• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Heaths water inj

Acesneights1

New Member
Messages
10,018
Reaction score
36
Location
Northeast CT
OK after mulling my annual hot while towing once again and thinking everything from custom fans, ATTs custom rad, Moving the a/c cooler and monkeys in tou tous fanning the truck with fine wine I have finally relooked over my data and just can't seem to get away from 260Deg IATs. Seems the problem is self explanatory right ? If your putting 260 deg air into the motor what temp is it going to run at ?? SO That said this Water mist setup, educate me on it. How much water does it use ? I basically only run into problems on long grades. Flat towing no prob. Been trying to read up. Using Meth seems more like a powerboost thing which could spell trouble and I got plenty power , just need cooling. So what I'm looking for here is:
Is anybody running it ?
How much does it lower IATs ?
How much water does it use ?
I'm like the idea of something that looks relatively simple and quick to install and won't turn my engine compt into a cluster f like an ATA probably would but i also don't want to have to turn the Tahoe into a rollin water can so...
what do you guys know/think ?
 
Simple would be tap a 300cc/min nozzle into intake post turbo and plumb it into a washer fluid tank, either yours or find one off a junk vehicle and add it. Put in a 100psi water pump between. Have the water pump power triggered by a Hobbs pressure switch tapped into the intake to trigger the water pumps power relay at 5psi.

However a progressive controller is better, that adjust pump pressure output over boost range or some even will accept the modifier from EGTs, so more water when EGTs go up. This also costs more.
 
Kenny, send a message to Edzzed ... he has a WMI setup and some good data. Ed's a great guy and will help you out.
 
Ian did an article on Heath's unit? in MaxTorque magazine and I think you can get to the article on thier website for free. It was a decent article. Might give you some more answers. He did a driving trip and posted MPG with water injection and without. I think water usage and miles etc. But its been a while since I read it.
 
I have the devils own w/m and it works. I am running dual nozzles 10gph and 5gph. i have a boost controller which has a minimum setting and full on setting. when boost hits the min setting w/m comes on and ramps up as more boost comes on till it hits where i have full on setting and then it is full on. imo best way to go is egt based. which i don't yet have. boost is to variable with my truck even with heaths t/m. it is hard to explain that but the difference between say 3 and 10 lbs doesn't take much throttle. i don't need w/m on a flat road. i need it for hills. living in BC we have literally lots of hills and mountains. with boost regulated it'll come on when i don't need it and towing a trailer throws the settings out as anyone with a boost gauge would know. so what i did is put a toggle switch inline of the sensor wire off the map tap in. i keep the toggle switch off till i see my egt's rise and then turn it on. unloaded it will drop my egt's even going uphill with my foot in it. when towing the trailer in my avatar it literally holds the egt's from climbing and depending on the grade will drop egt's or slow them from radically climbing. I have had to back off the throttle on occasion as egt's climbed too high. but that was going up the coquihalla. the beauty of the toggle switch is it won't keep w/m on when i let off the throttle as it still runs off the controller. devilsown sells and egt amplifier but i need a 2nd pyro probe for it. for my purposes i don't need to spend the money. as for water quantity i have a 5 gallon marine tank behind my seat. i also have a float switch and light in the dash so i know when i am low on water. i can burn through 5 gallons in under 300 miles. if you go back to my nozzles theoretically i can go through x gallons in x minutes. so a water washer is useless. they have controllers out there that do egt and boost but i think those are geared towards bigger boost d/maxes or cummins. all that said if you are looking for reducing egt's on hillls buy the pump, lines and nozzles. skip the controller and hook up a toggle switch. Ed
 
well, I had a heart to heart with bill H today and decided to go with his kit. It , like the Devils Own, has the control board although I think I'll be manual controlling mine. It uses alot more water if you leave it on all the time as Ed mentioned and Bill confirmed it. He is about 70$ moree than the Devils Own Kits but I KNOW the kit Bill sells is specifically for a 6.5 and if I have issues or whatever he will be there. So it's done and ordered. Hopefully will get it in time for July 4th. He is still convinced something else is wrong with my truck . when I got off the phone he was trying to look up exactly what he sold me. Maybe I got a bum fan clutch. I'll know that when I switch it with my 2000 with the severe duty hayden clutch. I still think my IAT's are just too high. And this is a much neater quicker install than a custom ATA. I can get this up and running in a few hours.For the extra 70$ I would rather buy from Heath since he has always been there when I needed help. So we'll see.
 
Back
Top