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Help, Problem with Feed The Beast Install

Is the fuel heater the thing that spins off the bottom? If so, it doesn't go there. I pulled what was described as the WIF sensor on the side and the o-ring was a little too big for the recess that was under it. I stuck with the original there.
 
You're right, I was thinking of the WIF but said heater. Would it fit the bottom of the inlet fitting where the screen is? I don't recall getting any O rings with my kit.
 
I bet they gave you the wrong size 0 ring to go with the kit.
Wonder why they suplied a JIC fitting for the FM and not a straight 1/4" barb like i had
The JIC fitting + the screw on barb makes the whole thing a lot longer than just the 1/4" barb,..+ one more change for potential leak.
 
bison said:
I bet they gave you the wrong size 0 ring to go with the kit.
Wonder why they suplied a JIC fitting for the FM and not a straight 1/4" barb like i had
The JIC fitting + the screw on barb makes the whole thing a lot longer than just the 1/4" barb,..+ one more change for potential leak.
Click to expand...

No, the o-rings were bought separately from Leroy Diesel here.
 
o-ring from Leroy: Wif sensor on the side (small) and fuel heater at the bottom (large).
It should be 2 o-rings.

In the Feed The Beast Thread, TurbineDoc have a pictorial of the FFM and how to dismantle it.
 
JMJNet said:
o-ring from Leroy: Wif sensor on the side (small) and fuel heater at the bottom (large).
It should be 2 o-rings.

In the Feed The Beast Thread, TurbineDoc have a pictorial of the FFM and how to dismantle it.
Click to expand...

The small o-ring was too big for the recess under the WIF sensor. I had to reuse the existing. Large one for the heater was fine.

Major PITA to get lines connected with the intake manifold in place. Hard to get a straight shot with the stainless line so that it would thread on straight. Had to attach coat hanger to stainless line at the IP and then pull it to the back and thread it on above the intake, then pull it back through. Same with the drain line. Then it was a PITA to get the FM to seat straight so that the mounting bolts could be threaded straight in. It's back together and there are no leaks.
 
bison said:
I bet they gave you the wrong size 0 ring to go with the kit.
Wonder why they suplied a JIC fitting for the FM and not a straight 1/4" barb like i had
The JIC fitting + the screw on barb makes the whole thing a lot longer than just the 1/4" barb,..+ one more change for potential leak.
Click to expand...
1/4" is what is being replaced with the FTB 3/8" fittings.
 
Big T said:
The small o-ring was too big for the recess under the WIF sensor. I had to reuse the existing. Large one for the heater was fine.

Major PITA to get lines connected with the intake manifold in place. Hard to get a straight shot with the stainless line so that it would thread on straight. Had to attach coat hanger to stainless line at the IP and then pull it to the back and thread it on above the intake, then pull it back through. Same with the drain line. Then it was a PITA to get the FM to seat straight so that the mounting bolts could be threaded straight in. It's back together and there are no leaks.
Click to expand...

I have never done FTB but when I fixed the FFM.
The smail o-ring came from a bag of viton o-ring labeled "HELP" from the part store.
So I just match the size. From what I have seen, the original o-ring was still good.

The big o-ring for the heater was the one that leaks.

I have foreseen the difficulty of pulling the hoses back under the intake so I raise the FFM using M10-1.5 threaded rod.
High enough so that the hoses are now above the intake. I can always do the FTB easier now, if I want to.
I think somebody had done that here so that is where I got the idea.
Somebody have also moved the FFM closer to the fusebox on the driver side.
 
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