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Headlight for new grill.

Sounds like you missed the grounds. There's one for each side of the core support, driver/passenger - separate black wire with a ring terminal on it.

Richard
 
Sounds like you missed the grounds. There's one for each side of the core support, driver/passenger - separate black wire with a ring terminal on it.

Richard

I did not miss either one but I am going to run a extra ground wire just to see what happens.
 
I ran a extra ground wire from the the ground wire rings on both side directly to the battery and it made no difference but I kept in in there since it does not hurt anything.
 
I ran a extra ground wire from the the ground wire rings on both side directly to the battery and it made no difference but I kept in in there since it does not hurt anything.

I went ahead and put it all together any way. It just kind of sucks I cant turn the headlights off and leave the parking lights on. Oh well I dont a have a reason to do that very often except when backing at night with a trailer in a dark area.
 
What year model did you end up getting the harness from? Are you 100%, and I mean 100% sure, that there are no modifications, hacks, or damage to it? If it didn't come from another 1995, you may have discovered another "1995 one year only" issue, as there are quite a few.

The headlight switch backlighting coming on when you turn the key on, is normal. Your door lock and window buttons should do the same.

While you have the dash bezel off checking with your other headlight switch, look very closely at the wiring pigtail going to the switch. The 1995-up design is fairly well known for burning these wires up, but most often in situations where people have added aftermarket lights with higher wattage capsules. Still, even in the stock setup the circuit is marginal. I've seen a LOT of these burnt up in that area.

Two things to be careful of while messing with the switch - take extra special care to not bump your hazard button with the dash bezel while removing/installing; that sucker is really fragile, you don't even want to accidentally press it if you can avoid it. You may already know this. The other thing, if you end up replacing the switch, take extra care with the tabs that hold it into the bezel. That plastic is usually pretty brittle. Only bend them away from the switch the absolute bare minimum needed to release it.

Richard
 
Sadly my friend picked it up from the junk yard. So I do not know the exact year. No visible modifications on the outside of the wrap of the harness. That does not mean that a mod did not get tucked in and hidden.

Thanks for the warning about the marginal wires.

My truck is to plane to have door locks and power window buttons. Heck even the door panels are just hard plastic without any kind of vinyl or padding.
 
Just thought I would share my findings on this topic...I converted my 96' WT grill to a 98' GMC grill. Pick up a simple test light if you dont have one for the wiring harness, everything should be farily straight foreward.

I bought replacement headlights from LMC. Paid a high price as I thought i was paying for piece of mind and a quality product. Wrong. They stick out of the grill by about a 1/2" and I had to reem out all the mounting holes for the core support. Same junk as you buy on ebay for twice the price. From what I have read on the gmt400 forums, the TYC seem to be the favorite aftermarket light. Id replace mine if someone could produce some decent ones.

-Nick
 
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