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Heath Cooling upgrade.......

Is there a part number for the clutch by itself?

I was thinking maybe swap the new fan to the old clutch......
 
To compare fans, one must be laid atop the other, compare blade width, blade heighth, hub diameter, blade entrance angle, blade exit angle - same overall diameter and # of blades does not make fans 'identical' - besides, the official upgrade is not just a fan\clutch improvement, but also equalizes coolant flow thru the banks - at first glance, symptom sounds like the new fan spins slower or moves less air than the orginal in anticipation of equalized fow................


He's usually right

I'd like to know who/what is anticipating this equalized flow....and how the hell do they know? LOL
 
He should, I think he does it for a living? Obviously the the fans are not identical the new fan is 21" and the old one is 20". The 21" should exceed the performance of the 20" easily. So I must conclude the clutch on the 21" fan engages at a higher temp. the clutch on the 21" is bigger than the 20" clutch. Does anyone know what temp the 21" engages at?
 
If it's Heath's clutch.....I think 10* earlier than stock.

Put the fan on your old clutch and see what happens.....Should tell the story.
 
The Hayden severe Duty Clutches (what Heath sells) are designed to engage at a lower temp than the stock clutch. The Hayden book says they engage at 170* radiator air temp (about 200* water temp on efficient air flow).

Why not swap the plastic fan to old clutch to see if it works.
 
The Hayden site shows for a 99 6.5 should be a 2840. I have a 2843 which is off a 01-05 6.6 D-Max. Brooklyn Tow and Acesneights1 can you guys look at the front of your fan clutches and tell me what the first 4 digits are stamped on there?
 
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In 96, Brooklyn, did you have a 9 blade fan or is it the 6 blade like mine?

20-21" not much of a difference and with the larger clutch the blades look the same size.

My fan is spinning when I'm parked and coolant is 185-190 and I notice the flow is mostly blowing right towards the turbo, the passenger side of the engine bay and none to the drivers side. I dont know how yours guys feels though.
 
On the Heath site the fan clutch by itself labeled "HEAVY-DUTY Fan Drive 2000-2001 GM 6.5" Looks exactly like my old clutch. I am going to try just changing the fan and see if there is any change.
 
My 96 was a 6 blade. I put the Kennedy clutch and steel 9 blade on last summer and have been happy with it. No cooling problems pulling hills out west at 19k GCW. When Im on a 6% grade I'm only getting about 10 mph so the superduper fan clutch is important.
 
The Hayden site shows for a 99 6.5 should be a 2840. I have a 2843 which is off a 01-05 6.6 D-Max. Brooklyn Tow and Acesneights1 can you guys look at the front of your fan clutches and tell me what the first 4 digits are stamped on there?

Seems you got the wrong P/N to begin with....(Suspect?)

My SevereDuty Clutch is a Kennedy so numbers wouldn't match. From what he told me, he has his clutches made to his own desired spec (don't know what co.) and supposed to engage earlier then all the rest.


In 96, Brooklyn, did you have a 9 blade fan or is it the 6 blade like mine?

20-21" not much of a difference and with the larger clutch the blades look the same size.

My fan is spinning when I'm parked and coolant is 185-190 and I notice the flow is mostly blowing right towards the turbo, the passenger side of the engine bay and none to the drivers side. I dont know how yours guys feels though.


Originally Truck came with the 6 blade.....I bought Kennedy's clutch and he recommended the 20" steel 9 blade, So I put the combo on and still had cooling issues. Then I bought the D Max 21" composite 9 blade and problem solved.

As far as air direction, it seemed centered, but I never payed much attention.....I will now and report back.
 
FYI: post-fan free-flow direction, or "prop-wash", is dependent on accessory location: ac compressor, p\s pump and idlers\belt-tensioners, thus is year-dependent - to the turbo-side would be the most efficient at maintaining reduced under-hood heat - that prop-wash being the main reason why I used v-belts when I built my rig: that body-series already had historical cooling problems at highway speeds due to the "up-wash", or airflow, from the Dana-60 front axle
 
FYI I just ran the burb over to Ga from Ms last nite, since 2007 it has Heath pump, spin on clutch, and 9 blade plastic fan, 86F outside temp, running 100% load, 100% APP, 107 mph max speed, max temp on H2O was 207F, normal average was 199F at 60-85 mph. When I bought the burb it would go to 215 F just idling in traffic, I would keep it cool by turning on defrost to pull off some of the excess heat, DEEP rad and AC core cleaning and Heath cooling system upgrades were the ticket to fixing my overtemp situation. In 2006 I put on TM set at min setting scrapped vac pump, 4" exhaust, and GLE program, and remoted the FSD. Also has Lube Specialist lines and cooler, and FS2500 bypass kit installed in spring 2008

I'll be posting all collected data later in the week (burb soon to also have ATT took baseline data) sans EGT/mech boost/or BP (no EGT on the burb yet). Highly recommend you call Heath vs. posting here, they don't monitor the site much for issues, so won't be aware of any issues you still have after installing their kit.
 
I just read this thread and i too have the 21'' 9 blade plastic job fan. However mine came from ss diesel. Tell yah the truth i can actually hear the fan kick on now with the new one, vs. the old one. However i still get real warm while driving with the plow on.... I was wondering if buying the fan was really worth it? I wish i kept my stock fan, but i junked it because i couldnt hear it come on, but i did get my finger in it and it hurt so it must have been spinning pretty good.... I am going all out with a 97 and up water pump and a dual t stat cross over for the new engine, i hope that helps....:confused:
 
If prop wash is better to the turbo side where my AC condenser is, where is everyone esles prop wash? with AC condensers on drivers side. Or 94's updated with DMax fan?

Does everyone else get air flow into the cab all the time out of floor vent when on highway? Notice that some people say they turn on the air to cool off engine. Defrost will probably cycle on the AC condensor. I always have air coming in strong at floor when at 50mph or better, unless I turn on AC.
 
MIne blows all the time through the vents when the selector is off. I always have the selector set to hot to lower my engine temps, my a/c doesnt work....
 
I just read this thread and i too have the 21'' 9 blade plastic job fan. However mine came from ss diesel. Tell yah the truth i can actually hear the fan kick on now with the new one, vs. the old one. However i still get real warm while driving with the plow on.... I was wondering if buying the fan was really worth it? I wish i kept my stock fan, but i junked it because i couldnt hear it come on, but i did get my finger in it and it hurt so it must have been spinning pretty good.... I am going all out with a 97 and up water pump and a dual t stat cross over for the new engine, i hope that helps....:confused:

I also have the SS diesel HD clutch and dmax fan combo. I noticed a big difference in the airflow and since i did my swap it's been a lot better. At 95F with the A/C on it runs about 190-195F depending upon the grade of the mountain..etc.
Don
 
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