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Help a Brother Out #2

Once you can pull the front tires you might try wedging a heavy screwdriver between the caliper and the rotor try to force the piston in a tad. They should free up but will stiffen in the next pedal press. But at least that will tell you if it’s the caliper or bearings
 
You can pull the wheel covers if still OEM wheels and gain access to the bearing caps. Pull those and be able to check the preload unless yours has hub assembly’s Not sure if 97 2wd’s used bolt on hubs in the front or like my 95 with grease caps and bearings in the rotors like the older trucks
 
Stoney said:
I crackers open the bleeder on that front wheel.. didn't change how hard the tire turned..
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There is usually a fair amount of resistance turning the wheels but you should be able to spin with one hand. If the truck is sitting on a smooth level surface in neutral you should be able to move the truck by yourself. Not easily but if it won't move something is dragging too much. Truck should roll by itself in neutral on a very slight incline. If it does there isn't too much drag.
 
Stoney said:
Am I forgetting anything here . Not ordering but wanted to make sure I can get the stuff from rock Auto. Nobody around here seems to have anything ac Delco.
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That is everything if you are looking to do the rear cylinders, front calipers and rubber lines on the brake system.

FYI. you really shouldn't open brake bleed valves unless you are prepared to bleed the system. Doing so will more often than not, let air in and give you a spongy feeling brake pedal.

I'm sure many here have said the following statement.

I wish I was closer to help you knock out these issues.
 
Thanks guys.
I made a slight boo boo last night. Started the truck with out letting the plugs warm up all the way...it had already been running awhile before that so not like I completely cold started it.... anyhow, it started up and I had the head lights on, and the wait to start light was still flashing, and I noticed, even with it running every time the wait to start light flashed on the headlights dimmed.🤔
Any ideas why it does that?
As for the brake system..my thought is get all the Delco parts in then then flush the fluid. Then I'll know 💯 that those parts are good, only things left then otherwise is the MC and hydro boost
 
Stoney said:
Thanks guys.
I made a slight boo boo last night. Started the truck with out letting the plugs warm up all the way...it had already been running awhile before that so not like I completely cold started it.... anyhow, it started up and I had the head lights on, and the wait to start light was still flashing, and I noticed, even with it running every time the wait to start light flashed on the headlights dimmed.🤔
Any ideas why it does that?
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As you probably know, the WTS light is tied to the glow plug circuit and lights up when the glow plugs are on.

The glow system is somewhere near a 60 amp draw. I'd have to put my meter on it to verify. Someone here my know for sure.

Anyway, that's a large load on the charging system, hence the two batteries. While the engine is idling the stock alternator may put out 25% of that amount, maybe less. So the rest of the 60 amps comes from the batteries and will dim the lights slightly by reducing the system voltage. The better the condition of your batteries and cables, the less noticeable the dimming will be.
 
Okay I figured I'd give you guys an update... Since completely disconnecting that back brake and backing off the adjuster as far as it would go the truck does seem to be better to a point... So I think I'm on the right track as far as problems... Now the dragging feeling or hard pulling problem however you want to say it seems to happen after taking off of red lights mostly and usually goes away within about 15-20 seconds after taking off from the light... The brake pedal sometimes comes back up quickly sometimes slowly sometimes it's a harder pedal sometimes it's kind of squishy I have not yet found a rhyme or reason as to which time it is which
 
The other thing I have noticed is the steering wheel when coming back to straight after a turn sometimes it feels like it's catchy like it hits a certain spot and then catches for the split second it doesn't hang me up or anything it just feels like it has like a nut spot where it has to push past or choppy I guess
 
that is what i am thinking too. as far as your parts list is going, since you are replacing both calipers and hoses along with the rear wheel cylinders, I would recomend replacing the MC too while your at it just so every part of the brake hydraulics other than the ABS unit is new and with all fresh fluid. this will eliminate any guess work as to the hydraulic components.
 
I agree but the problem I'm going to run into is I don't own a power bleeder and from what I've been told it's pretty much necessary to not get any air in the ABS.
 
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