• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Head Light Decisions????

... A good buffing kit can do miracles! Not the el cheapo stuff you find at the auto supply stores though.

You need a real buff with the right clay... Plus a good buffing machine. The clay and buff cheap, buffing machine not so cheap.

Just my $.02 from having disgusting headlights at one point.

Granted onced buffed you will need to touch them up once a year as maintenance... Not sure if there was a protective film from the factory that gets destroyed once old/buffed off.

I know TMI. :)
 
Pillow said:
... A good buffing kit can do miracles! Not the el cheapo stuff you find at the auto supply stores though.

You need a real buff with the right clay... Plus a good buffing machine. The clay and buff cheap, buffing machine not so cheap.

Just my $.02 from having disgusting headlights at one point.

Granted onced buffed you will need to touch them up once a year as maintenance... Not sure if there was a protective film from the factory that gets destroyed once old/buffed off.

I know TMI. :)
Click to expand...

More TMI, yes there is a protective coating applied to the polycarbonate plastic. Same stuff they use to protect polycarbonate lenses in sunglasses. I know because I financed the company that had 80% of the market in the stuff. They were spun off from a huge glass maker and picked up by a private equity firm. The margins on their potions were huge, but the market was not. A little bit of the stuff went a long way.

BTW I tried to find Aces thread. Man he posts a lot of.....stuff.
 
Last edited:
I've been trying to get this question answered for years! I've polished my lenses, even replaced one side, but once the mirror inside gets corroded or whatever, buffing wont help. I'm nearly ready to replace them, and I like how the euro/diamond cut light housings look, but if they are not a performance advantage, then I refuse to buy them just for looks.
 
Detroit Dan said:
I've been trying to get this question answered for years! I've polished my lenses, even replaced one side, but once the mirror inside gets corroded or whatever, buffing wont help. I'm nearly ready to replace them, and I like how the euro/diamond cut light housings look, but if they are not a performance advantage, then I refuse to buy them just for looks.
Click to expand...

Precisely what I want to know about the euro/diamond cut housings. Also, where do I get them? I could not find them on Rock Auto today.

I'm so over the polishing thing. Once you've gone thru the protective coating you're doing it every year. For $25 or $50 a housing, it's worth it for me. I travel 100% on my job, so when I'm home on the weekend, I want to be out on my boat fishing or in the mountains offroading with the wife and pooches.
 
Got mine at LMC truck, they do throw a bright beam, (truckers cuss me all time for having high beams on when low, until I turn on the highs with the 4 on switches then they shut up.

But alas the also are starting to frost like the OEM ones do, why don't the make a glass one I've tried several versions of the polycarb, all do the same thing, just frost at different rates
 
I've got a set of LMC's crystal clear headlights & like them. Had planned to do the mod so the low & high beams both light when on "bright" but after seeing the improvement just from the new lense housings/bulbs, I didn't feel it was necessary/beneficial.

Wasn't certain from TD's post if he had the stock replacements or the crystal clear?

The ones I have are # 37-7350 & were $ 150 & come w/ bulbs. Also opted for their import sourced hd harness/relay set that pulls power directly from the batt's.

http://www.lmctruck.com/features/cd/CDER0.htm

Don't see any noticeable dulling/yellowing yet, but they've only been run for a year & a half.
 
Crystal clears on it now been about 2 years and are just starting to frost a little, but a lot of bugs and many miles commuting so some of the frosting from bug guts and grit balst from road grit I would guess, these appear to be external frosting vs OEM and aftermarket ones which have frosted from inside, tomorrow I'll try to grab a picture

years ago I bought Kennedys HD harness 2001 or 2002 maybe, probably gonna add HIDs as well
 
On another forum, I read about some guys making comments that after they polished the ones on their GM cars back to life (and some were horrible to the point that I can't believe they didn't get in an accident) and then clear coated them for a sealer of sorts. It might be worth trying. I cleared my tail lights on the GP daily driver with a rattle can, but if I was doing headlights, it would be with some good PPG product.
 
If you want the best headlights, I suggest swapping to a Work Truck grille and running Cibie E Code headlights. You will need to install relays and the related wiring but the results are well worth it.
DSCF0780.jpg
 
matuva said:
Those are the ones I had from ebay : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300420223016&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

They throw a nice a bright beam, evenly spread. This is probably because of the caps you can see inside.
I tried others with no caps and the beam wasn't fine, just a stripe.

Those ones, you have to check and ensure you waterproof them by sealing with silicone.

With my HID, they turn a bit yellowish after 2 years.
Click to expand...

Matuva, I like the ebay prices, but I have a couple questions.

1) All of the listings show '89 to '98 C/K trucks, yet I have a '99. They look the same, but are they really?

2) When you say "caps" are you referring to the mushroom thing over the outside (low beam) light in the housing?

3) Anyone have experience, comments regarding the housings with the LED Halo around the high beam light?
 
bobbiemartin said:
If you want the best headlights, I suggest swapping to a Work Truck grille and running Cibie E Code headlights. You will need to install relays and the related wiring but the results are well worth it.
DSCF0780.jpg
Click to expand...

only problem with that is the work truck grill and headlights is FUGLY!
 
I'm going with the ones Matuva linked to, I trust his opinion and experience. I already have HID lows, all4onhi mod and just got a set of HIDs for the high beams.
I have yet to have a single person flash me with my low beams on since putting the HIDs in. Must be that they are aimed correctly and my trucks stance is not dragging aZZ
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top