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How can you tell if the timing is too far advanced?

s-mack said:
A way to check if timing is too far advanced is to push in on the adance lever when the engine is up to running temp. If the engine slows and stumbles it's set properly. If the engine just slows then it's advanced too far. If you get no change then your advance isn't working and neither will the test.
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Crap, no change, :mad2:

That explains why sometimes it goes like a raped ape and most times, it doesn't, :(
 
s-mack said:
A way to check if timing is too far advanced is to push in on the adance lever when the engine is up to running temp. If the engine slows and stumbles it's set properly. If the engine just slows then it's advanced too far. If you get no change then your advance isn't working and neither will the test.
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Just to add to this, don't do this at idle, slim shady said get the revs up, I did and sure enough, it stumbles so mine is working.
 
Well I don't have a timing tool but he seemed to do his timing at 1400RPM so that's probably the spot for this test as well
 
turbovanman said:
1800 ish, don't have a tach.



Good info, wonder what 8 BTDC deg on an N/A would do? :eek: Going to phone around and see if anyone has a timing light I can borrow.
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They change timing for altitude. Mainly for less black smoke up there… I forget what we did to the old 6.2 in Colorado but after the altitude adjustment it smoked white more. So your elevation plays a big part in a NA diesel timing.
 
I have a question I just picked up a M1009 and it ran like crap when I got it I have gotten it to where it runs okay My timing is set similar to what Iamdave has his set at maybe a little less but it is not marbly at all at idle it is very quiet for a 6.2 I think.

Do I need to advance it more? when I was advancing it it felt like it didn't want to turn anymore is there a bracket or something that needs to be loosened
 
A friends ex-military blazer(i'm guessing that's the M1009?) had almost no rattle to it at idle. I bumped his timing up a tad to the driver's side, to match mine, and his was still much quieter. Couldn't tell you why it was so quiet. Granted he had the factory exhaust on his, over mine which has Magnaflows on it, but that wouldn't change the sound of the rattle I'd figure.

His truck has no sound deadening on the firewall and hood, and mine does, yet i can easily tell mine's a diesel from a good bit away and from about 20 feet away you can barely hear his truck running. :confused5:
 
Does your's have the Egr hooked up still?


I think I may have a bad pump I drove it to work today 30 miles started out running okay the longer I drove it started losing power I checked the advance lever and when pushing on it it makes no difference to how the motor runs.

I don't know what else it could be the truck didn't run due to a broken flywheel when I got it but I don't think a 6.2 should run this bad
 
Nope. EGR deleted, and EPR disabled. There's no functioning emissions crap on that truck, just like it should've been from the factory. It runs 10x better with the non-EGR single plane intake, and smokes much much less. It used to smoke like all hell with the C code intake, even with the EGR disabled.

Try having someone bring the RPM to about 1100-1200(if you have a tach) and then press the advance in again with a screwdriver(i personally wouldn't lean over the fan as i've been bit by mine but thankfully didn't loose my hand).

Does the advance move in and out freely? The main failure i've seen for the advance setup is an inwards sticking advance piston.

Your pump could be bad. That's never something to rule out.
 
Well the return fitting clogged up again within 40 miles so she definitely needs a pump
 
wonder if the gov. weight retainer ring in the pump is coming apart on you? The old ones were some kind of plastic i believe and they would slowly fall apart and plug up all the passages in the pump. The replacement ring that Stanadyne used is an "EID"(no idea what it stands for as i'm too tired to check:eek:) ring that doesn't suffer from the "falling to pieces" problem.
 
What you are describing is definately a pump thats taking the big poop.

Get the IP reworked by a good shop along with the injectors too.

Once the pop pressure of the injectors falls off very far the rattle goes away.

Good bet that the pop pressure is down to around 1000 PSI and the injectors are peeing a stream.

The updated parts for the IP gets rid of the "FLEX RING" in the governor and along with it the issues they had.


Missy
 
Yep, sounds like an IP to me too. Probably start blowing nasty grey fuel stinkin smoke soon. Stay away from cheap rebuilds. expect to pay 400$ + for a decent one. Stay away from Pensacola. They are dumping nothing but shit out on eBay.
 
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