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How far is too far ????

S

Sheanster27

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Ok so call me crazy but I'm a diesel tech and know my way around the 6.5 diesel all to well I have owned many and done small mods but I want to go BIG custom girdle studded bottom and head studs oring the deck I want to do this all in a 6.2 red block with forged steel crank optimizer heads custom stainless headers and a 7.3 diesel turbo or similar water injection and probably a ds4 have not desided if I'm going to look for a difrent inj set up any ideas let me know I want to know if this is worth doing or if I should just seek out a p400 and build that thanks !!!!
 
Finding a p400 is the problem. I would have liked to pick one up before they become discontinued, but it was hard to come up with that amout of cash at one time. So I've been slowly piecing together my optimizer build. Which is very similar to what your trying to do.

2010 NA optimizer long block
P400 forged crank
P400 rods
P400 pistons
Going to be main and head studded with a custom girdle.
Custom S300 centermount
Custom Big bore DB2 that I'm building in house with my custom machined injectors.

Also the optimizer crank is not forged. Its a standard cast crank. Some say its made from a better cast material. But ive seen proof of that. The p400 rotating fits in a 506 block but get ready to drop $5k for it. And if your going to stick with a DS4 look into the 6033 pump. It can get you to the 400hp mark. Need custom tuning from Quadstar to run it though.

In my opinion you have to be slightly crazy to put serious money into a 6.5. You can build a Cummins for more power, cheaper, and be alot more reliable. But 6.5 are different and its fun to build underdog power plants🤘🤘
 
Well like Rockabillyrat said their are better internal parts to be had by way of P400 parts, splayed main caps, I offer them, they are much stronger and move the stress in the crank area away from the thin part of the block. As for heads, hands down are the P400 heads, yes they are a different casting from ALL others, but again they aren't cheap, I also have a set in stock..

The P400 may or may not become available again at some point but all the parts can be purchased just not a bare block...

And a properly specked engine build can be a 400+ HP unit, but for it to survive nothing can be overlooked, you won't get close to those numbers with bolt on stuff....

Good luck with your build...
 
I understand this is not going to be cheap and as far as crank goes I was thinking going with a scar crank and injection set ups any one ever thought of putting 2 inline 4 injection pumps in a custom gear case and runing that then you would have all the fuel you could ever want and then some I want to make 400 plus hp but I also want it to live would 18:1 pistons be worth the money or do I just deck the pistons ten thousands and use stock also what do I do for BIG con rods I want it to turn 5000 rpm or better I know I'm crazy but go big or go game I want to me cummins guys wish they have a 6.5 diesel
 
best is get all the p400 lower end. Scat is an ok second choice.
Personally I am not fond of splayed mains, but they are better than nothing. A full girdle is best.

On the pistons- NO dont just shave em. There’s threads on here and other places about it. Just shovel your cash to Chris for his machined pistons and at 18:1 you get the valve reliefs too.

And the proper order is to get lower rotating assembly balanced, then coated, then chryo. If coated first you might need touchup under pistons where metal gets removed.
 
Will L. said:
best is get all the p400 lower end. Scat is an ok second choice.
Personally I am not fond of splayed mains, but they are better than nothing. A full girdle is best.

On the pistons- NO dont just shave em. There’s threads on here and other places about it. Just shovel your cash to Chris for his machined pistons and at 18:1 you get the valve reliefs too.

And the proper order is to get lower rotating assembly balanced, then coated, then chryo. If coated first you might need touchup under pistons where metal gets removed.
Click to expand...
Okay thank you I have heard from others builders the chryo treatment is not worth what you pay idk how solid that info is but ho is not cheap in a 6.5 diesel amd would a optimizer block be better than a 660 red block with the supposed "high nickle" in the casting???? I dont think any block other than p400 im running a solid girttle in mine to help stop cracks and for the most strength I can get
 
Chryo is gonna cost. You are buying strength. Send basically every dang part you can other than rubber seals. Pay to play.

I believe optimizer over 660. Especially because it can be had brand new.
People argue one with miles is better - but top NHRA, NASCAR, F1- no one takes a new block and runs it for miles to make it better.

a ‘solid’ or full girdle Has a massive difference, both in cost and reliability.
 
Will L. said:
Chryo is gonna cost. You are buying strength. Send basically every dang part you can other than rubber seals. Pay to play.

I believe optimizer over 660. Especially because it can be had brand new.
People argue one with miles is better - but top NHRA, NASCAR, F1- no one takes a new block and runs it for miles to make it better.

a ‘solid’ or full girdle Has a massive difference, both in cost and reliability.
Click to expand...
I know cost for the girdle is going to be expensive but I'm planning on making my own and as for as my 660 block it is brand new only has 500 miles on it from a military unit so low miles and always well maintained and can or would you port out factory heads and put biger valves in and open chambers up for a compression reduction ther ???
 
@Sheanster27 I didn’t realize you already had the block. Run the one you have. It’s not like the optimizer is going to be 50% better. I thought you would be spending new money in one. To get one with crazy low miles- heck yeah run it! Low mileage old blocks like the machine work. It’s like a good message! Haha

@Twisted Steel Performance Some anxious folks waiting for that build thread of yours!
 
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