Hints, tips, tricks on replacing Crank Position Sensor on a '95 Tahoe?

[TurboTahoe]

Hi guys,

You have been following my saga http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?43078-So-I-m-minding-my-own-business-and-I-get-a-code-88-error-TDC-Offset-Error regarding getting a TDC Offset Error.

One of our valued members (MissyGoodWrench) suggested that the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) might be malfunctioning. I'm looking at possibly replacing it.

OK, I think I see the CPS down behind the power steering pump. It appears the Factory Service Manual (See attachment) calls for the power steering pump to be removed... Is that truly necessary? It's tight, but I can see how you can get in there and pop the bolt out and then wrestle the sensor out.. it doesn't look like the power steering pump is attached to the CPS in any way...

Thanks,

Rob

 

[Will L.]

The cps does not connect to the power steering. There is the one electrical plug to disconnect, one bolt to remove. Then it pulls straight out (well you might find that rotating it back and forth helps free it). Take a can of brake cleaner and spray and wipe the 2" around the area before removing it just to keep from knocking debris in the hole.

The only reason for removing the power steering pump is if there is not enough room to pull it out. I would try removing it without the power steering pump first. If you can't get it, just slide it back in and move what you have to. Buy the new one first and hold it in place above the current one, that should show you if there is room.

Be careful removing the old one incase that is not the problem, then you will have the new one installed and a known good spare for future diagnostics.

 

[Big T]

No need to remove the power steering pump to get the CPS out. If it's original, the bracket will probably come off the CPS. Use a screw driver to pry it out while pulling on the wires. New CPS is like $50 or less.

 

[bison]

Be careful with prying it out , they break easy, ..the 0 ring on that thing can be really sticking in there and it is deep down in the bore.
If you need to pry then do it on both sides at the same time, once the 0 ring breaks loose it'll slide right out.

 

[Missy Good Wench]

As mentioned "These sensors break EASY"

There is no tried and true/guaranteed method to get these out without breaking them, but care and some wiggling will usually work.



I have had to on occasion, resort to a coarse screw threaded tool on a small slide hammer to get them out.

As far as removing the PS PUMP goes ????
If the sensor slides right out, and generally after any appreciable time in there, they don't, getting the pump out of the way can help.

Get the fan shroud off and remove the pump and lay it down front (hoses connected)

Even getting the fan out of the way can make room to work in there if the sensor becomes a little A$$hole to get loose.

When the sensor is out, clean the hole well with some scotch bright wrapped around a dowel (stick) to remove the crud that will be in there.
Wipe out with a clean rag soaked in brake kleen.

Slobber the shaft of the new sensor with silver never seaze then slide in.

Here is a piccy of the area that I just snapped.

Since my Radiator and stuff is not in yet, it was a great opportunity to capture a good piccy.

The more room you have to work, the better chance of getting the sensor out in one piece.

Breaking it off down in the cover SUCKS

 

[Big T]

If the fan and stuff are in place, the better angle of attack is from underneath the truck and coming up and from behind. It no matter if you destroy it getting it out, you're replacing it anyway.

 

[Missy Good Wench]

The underneath area is damned cluttered.

The best way is from the top/front with the extra stuff out of the way.

IF the little sucker will come right out, you can do it easily from several angles, but to date I have never had a used one that's been in there a long time come out without a fight.

 

[bison]

If the fan and stuff are in place, the better angle of attack is from underneath the truck and coming up and from behind. It no matter if youdestroy it getting it out, you're replacing it anyway.

If it breaks you're Effed. You can't drill an hole in the stub and tread a screw in there cause it'll just spin around in the bore.BTDT.

 

[Big T]

If it breaks you're Effed. You can't drill an hole in the stub and tread a screw in there cause it'll just spin around in the bore.BTDT.

Broken them before and got them out. Not hard at all. The plastic softens with time and exposure to oil.

 

[bison]

yeah i got it out too ....trough the inside...after taking the timing cover off,. lol

But some people get lucky

 

[Missy Good Wench]

Best way is care and coaxing. :hihi:

 

[WarWagon]

Do it the WarWagon way!
1) Remove blown engine.
2) While transferring timing cover to another longblock remove bolt, break off tab, then pound CPS out from inside of the cover.
3) Replace timing chain because you are there anyway.
4) Install engine.

 

[TurboTahoe]

Do it the WarWagon way!
1) Remove blown engine.
2) While transferring timing cover to another longblock remove bolt, break off tab, then pound CPS out from inside of the cover.
3) Replace timing chain because you are there anyway.
4) Install engine.

Thanks, that's brilliant!

-Rob

 

[Big T]

Do it the WarWagon way!
1) Remove blown engine.
2) While transferring timing cover to another longblock remove bolt, break off tab, then pound CPS out from inside of the cover.
3) Replace timing chain because you are there anyway.
4) Install engine.

The old Cave Man approach. Love it.

 

[Missy Good Wench]

Yup

Large club applied liberally :WTF:

 

[Paveltolz]

The manual says to remove the PS pump so you can bill the customer the hours to do so. That and it would allow for more room to coax the sucker out.

 

[Missy Good Wench]

That's about it

Three nuts and one bolt to get the pump off, pretty easy.

Room is a good thing :smile5:

 

[bison]

That's about it

Three nuts and one bolt to get the pump off, pretty easy.

Room is a good thing :smile5:

Thatta 1 bolt ain't that easy to get at and can cost a fair chunk of hide

 

[Pruittx2]

I removed upper shroud, and then used a 1/4 in air ratchet and a 10mm socket. reaching around the fan/belt. I didn't even think of removing the ps pump. and I payed around $75 at the dealer for a new ac Delco unit. It went faster then I thought it was gonna,,

 

[Missy Good Wench]

The only bolt is the one on the side of the block, and its easy as pie, with no need to loose hide.

Remove the LH front wheel tire (Support truck) remove rubber flap on inner fender and the bolt in question is in plain view.

Use a long extension and a wiggle socket on you 3/8 drive ratchet and its a done deal.

Missy