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Headstuds

Dura-Ration

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Location
Escatawpa,Ms.
This may sound a little ridiculous but here goes. I don't have a headgasket problem yet, but to prevent it from happening, would it pay to remove the valve covers and all related parts in order to remove the head bolts one at a time and replace them one at a time with studs?
 
If you have the early style headgaskets, they don't normally fail from clamping force. I know mine just eroded away in a coolant passage and leaked out the back. If you were going to go through all the trouble and hassle to replace the bolts with studs, you might as well pull the heads and do the gaskets as well.
 
Much easier said than done though. Fermanator. Replacing studs one at a time is 100 times easier than doing the full job. The do them one at a time you just have to follow a injector replacement tutorial but then also remove the rocker assy. That's it. To do the dull job with the motor in the truck takes a very long time.

The new style gaskets are the better ones to my knowledge. The new ones are riveted together.

If you don't have hg problems don't plan on having more than 550hp then I sag why fix what isn't broke.
 
As I recall your not going to be able to replace all the bolts with studs with the heads in place. I think it's 2 bolts on each side that will not come out all the way unless the head is removed or you lift the body. With that in mind I would not want to have a mix of bolts and studs. If your going to put studs in then your going to have to pull the heads to do it right.
 
Thanks

Thanks for all the replies guys. I wish not to go past 550hp at this time, due to its our family truckster has well has my playtoy. From the way it looks I'll wait until the injectors go bad to address the HG problem.
Vinny, in removing the engine and transmission, do you remove both together at the same time? Or separately ? I have removed an engine and trans at the same time in a gasser and I found that its easier to do, than not. In your experience would this be better on a Duramax?
 
No you cannot remove the engine and transmission at the same time. I guess i dont have a reason why you cant except that nobody that i know of does it. Im sure theres a reason.

Maybe its that the combined weight of the two is nearly 1,500lbs. Theres also clearence issues as the Allison is just so damn big.

If you dont have a lift then do it the way GM does. Simply remove the torque converter bolts and bellhousing bolts and support the trans with a jack stand or something. But if you have a lift i find it easier to just get the trans out. I do it this way so that i can roll the truck off the lift while i perform the engine work and i can still get other trucks on the lift.

Its really not hard if youd like to know more about shoot me a PM and ill get you my number and well have a long chat.

Ive never done studs with a motor in the truck and while leaving the heads on but many others have and have replaced all of them, but i believe you have to simply remove the two nuts that hold the transmission to the crossmember and jack the trans up to gain clearence.

But if you have the time, HGs are about $220 a pair so you might as well just pull the thing out and make your life easy.

And while your in their maybe build it up :D:D:D:D.
 
The engine and tranny will come out together, done it. The problem is you have to drop the front diff down about 2"s to do it as the oil pan won't clear it otherwise. And it is one HEAVY SOB out there on a lift. Unfortunately I had to put mine into the BURB as one piece when I did it as doing the starter almost requires pulling the engine out.

HPIM0874.jpg
 
Good Information, thanks fella's.
We have removed the engine out Paul's truck last year with the lift but left the trans in. No need to work on it. I was just putting some thoughts on paper so to speak to get other ideas. I just read about a guy that lifts the whole body off the frame to do turbo work. WTF. While I have the equipment to do this, I'm not so sure its worth it. Maybe if I was to do a turbo,injectors and head gaskets, then it might be.
 
i would not waste the money to do the headstuds if you dont plan on taking the power to high. it is definitely not a clamping issue or a head bolt stretch issue. they are very pricey and dont offer mush in the way of protection. until you decide to run monster turbos and big timing numbers causing cylinder pressures to spike, they wont be needed. they will indeed hurt your arms torquing them:D.
 
Good Information, thanks fella's.
We have removed the engine out Paul's truck last year with the lift but left the trans in. No need to work on it. I was just putting some thoughts on paper so to speak to get other ideas. I just read about a guy that lifts the whole body off the frame to do turbo work. WTF. While I have the equipment to do this, I'm not so sure its worth it. Maybe if I was to do a turbo,injectors and head gaskets, then it might be.

I saw that article too.

If youve ever done a Duramax turbo youll realize that his way will be much nicer. Ive looked into pulling the can but havent had a truck to do it on yet. The worst thing is that I dont have an A/C Evacuator.
 
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