff one. Had it tested and the guy who tested it said he thought it was just a take off that still worked. I've read about other people with probs from him too. And they had a hard time getting any satisfaction from him.
 
Matt Bachand said:
Did he ever sell them in NEW condition, or only "rebuilts"??
Click to expand...

I bought this one for the guy who owned the truck before me because he didnt have a credit card. You had to send them your old IP after you got the new one or they would charge you $100. The truck ran fine after it was put on. It did take them 30 days longer to get here then they said. They said they were backed up.
 
Could surely be glows, when 7 out of 8 of mine were bad it would take about 10 seconds of cranking to start it at 45F, and would get one huge puff of white smoke then it was clear.

Tomorrow morning you might try leaving it cold and disconnecting the cold advance wire. See how it starts.

I'd expect at 1 ohm all the glows you checked are functioning, if they are getting power during WTS. You can have someone turn key while you check on meter, or run the meter leads to the GP and ground and put meter in windshield to observe.
 
I rigged up a push button to run the glows so it would be easy to check for power getting to them. I'll have to do that tomorrow.
 
This sounds like atext book case of AIR getting in after sitting.

If the truck was hard starting and still is, the issue could be an external seal in the IP leaking and allowing fuel to drain back to the tank.

If the IP has a buttload of miles, the issues can be many. The injectors can be pretty well used up too

There are several places on a DB2 that can allow air to leak in. Throttle shaft is the biggy. Advance piston plunger.

How many miles ???


MGW
 
Missy Good Wench said:
This sounds like atext book case of AIR getting in after sitting.

If the truck was hard starting and still is, the issue could be an external seal in the IP leaking and allowing fuel to drain back to the tank.

If the IP has a buttload of miles, the issues can be many. The injectors can be pretty well used up too

There are several places on a DB2 that can allow air to leak in. Throttle shaft is the biggy. Advance piston plunger.

How many miles ???


MGW
Click to expand...

The IP probably has 500 miles on it. The truck has 235,000 on it but the engine looks new to me.

Im not going to start the truck today, Ill start it tomorrow with the block heater to see if it has a hard start. If it does then its probably not the glow plugs but I think it is.
 
Try starting it today with no block heater and no advance plugged in.

When the DB2 was installed was it timed? You have to use a crystal or something?
 
Its a one wire advance that goes to your coolant temp sensor I believe.

You might need an experienced mechanic to time the DB2 or do it yourself.
 
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