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help start die start die starts then white smoke unplug cts boom starts no problem

ok, ran for a day with stepper off saw no difference at all, plugged it back in and same deal hard start and smoke, so just to make my life easy Im gonna replace whole IP seems like more money but It solves lots of problems at once there seems to be many issues with this IP and I have no history on suburban other than the people I bought it from told me it was cherry but motor blew, later finding out many issues,front end, heater,window broke, almost all electric controls in window controls toast, so my dream of buying a 1000$ gem and telling the wife a used motor and we would be cruzing, lol, now Im like 4500 into it now its 90% cherry and looking at 599$ for a IP pump from ss diesel so all said and done could have bought a runner for 5000$, but where is the fun in that!!!! so without knowing what is telling the stepper motor to advance or possibly being stepper motor seems logical to replace IP and solve many issues at once and know what I have and know that there is some life ahead of it. Nothin worse than telling wife to take rig out and having it fail on her, not a place she or me wants to be, so Ill bite the bullet and replace IP gonna order tomorrow
 
by the way Brooklyn tow I used to to for a job, and had My own tow truck and business, loved it, was the most fun I ever had in a job!!! was always the hero, good fun
 
just seemed to be good price, for a rebuild, got any suggestions, seems alot of people rag on the ebay bunch, im all for a good deal but i also know you get what u pay for, hit me with some options, im not gonna choke the new price too much!!
 
not too sure about buying a pump from ssdiesel, I would try a local ip rebuild shop so you can get customer support if you do need it. ssdiesel makes has some good stuff but sometimes the quality is hit and miss
 
help guys! replaced pump got running last night, took it for spin around block, went to bed, this morning took son to school started hard like lack of fuel but after third crank with some peddle started but same blue-white cloud till it got warm, got back to it today started very hard seeming to be starving and once fired up same cloud, Ive checked all grounds, opened gas cap thinking mabye plugged and not venting, have clear line on return and no bubbles, have while running turned fuel t-valve on and lots of fuel, so any thoughts? once warm fires like new boom! does the computer have to start over and reprogram? noticed that motor sounds quieter not so knocky
 
shop called gear head in wasilla across from church on the rock, I could do if I had scan tool my uncle has one but he is anchor point, and I'm in palmer, I asked "Santa" for a scan tool for Xmas but I guess I was to naughty lol, no real reason is wife couldn't see spending 700 for my present, I'll get one this summer after I get working again. been on the wish list for a
while and not just a cheepo shucks code reader. my uncles snap on modius is awesome!! saw one on snap on truck for 700
he told me it was solis I think?
 
can anyone tell me why after replacing IP it doesn't sound so rattely before it shook and clattered but I notice a differance even the wife inside the house commented on how it was quiter
 
got timing set I think, he hooked up tech 2 and we both looked at it it said on all data that optimum was 0 to 5, at that range suburban wouldnt hardly run, and would die but at 10 it ran really good so we left it there, I think in the process of removing timing gears and 6.5 crank sensor stuff and adding to my 6.2 i might have skipped a tooth that would be the only thing I can think of, unless there is a process that im unaware of what your thought, ak diesel driver is there something i missed?
 
Did you replace the Crank Position Sensor? If you reused the old one was the sensor and bracket all one piece or were they two separate pieces? If the sensor came apart from bracket you can put it back 4 different ways and only 1 way is correct. Timing the gears you align the crank dot to 12 o'clock and cam at 6 o'clock, then turn crank 1 revolution so cam is at 12 o'clock then align pump dot at 6 o'clock. IP to housing needed to be marked with a reference line and new IP referenced the same (close, is fuel shut off valve straight up) I have a thread a ways back that you can check by putting the crank at TDC and checking the IP gear pin (which is aligned to IP dot) to see if it is straight up. This can be done by removing the oil filler tube, if you can see the IP gear pin turn crank 1 full revolution and look again.

Note if you don't have a pointer for the Harmonic Balancer line (a lot of 6.5 don't) align HB line with the lower hole of where the pointer would be mounted. My post is http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?32613-Injection-Pump-timing-problem and post #5 shows the pin that I referenced to you. It should be straight up when Crank is at TDC on #1 cylinder
 
isnt crank sensor with bottom timing gear, i cant remember, sensor stayed in aluminum cover behind harmonic balancer, i did not remove it tryed to keep everything in big pieces, never played with any diesels before this one had a 6.2 na and never did anything but change oil in it and put in fuel. and lined up timing gears and cam as u said,
I put new pump in same exact spot as one removed, dowel went in dowl hole.
 
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