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Heath Cooling upgrade.......

GJF

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OK, When I installed my new turbo I end up removing the vacuum pump and installed the 99.5 belt. I also disassembled the A/C system and cleaned everything to the extreme and installed the new compressor, dryer, condenser ect. (It's Florida and heat is here NOW). A while back I talked to Bill and asked if my 99 cooling system was the same as what he sold for his cooling kit. He said no, his kit is the latest and greatest cooling products for the 6.5 on the market. OK well my pump is still in good shape as well as the t-stats and I decided to keep them in the box and install it on my new engine when that time comes. Anyways..... I decided to install the new fan/fan clutch assembly and be on my way. My gauge has always never gone past the second line past the 180mark. Last week I towed the trailer and didn't have any cooloing issues because it has been raining here every day. Thursday I got a clear afternoon and the temp rose close to 210! I turned off the A/C and the temp went back down to 185 or so like always. I drove the rest of the day and didn't notice anything different but after work I dropped the trailer off at the shop and went home. Going home I hot footed it a few times between lights and when I got to one stop light the temp was one line away from 210. I drove it easy and it did go down back to normal. Today I hooked up the trailer again to go get materials for Monday and loaded the trailer and had atleast a combined weight of 20,000lbs if not more. When I got to the interstate I looked and the gauge was just past the 210 mark!!!!! HS!!!!!! I started to think..... the only thing I did different was revamp the A/C and installed the new Heath Fan/ fan clutch. I decided to drop the trailer off and took the new fan off and installed the old steel fan. Incidently the old fan and the new fan are identical except the new fan is plastic. I end up loading a pallette of wood in the back of the truck and 10 sheets of durarock. I was a bit of a lead foot and the whole time for the last 3 hours the temp never went past the first line past the 180 mark. So while I did revamp the A/C and have been enjoying the 46 degree air it is producing I am sure the A/C system adds more load on the cooling system. But in reality it was the new Heath fan all along. Anybody have simular results with the Heath fan?
 
I know Acesneights was contemplating putting his normal fan back on. I am not sure if he ever tried to compare.

At what temp did that fan clutch engage? Was it engaged at 210? What temp did it turn off at?

Are you saying your temps were 210, fan engaged, and it wouldn't cool down fast enough? Or the clutch wasn't engaged?
 
To compare fans, one must be laid atop the other, compare blade width, blade heighth, hub diameter, blade entrance angle, blade exit angle - same overall diameter and # of blades does not make fans 'identical' - besides, the official upgrade is not just a fan\clutch improvement, but also equalizes coolant flow thru the banks - at first glance, symptom sounds like the new fan spins slower or moves less air than the orginal in anticipation of equalized fow................
 
I gotta say, I like the Heath boys but what GJF is sayin I might be agreein with. I have not had a chance but I was going to pull the stock steel fan off my 2000 and put it on my 95. I cannot use my stock 95 one anymore cause the Heath water pump used center hub. I have long suspected that fan is not drawing air and now that you posted this Iam going to swtich the fans . I have never "heard" the Heath fan pulling air like my factory one does. what's even more whack is from your sig you are running a ATA so you definitely should not be having problems.
 
To compare fans, one must be laid atop the other, compare blade width, blade heighth, hub diameter, blade entrance angle, blade exit angle - same overall diameter and # of blades does not make fans 'identical' - besides, the official upgrade is not just a fan\clutch improvement, but also equalizes coolant flow thru the banks - at first glance, symptom sounds like the new fan spins slower or moves less air than the orginal in anticipation of equalized fow................

When I laid the fans on top of each other they were identical except for materials. One was plastic, one was steel. The same number of blades. And the angle of the blades were the same. The only items sent to me were the 2 new GM 195 degree t-stats, the fan/fan clutch assembly and the waterpump. If the original system works without issues and only the fan caused this I can't see the pump being that much more efficient. Doesn't the 99's have the HO pump? And if my stock fan works that good on my engine, even better than the new fan why would one go with the less efficient fan?

Matt, I could not hear the fan kick in with the plastic fan.......

Brooklyn Tow, From what Bill said it is off the Kodiak trucks. So I would think it is the 21" unit. I'll take a pic of it tomorrow at the shop and post it.
 
I've never heard of a fan powerful enough to cool the engine down that you can't hear (or feel in drag).

Reminds me of those ol' flex-fan's, but you could still hear them.

I wonder if the plastif fan is interfering with the clutch engaging,

OR, is the clutch engaging, but the fan is 'bending' itself flat like the flex-fans use to do, allowing little to no airflow/noise/HP loss.

Did you happen to try to move the fan blade with engine off while really hot to see if clutch was engaged?

Or with your old fan set up could you distinctively hear/feel the fan come on and do its thing?

I'm really curious here, as you can see my other thread I have going is about fan clutches.

I have had no issues with my stocker fan cooling, as long as the clutch is engaging, she cools really fast.
 
OR, is the clutch engaging, but the fan is 'bending' itself flat like the flex-fans use to do, allowing little to no airflow/noise/HP loss.

Did you happen to try to move the fan blade with engine off while really hot to see if clutch was engaged?

When I took off the fan it had cooled down to normal operating temp, I drove it into the shop open the hood and swapped it out within 5 mins. Then I went to pick up the materials. the fan was hot as %^!! to touch but it wasn't locked I could still move it like normal.

Or with your old fan set up could you distinctively hear/feel the fan come on and do its thing?

I gotta tell you I don't think I have ever heard either one engage? On my H1 I can hear it engage on the highway as it cycles when going through the mountains. I will try to listen closer for the steel fan to engage.

I'm really curious here, as you can see my other thread I have going is about fan clutches.

I have had no issues with my stocker fan cooling, as long as the clutch is engaging, she cools really fast.

I'm going to the shop now I wonder if there is a temp rating casted or stamped into the clutches?
 
I'll tell you when mine engages there is no missing it. Its a disticts WHOOSH that rides along with RPM. Absolutely no question about it engaging. Followed by dramatic drops in coolant temp.
 
D Max fan made all the difference for me...That fan moves way more air than the stock 20" 9 blade.....I tried both, and I still have the steel blade I bought from Kennedy W/ his clutch....
 
Judging by the above posts, it seems perhaps some have defective fans, if they can barely hear it when its engaged.

Perhaps the plastic is too weak in the mold and its flexing instaed of pushing air?

GJF said a kodiak fan.......don't know if we're talking about the same blade.

I'll see if I can find a P/N.
 
OK, here is the pics of the fans. 15992650 on the 99 steel fan. The steel fan keeps the needle at 1 line past 180 all day long... 15010202 is the number on this fan, so it is the same fan. It just doesn't cool it like the steel one. You guys think the fan clutch is faulty?
 

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OK, here is the pics of the fans. 15992650 on the 99 steel fan. The steel fan keeps the needle at 1 line past 180 all day long... 15010202 is the number on this fan, so it is the same fan. It just doesn't cool it like the steel one. You guys think the fan clutch is faulty?


I got the total opposite effect.

Strange.
 
I only had it on for a week but no hard driving til I had to pull the trailer at about 20K+ combined. When I saw the needle just over 210 I got really nervous it did o back down to normal temp but the it shouldn't do that. There shouldn't be any breakin period right? I even cleaned the radiator and all the coolers when I did the A/C, so there is no complications. Put the steel fan back on and it is stable as usual. I didn't have a cooling problem. But Bill said this would give me the ultimate cooling available. I put the fan on and decided to keep the pump and t-stats for the new motor. Strange thing is this truck doesn't run hot. I haven't taken it up to Tennessee yet and that was the reason I sprung for the cooling kit. I didn't want any problems.
 
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