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Heater hose routing coolant circuit

dbrannon79

I'm getting there!
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Location
Seguin, TX
Hey guys, since the beginning of winter is upon us I have noticed that my rig is taking longer the warm up and start to put any heat out of the vents. recently I have installed the cooling upgrade with the 2000+ GM water pump, thermal electric fan clutch and controller that I have set to come on at 200 degrees. 180 deg t-stat installed which I know I probably need to replace with the GM 190 degree one.

but I recently have been thinking about the heater hose routing that has me going bananas in my head! most all GM gassers I have wrenched on over the years have the heater circuit have the hoses all routed to two points on the engine circulating coolant between the block and the heater core. my rig has the one hose from the t-stat crossover (passenger side) going to the core and out to the cold side of the radiator. this routing is making me think that the pump is pushing coolant through the passenger side head, then splitting that flow where half of that goes to the heater core and into the radiator. the pump has to be picking up the amount of coolant that is pushed into the radiator through the heater and taking it back into the block hence taking a bit longer to heat up, especially now that I have a higher flow pump installed.

I have been wondering how other newer model 6.5 trucks have the heater hoses routed. I would think if both hoses were on the block, this would allow the heater to begin working faster and still allow the t-stat to do it's job maintaining the rated temp. on my truck the PO before me had installed a hand water valve like you find on a house water spigot inline on the heater hose going to the radiator. I decided to test out one theory by seeing how it warms up with that valve closed. I didn't count time or miles, but it was enough for me to notice it does warm up faster but stayed at the constant 180-185 deg temp. I shot several places on the block paying more attention to the #8 cylinder area to make sure there wasn't a big temp difference in that area. the entire system stayed within about 5 to 7 degrees.

Now I know I am going out on a limb here thinking like this, but I am wondering if the newer models used the plugged port on the water pump for the heater hose instead of it going to the radiator.

I would love to see photos on how others are routed on the different year models. again me thinking here, since the old pump from factory didn't have this port and the new one does.
 
From the cross over, that is taking the warmest coolant and pushing it through the heater core, dumping it back into the radiator helps to cool the coolant passing through the radiator too. It has dissipated a large portion of the heat into the cabin.
I dont think it could get any better than that.
Most diesel engines do jot warm up at an idle, and it takes quite a while on tHe road too.
Best thing to do is to install the PTO option pig tails to the ECM/PCM and run it/them through a switch to a ground.
OBD1 can utilize one high idle pig tail, OBD2 can utilize two pigtails and it will also have three high idle options.
I dont remember the exact numbers, seems switch one is maybe 1100 +-, switch two is like about 1500 and both I believe is around 1800.
I installed the PTO option switches and now in about five minutes the heater is defrosting the windshield, on switch two option.
Fire up the engine, wait until the wait to start lamp quits flashing then hit the switch. vrooom vrrooooom. 👍😹😹😹
 
I doubt that the 180 stats are hindering the warmup process, unless one, or both, is stuck open, which I doubt.
Is what they will hinder is reaching a good warm temp when it is colder outside.
Should not be a big problem though in Texas. 🤷‍♂️😹😹😹
you might consider a winter front for the truck if You dont want to pull the T-stats.
Just be sure You have the option to open it up full for warmer winter days.
 
I know I’m probably over thinking it a bit lol. It’s just been on my mind as a wonder! I figured I’d better ask the question. I do have the switch installed but hardly even use it. Temps here are just starting to dip close to the 50’s here which is not that cold lol

my stat also has that bleeder thingymobob on it too. Not that it has anything to do with it.

its probably just my imagination wondering thinking about the higher flow. I know the heater hoses don’t have any restrictor ether because that OEM quick disconnect was replaced with a hose barb by the PO too.
 
I use a cig lighter plug in heater to warm up the cab in morning in Winter...I usually start the truck 10-15 minutes before I want to leave when it's cold to warm up the engine..if you turn on the electric heater when you start the truck cab will be reasonable warm by the time you go...
BTW the best heaters I've found were sold at big truck stops .. there designed to heat the cab of a rig so the cab of a pick-up is no challenge to them.
 
That reminds me. Anyone else ever have problems with there heater controller going bad or malfunctioning?... I've gone through 3 of them... If I hit it enough times (literally) it will come on. Then sometimes it won't turn off..
 
I think it's just my imagination on warmups I used my remote start this morning and let it idle for about 5 minutes before I left and it was starting to blow luke warm air by the time I got to the end of my street! of course it was about 46 deg when I left. I think a new GM t-stat will help that since I have the famous auto parts chineese special 180 deg installed lol

I may even look into wiring in the PTO high idle into my remote start so that it sits and warms up better when it's cold. though I think cranking up cold at 1100 rpm might be too much I have been thinking on my DIY tune to take the PTO rpm setting down to 850 - 900 rpm. last couple of mornings when I crank it up normally it's been rattling quite loudly
 
I think it's just my imagination on warmups I used my remote start this morning and let it idle for about 5 minutes before I left and it was starting to blow luke warm air by the time I got to the end of my street! of course it was about 46 deg when I left. I think a new GM t-stat will help that since I have the famous auto parts chineese special 180 deg installed lol

I may even look into wiring in the PTO high idle into my remote start so that it sits and warms up better when it's cold. though I think cranking up cold at 1100 rpm might be too much I have been thinking on my DIY tune to take the PTO rpm setting down to 850 - 900 rpm. last couple of mornings when I crank it up normally it's been rattling quite loudly
I always wait until the wait to start light has finished cycling. That way there is a good build of oil pressure.
The JD book, it said that as soon as the engine starts and it is established that the OP is good, set the throttle to XXXX RPMS and let it warm up. I do not remember that number but I am thinking it was about 1200.
Good for JD, good for good old Detroit. 🤷‍♂️😹😹😹😹
 
warm under idle or high idle takes a longtime with idi diesels. Remember when overheating you never shut it off, it let it idle until temp drops to normal.
idi diesel- on e you have oil pressure for 10 seconds- put it in gear and load it up to warm engine faster.

As to wanting the heater warmer in the morning and not sure if t stat will help:
Whatever heat you have when it hits 180 is what you will get. If you are unhappy with the heat at 180, then yes go to 195 stat(s).

Do not compare gas heater hose routing to this engine. Design is different and causes different issues. You can block flow 100% on gasser - do it on this and you are gonna have problems on an otherwise perfect system.
 
If your good with the heater once at 180°, then get the electric heater like Stoney mentioned. Or, get an extension cord and plug in the block heater an hour before start it. Some guys use a timer that the extension cord plugs into and plug in as soon as you park it so the next morning it comes on for the 1 hour. Just drape the extension cord on your driver side mirror so you don’t take off in the morning with it plugged in. Probably don’t even need a full hour, half hour maybe?
 
I probably go O.K. I plug in the 6.5 soon as I park the truck and the temps is getting close to 50 degrees.
Probably one reason I’m not afeeerd of stepping up the idle when the wait to start quits flashing.
 
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If your good with the heater once at 180°, then get the electric heater like Stoney mentioned. Or, get an extension cord and plug in the block heater an hour before start it. Some guys use a timer that the extension cord plugs into and plug in as soon as you park it so the next morning it comes on for the 1 hour. Just drape the extension cord on your driver side mirror so you don’t take off in the morning with it plugged in. Probably don’t even need a full hour, half hour maybe?
For heating an engine weighing 300kg, on up40 degrees (Celsius or Kelvin). Plus antifreeze 20kg.
I calculate how much energy needs to be spent ..
Heat capacity of cast iron = 540J / kgT
Heat capacity of antifreeze = 3400 J / kgT

The energy required to heat the block and antifreeze by 40 degrees Kelvin (Celsius) = (300 * 540 * 40) + (20 * 3400 * 40) = 9200 kJ
Typically, the block heater has a power of 600 watts.
Time for heating with this heater =
9200 / 0.6 = 15333 seconds = 4.26 hours.
This is without taking into account heat loss.
Necessary to install two heaters on different sides of the block. then the block will warm up 2 times faster. and warms up more evenly.
 
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