How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

[Will L.]

Each trip has a little adventure. Hopefully that’s enough for this one.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Well boys, made it to Minnesota finally, in one tank from SD aswell. Got that damn endcap replaced aswell.

Been crusin at 65-75 the entire way, hows the mileage looking?

Odometer: 289888

 

[dbrannon79]

Looking good. drive safe out there on those icy roads.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Looking good. drive safe out there on those icy roads.

Yeah...I saw a semi jack knifed in a ditch with the driver outside inspecting, I immediately slowed down (was literally only doing 60) and even then it still did a Lil zig-zag. I called it a night right then and there, currently in a hotel right now.

Theres plugs here thankfully, unfortunately though, there are none that are available.

Bought this for the 6.2 btw. Is it a good one? Room short? Didn't even open it yet so if its not a decent one, lmk and ill replace.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

10°F Cold Start

New video · Thursday, Jan 22 ð¬

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[Will L.]

Yes, 12 awg is the smallest you want. If going 100’ then go up to 10 awg.

Your cold starts- cycle the key a few times:

Turn key on until glow plug light goes out. Turn key off, quickly Turn key on until glow plug light goes out. Turn key off. Quickly Turn key on until glow plug light goes out.NOW CRANK ENGINE.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Made it to Wisconsin, currently headed to Milwaukee, though i stopped over at Madison.

I literally just filled up now, from Fairmont to Madison, these are the stats

From Milwaukee ill go on to Chicago, honestly cant wait, got many head nods and questions when i rolled up in this wherever i went, hopefully things keep going smoothly

Odometer: 290289

 

[MrMarty51]

Made it to Wisconsin, currently headed to Milwaukee, though i stopped over at Madison.

I literally just filled up now, from Fairmont to Madison, these are the stats

From Milwaukee ill go on to Chicago, honestly cant wait, got many head nods and questions when i rolled up in this wherever i went, hopefully things keep going smoothly

Odometer: 290289
View attachment 97691
View attachment 97690

That started quite easy.
I hope where ever You land that they use no car remover on the roads.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

That started quite easy.
I hope where ever You land that they use no car remover on the roads.

So much salt in MN, i desperately need to wash it this morning.

NY does use salt, ill be forced to get it undercoated, doesnt help that im right there by the coast, the sea salt will EAT it.

(Pic unrelated, Milwaukee is pretty nice. Next stop is Chicago)

 

[MrMarty51]

So much salt in MN, i desperately need to wash it this morning.

NY does use salt, ill be forced to get it undercoated, doesnt help that im right there by the coast, the sea salt will EAT it.

(Pic unrelated, Milwaukee is pretty nice. Next stop is Chicago)
View attachment 97694

Just send that old beast over to Me, I’ll keep it safe from all them metal eating cancerous components.

 

[dbrannon79]

I'm still wondering why your glow plug light cycles on and off with the key on. to me something isn't right like maybe the GP controller is tripping. Maybe @Will L. can provide some info on that.

 

[MrMarty51]

I'm still wondering why your glow plug light cycles on and off with the key on. to me something isn't right like maybe the GP controller is tripping. Maybe @Will L. can provide some info on that.

I was wondering if it is that temperature probe from the back of the RH cylinder head that has the wire terminal broke off of.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Dear Lord. Its -14°F
Thank God I had it plugged in

New video · Friday, Jan 23 ð¬

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[jrsavoie]

I was wondering if it is that temperature probe from the back of the RH cylinder head that has the wire terminal broke off of.

Seems to.me, I had an issue there on the 1989. That unplugging that sensor told the truck it was cold and let things work right until something was fixed. There's probably a thread about it on.one of the forums.
That probably would have been the diesel page back then.

 

[Will L.]

Yes- that rear temperature sensor with the two wires- this is its job:
1. Tells glow controller how long to run
2. Tells db2 to advance timing for easier start and get fuel in the cylinder sooner since it all isn’t burning away yet.
3. Tells throttle advance solenoid to hold the idle slightly higher.

How it actually works is temperature change alters ohms.

If you didn’t change that sensor yet- that explains a TON. The normal operation is those two wires go from no connection to partial connection to 100% connection.
It WILL NOT HURT to try a jumper wire for cold starts.

In the oldest 6.2 there was a temperature inhibiting method that when it we t bad you lost function of glow plugs completely iirc that could be the case here. But bypassing the temperature switch that broke- I am 90% sure you jumper them together to force a cold start- but it is possible it’s a be other way around.

What ya do is jumper the two wires in the harness with a short piece of scrap wire, 12awg preferably. And if you have a couple male spade connectors- crimp them on and you can plug them in. Then start the truck. Once it’s up to 160° unplug the jumper wire. You should see the difference INSTANTLY by glow plugs cycling on longer.

 

[Will L.]

Holy light bulb moment Batman!

Remember when the hard starting and extra smoke in the morning began?
The day after that switch got broke is my bet. I was focused on that you got it hot.

Betcha that is the hard start & smoke show the whole time- not counting the battery/alternator death. Those helped too.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Of course we all put this together once im away from those who could help , im currently about to head to Detroit as of now

Cant believe we actually found out why I had so many hard starts and smoke in the beginning, it actually makes sense

 

[Will L.]

Did you connect them & try it?

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Did you connect them & try it?

I tried to actually, the end of the wire is distorted since its been against the motor block (heat just melted/deformed it). Couldnt even get the wire back in the sensor if i wanted to

 

[jrsavoie]

Yes- that rear temperature sensor with the two wires- this is its job:
1. Tells glow controller how long to run
2. Tells db2 to advance timing for easier start and get fuel in the cylinder sooner since it all isn’t burning away yet.
3. Tells throttle advance solenoid to hold the idle slightly higher.

How it actually works is temperature change alters ohms.

If you didn’t change that sensor yet- that explains a TON. The normal operation is those two wires go from no connection to partial connection to 100% connection.
It WILL NOT HURT to try a jumper wire for cold starts.

In the oldest 6.2 there was a temperature inhibiting method that when it we t bad you lost function of glow plugs completely iirc that could be the case here. But bypassing the temperature switch that broke- I am 90% sure you jumper them together to force a cold start- but it is possible it’s a be other way around.

What ya do is jumper the two wires in the harness with a short piece of scrap wire, 12awg preferably. And if you have a couple male spade connectors- crimp them on and you can plug them in. Then start the truck. Once it’s up to 160° unplug the jumper wire. You should see the difference INSTANTLY by glow plugs cycling on longer.

I was thinking it worked the other way on the 1989. That, if you pulled the plug, it would cycle longer.
But that's been since about 1993 or so that I had that issue. Definitely before we had the 1995 Tahoe. At that time it was the only GMT400 diesel we had.