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High stall converters with large turbo.

THEFERMANATOR said:
I believe it is only a few dollars more for the billet piston VS a stock cast piston. Haven't looked in awhile, but it used to be around $300-350 for the billet piston model VS the $250-300 for a stocker.
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I was kinda more interested in what the benefit was. Meaning, was it worth the extra $$. Is it stronger?
 
sshewins said:
I was kinda more interested in what the benefit was. Meaning, was it worth the extra $$. Is it stronger?
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A cast stamped piston is known to warp and flex rather easily under pressure whereas the billet piston won't. When the piston flex's you don't get an even apply of the converter clutch which means your only using part of your clutch. The billet apply piston allows it to get a more even apply of the clutch which allows you to use more of the clutches holding power. For a 6.5 I would say a single disc with a billet piston is all you will need(no need to step up to a triple disc).
 
Sonnex makes the billet piston. I had a local converter shop build me a low stall with the billet piston. It didn't break,just was to tight for the 6.2 . It worked great for the 6.5 which had better low end torque.
 
sshewins said:
Where can one obtain a Transtar T/C?

Never mind, I just googled them. Appears there is a dealer in Addison, which is fairly close to me.

Jorge, what model did you get? Was is the GM 81 BP? Description of the T/C says it has 1800-2000 stall.

Ferminator, I can't tell from catalog if there is any other difference other than the billet part. Same stall, spline, height, etc.. Is it really worth whatever price diff over stock clutch piston?
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I don't remember the model number for the converter but I only paid $275 for it a little over a year ago.

Give Transtar a call, they will fill you in on pricing for the two available converters along with the model number. There is also a core charge for the old converter.

You will not be disappointed with the billet piston converter
 
So Ferm, which one are you referring to when you say Precision's Transtar T/C?

When I Google Transtar torque converter this is the site I get: http://transtartorqueconverter.com/

When I Google Precision Industries this is the site I get, but find no mention of a Transtar Torque Converter: http://www.converter.com/

As the 4L80E in my '98 K2500 Burb has 215K on it, apparently without any work done to it previously as the vehicle's maintenance history prior to me is unknown (and is showing its age and mileage by feeling a little loose on the shifts with a slight hesitation on the 1-2 upshift and the occasional "floater" in the fluid which still remains mainly cherry red) I'm planning on rebuilding it with all the right parts (Kolene steels, Red Alto clutches, Kevlar bands, new solenoids, wiring harness, HD sprag assembly, etc.) so I also want to put a decent torque converter in it designed for a 6.5 with mild performance programming upgrades and an ATT/HX40II turbo on it that will see 4x4 runs in the snow at highway speeds, towing 2K-5K trailers at 75 mph+ Interstate speeds. I'm not impressed so far with either the prices vs. the product of manufacturers like TCI or Hughes or B&M.

So, does Precision Industries in Tennessee make a converter they call the Transtar, or will Precision make a custom converter for the 4L80E diesel app, or was it a Transtar converter from the first link that you had recommended, or am I confused in what you were saying back near the beginning of the thread and having another over 50 moment:WTF:?
 
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Husker6.5 said:
So Ferm, which one are you referring to when you say Precision's Transtar T/C?

When I Google Transtar torque converter this is the site I get: http://transtartorqueconverter.com/

When I Google Precision Industries this is the site I get, but find no mention of a Transtar Torque Converter: http://www.converter.com/

As the 4L80E in my '98 K2500 Burb has 215K on it, apparently without any work done to it previously as the vehicle's maintenance history prior to me is unknown (and is showing its age and mileage by feeling a little loose on the shifts with a slight hesitation on the 1-2 upshift and the occasional "floater" in the fluid which still remains mainly cherry red) I'm planning on rebuilding it with all the right parts (Kolene steels, Red Alto clutches, Kevlar bands, new solenoids, wiring harness, HD sprag assembly, etc.) so I also want to put a decent torque converter in it designed for a 6.5 with mild performance programming upgrades and an ATT/HX40II turbo on it that will see 4x4 runs in the snow at highway speeds, towing 2K-5K trailers at 75 mph+ Interstate speeds. I'm not impressed so far with either the prices vs. the product of manufacturers like TCI or Hughes or B&M.

So, does Precision Industries in Tennessee make a converter they call the Transtar, or will Precision make a custom converter for the 4L80E diesel app, or was it a Transtar converter from the first link that you had recommended, or am I confused in what you were saying back near the beginning of the thread and having another over 50 moment:WTF:?
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The 2nd link to PRECISION INDUSTRIES builds top notch converters, the first link to precision of new Hampton builds crap I wouldn't put into a junker. TRANSTAR industries builds a good upgrade for a 6.5 as they honestly don't need a full on billet converter as a 6.5 just doesn't make that kind of bottom end grunt without putting your crank into the danger zone. Heres the link to there site http://www.transtar1.com/ . For the 6.5 upt to 97 the GM81-BP is the TRANSTAR converter to go with, and for the 98+ the GM88-BP is the one. It is a 1800-2000 RPM stall unit for the 6.5 and 7.4.
 
Thanks, Ferm. So go with a billet apply piston for the lock-up clutch in the converter, but it's not absolutely necessary to go with a billet front cover on the converter because 500-600 lb/ft of torque doesn't really necessitate it, is what you're saying? Like the decks I used to build when I had my construction business, I feel better in over building beyond minimum code requirements for that extra "just in case" fudge factor. I want to lean towards going with a full billet front cover and apply piston so that there is even, equal pressure on ALL of the clutch surface to negate any opportunity for slippage under load. Down side is that the nearest dealer for their TC's in three hours away in Kansas City. Good news is that their location is less than a mile away from a great biker and Blues bar called Knucklehead's in K.C. that I've been to before.
 
Most any large trans shop deals in TRANSTAR as they are one of the biggest aftermarket trans parts suppliers out there. The billet cover is nice, but just really not needed for the torque of a 6.5.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Most any large trans shop deals in TRANSTAR as they are one of the biggest aftermarket trans parts suppliers out there. The billet cover is nice, but just really not needed for the torque of a 6.5.
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With a manual lock up switch the TCC clutch is good for 50K of towing hard at the limits of a GM3 turbo. More power adders like a bigger turbo are going to reduce this figure. There are very few who use a 6.5 this hard so the above advice is sound. Those who do run hard towing would benefit from a better TCC clutch including the billet cover.

Towing hard is locking the TCC at WOT. The ECM will do this in 3rd gear after some time at WOT in 3rd so a TCC override switch doesn't make a difference. You need a grade that goes for miles for the ECM to lock at WOT.

The other weak point is the manual 2nd gear overrun clutches.
 
WarWagon said:
With a manual lock up switch the TCC clutch is good for 50K of towing hard at the limits of a GM3 turbo. More power adders like a bigger turbo are going to reduce this figure. There are very few who use a 6.5 this hard so the above advice is sound. Those who do run hard towing would benefit from a better TCC clutch including the billet cover.

Towing hard is locking the TCC at WOT. The ECM will do this in 3rd gear after some time at WOT in 3rd so a TCC override switch doesn't make a difference. You need a grade that goes for miles for the ECM to lock at WOT.

The other weak point is the manual 2nd gear overrun clutches.
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With my '98, a TCC lock up switch isn't an option. But, some judicious reprograming of the ECM can lower the TCC lock points in 3rd and OD, as well as lower the upshift points for the other gears. The weak links can be addressed by using TH400 racing parts for the 2nd sprag assy and going with the 34, or even a 36, element sprag over the stock one. I plan on using a 34 element along with the aforementioned upgrades earlier in the thread, when I rebuild the tranny at my local shop.
 
$300 for a billet converter? Holy shit that's cheap. I paid $600 for a Hugh's converter for my turbo Caravan and smoked it in under a month, :mad2: Going to look at a converter next year for the big van.
 
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