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Help needed dtc 35, 31 Engine runs but revs up and then rpms drop. no throttle response either.

cHEAVYGUY

cHEAVYGUY

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So I'm driving down the highway when I change lanes and accelerate, when suddenly the truck acts like the gas pedal is stuck WOT and I pop it into neutral and coast over to the shoulder. Truck still running but big cloud of black smoke as engine revs up then seems to choke up and repeat.

I literally am annoyed just getting the truck 4 days earlier back from the trans shop doing a rebuild, motor mounts, Trans mounts, rear main seal and leaks in Trans cooler lines.

After calming down thinking dam it fuel leak and recent absence of running LP noise. That big pot hole six miles back that flipped my tool box in the back stirred up my fuel tank and starved my IP of fuel sucking in air and F $&! Ing things up. So I replace my LP, clean fuel filter assembly, replace fuel filter, leaking lines, bleed the injectors to smoother yet still its revs up and chokes down. No response to pressing the accelerator/gas pedal. Code I get is DTC 35 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Short) and
DTC 31 - EGR Control Pressure/Baro Sensor Circuit Low (High Vacuum).

Any help is much appreciated.
 
The Baro sensor is on the driver side firewall. Check to see that it's plugged in.

As above check the ground on the transmission dipstick - back of pass side head.

As above the SSDiesel PMD kit design is one of the worst! Out of the frying pan into the fire by relocating the PMD off cool fuel to the hot intake. Do you know how hot the intake gets at full boost? (+-300 degrees...) Yeah, relocate a new PMD to the front bumper. Leroy Diesel sells a good extension cable - get the expensive one for long trouble free life. Then bolt the existing heat sink in the bumper or just get the entire new kit designed to go there. (It's fine with max bumper temp of 121 degrees we get here to the ice of Sedona vacations in the winter.)

Some PMD's are known to go flat out like this on failure.
 
Thanks ak diesel driver, 3 bals and war wagon for your input. I will use my brothers pmd he has on his burban bumper/skid plate version also ill go through the grounds especially the one on the trans dipstick. The baro sensor on my truck was connected but NO VACUUM tube on it never remember seeing one in the past. My engine is a "F" code not sure if it has to be plugged in.

Thanks Again Guys Will Test Soon and Post My Results
 
WarWagon said:
The Baro sensor is on the driver side firewall. Check to see that it's plugged in.

As above check the ground on the transmission dipstick - back of pass side head.

As above the SSDiesel PMD kit design is one of the worst! Out of the frying pan into the fire by relocating the PMD off cool fuel to the hot intake. Do you know how hot the intake gets at full boost? (+-300 degrees...) Yeah, relocate a new PMD to the front bumper. Leroy Diesel sells a good extension cable - get the expensive one for long trouble free life. Then bolt the existing heat sink in the bumper or just get the entire new kit designed to go there. (It's fine with max bumper temp of 121 degrees we get here to the ice of Sedona vacations in the winter.)

Some PMD's are known to go flat out like this on failure.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input it was the pmd.
 
cHEAVYGUY said:
Thanks ak diesel driver, 3 bals and war wagon for your input. I will use my brothers pmd he has on his burban bumper/skid plate version also ill go through the grounds especially the one on the trans dipstick. The baro sensor on my truck was connected but NO VACUUM tube on it never remember seeing one in the past. My engine is a "F" code not sure if it has to be plugged in.

Thanks Again Guys Will Test Soon and Post My Results
Click to expand...

"connected but NO VACUUM tube on it"

This is correct. Barometer is outside air pressure so no tube needed. The separate MAP sensor is on the manifold.
 
A spare pmd is a requirement for ds4 trucks. Just think of it like a spare tire that fits in the glove box.
 
when was your last IP rebuilt or replaced?.......the 95 Burb i had did that just before the IP went all together.....

have you done the IP test?
 
ghitch75 said:
when was your last IP rebuilt or replaced?.......the 95 Burb i had did that just before the IP went all together.....

have you done the IP test?
Click to expand...
I don't know what that test is. I don't know when it was last replaced.
ghitch75 said:
when was your last IP rebuilt or replaced?.......the 95 Burb i had did that just before the IP went all together.....

have you done the IP test?
Click to expand...
 
to test the IP....start it up and see if you can hold the rpm's at 2000rpm's........if you can't the IP is on it's way out....
 
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