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Help w/ oil pump drive?

Will L.

Will L.

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Adding center mount turbo, hummer uses same gm6 as a van.
The oil pump drive on the n/a 6.5 has a sensor on top for generating a signal to the trans control module (no PCM).
My donor engine has crank sensor, can I use this for the signal and if so how? Crank sensor has 3 wire, oil pump drive has 2 wire. Thanks
 
The ESS/oil pump drive combo is very low profile. I'd be supprized if it interferes with turbo fitment. The ESS I have in mind is like on the 92-93 6.5s
I can say that the ESS produces 8 pluses per cam revolution. So a crank trigger would need 4. I went though this same thing on my Cummins swap. I used a trans speed sensor and machined 3 addition grooves in balancer to send signal to the TCM.
 
The crank reluctor wheel is a 4 tooth for a DS equipped truck, so he may be able to swap over to a timing cover and crank sensor from a 94+ truck with the crank sensor in the cover.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
The crank reluctor wheel is a 4 tooth for a DS equipped truck, so he may be able to swap over to a timing cover and crank sensor from a 94+ truck with the crank sensor in the cover.
Click to expand...

This would work.

How are you adding centermount? Are you using the van/hummer block that was designed for the centermount?
 
Yeah Ferm, sounds like it cold be made to work then.
ESS is 3 wire. I dont remember the wire config on ESS, but its probably something like - , + and a signal wire? If so what does the CPS have?
 
Yes centermount turbo, clearance is the problem. If it is 8 pulses that is too perfect! I just need to figure out the 3 wire 2 wire thing and I'm good to go. I bought a gm hei pick up to read/power at the crank sensor if need- like you would to run an aftermarket tach. I bought (from a hummer dealership $OUCH) a long block 2004 ish. I was told at the time it was turbo block, but no oil ports for the turbo so out comes a drill and build a jig to drill at proper angle. Idk if n/a or truck block was sold to me. Only 35k miles on 506 block, dropped oil pressure, so figuring out/fixing (cam brgs suspect) first then drill.
Worst case is rebuild donor engine.
 
Have you ever noticed the 2 threaded mounts and the milled flat spot between them inbetween your ops and the oil pump drive on you engine and wondered y it's there? The turbo mounts flush to that and has 2 holes 1 from the oil galley the other dumps to the cam area. The gm6 turbo mount flush with a figure 8 type oring seal and gets feed & supply there. If you ever get a donor block from a turbo van you'll have to build a metal block off plate to stop the oil there.

I was close to remote mounting a turbo @ rear of truck for some time to avoid these hassles but found a good donor in Mesa a few months back and well..I'm just not smart enough to go with my 1st instinct all the time.
 
Will L. said:
Have you ever noticed the 2 threaded mounts and the milled flat spot between them inbetween your ops and the oil pump drive on you engine and wondered y it's there? The turbo mounts flush to that and has 2 holes 1 from the oil galley the other dumps to the cam area. The gm6 turbo mount flush with a figure 8 type oring seal and gets feed & supply there. If you ever get a donor block from a turbo van you'll have to build a metal block off plate to stop the oil there.

I was close to remote mounting a turbo @ rear of truck for some time to avoid these hassles but found a good donor in Mesa a few months back and well..I'm just not smart enough to go with my 1st instinct all the time.
Click to expand...

Very nice! I've got a 2000 van i am working on at the moment and at the moment it will spin the tires on takeoff and easily outruns a 6.5 in a pickup.
 
If you have a naturally aspirated engine and heads, then teh centermount turbo intake will not bolt up to them. The van/hummer engines with the center mount turbo use differrent intake bolt angles than the trucks and N/A intakes do. So feeding oil to it is the least of your concern. The N/A engine is the same as the truck engine except it doesn't have coated pistons. The turbo van/hummer engine is teh same shortblock with differrent heads for the canted intake bolts.
 
Ugg! Learn something new everyday, I was hoping too learn the lottery numbers but you had to teach me that! Family

emergency pulls me away from truck for a bit but engine currently hanging on 3 bell housing bolts ready to come out.

When I get back to it I know the next thing to look at and possibly order new lower brgs and rings for the 99 engine.

Even if I go that way I still have to solve 2/3 wire issue. I was hoping to run the optimizer long block The saga continues-

thanks for the help all.
 
You can swap the heads from a turbo'd van/hummer engine to your optimiser short block and run it that way.
 
On freeway and notice pressure down 20 lower than normal, pulled off to check oil level etc. notice idle level went from 20 down to 5. I just now pulled out cam and #3 spun in the block. Cam shows wear on #2&#4,front and rear are perfect. Still had 5 maybe 7 psi @ idle and center cam brg spins but in acceptable spec of oil pressure. 35000 miles on factory new optimzer long block. Not feeling my gm love tonight. High rpm oil pressure was always 78 it fell to 60 when brg spun. Have to see if block is useable.
 
Update: Still haven't figure the 3 wire /2 wire thing yet.

Intake problem, friend helping me is laughing because he had similar problem at work yesterday in titanium foundry and said here is the awnser-

Buy grade 8 threaed rod, cut 6" pieces for inintake studs, heat and bend straight up, cut to lenght. Remove re-heat treat and reinstall. Will have to chamfer intake mount holes to clear

radius of studs, but thats a good excuse to gasket match ports while on the bench and die grinder is out.

Porting for oil supply and return took 1 1/2 hours total. Next a bearing dilema I started new thread for.

Thanks for the help, everyone.
 
Just want to add this if anyone needs info in the future.

Crank sensor / ess problem: I couldn't find a correct 2 wire sensor so - out of a 97 Mazda b3000 with Ford 3.0 engine I took that 2 wire cps sensor cut off the mounting tabs and ground the end of the sensor down so it would fit in the hole. Then solder wires on the contacts and used 3m - 2 part rubber epoxy to form the back of the sensor and to mount the gm cps mounting tab to the new sensor. I had to use a oring 1 size larger than normal for the ford sensor and my ess has been replaced successfully. Definitely pull the timing cover off to make the modified senseor fit properly.

Making the intake studs worked well except for the very front and very rear locations. It tended to pull the manifolds down toward the valley to much. I cut off the last mounting hole and welded on new mounting ears that were just like the regular truck intake manifold.

Again thanks for the help everyone.
 
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