Head gasket

[dbrannon79]

for something you only need to use once in a while. Amazon has one for a reasonable price. just be weary on the cheaper you go the less of quality you get. mainly the accuracy of the gauge.

this one seems to be decent.

https://www.amazon.com/YUAN-Diesel-Compression-Automotive-Compressor/dp/B07FLTBH6C

 

[dbrannon79]

Also check with you local auto parts houses. some will rent out these tools. you basically pay for it and get you money back when you return it.

 

[dbrannon79]

another mechanics best friend is the thunder striker 9000 LOL makes life easier when doing a compression test.

Amazon.com

 

[Goose57]

another mechanics best friend is the thunder striker 9000 LOL makes life easier when doing a compression test.

Amazon.com

Thanks I do have on similar

 

[jrsavoie]

I had to buy the glow plug adapter for the 6.5 in addition to the tester.

I think there might be a thread about it someplace.

 

[dbrannon79]

when looking for the adapter. even questioning if the kit has it included the thread pitch is 10mm x 1.0. the adapter will look like this one, it has a schrader valve in the threaded end.

 

[Goose57]

Thanks so much guys I do want to make sure I get the correct one for my truck. You guys are saving me from a lot of trouble.

 

[Goose57]

Thanks so much guys I do want to make sure I get the correct one for my truck. You guys are saving me from a lot of trouble.

 

[Goose57]

Hi all, back at my head gasket problem. Started it up to move to garage after sitting since March, ran crappy but smooth out, let it idle in garage for a couple minutes no white some coming from tailpipe like before. Maybe a Gremlin fixed my truck while it was sitting. Not!!! Took will,s advice and pulled the stat. crossover and started it up and boy there was an eruption off coolant coming out Of the driver,s side head cooling passage. Was not expecting that much maybe just a few bubbles. At least I know which side. Still have to compression tests (Dry). Run my borescope in the glow plug holes on that side, hell if I see damage to the top of the piston or any where else I shouldn’t have to pull the heads, new motor time. Still have to pull the passenger side W.well to get to GP holes for tests. Got a question when doing compression tests. Can I pull all of the GP.s at once or only do one at a time And put it back in ( that’s what she said . I’ll keep u guys posted. Thanks Gus.
PS Question should I post here (post reply) if I haven’t been on here for a while or should I make a new thread. Because I also posted this post to a new thread the one with a title in 6.5 diesel threads. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[Will L.]

Best thing imo is keep this one and just abandon the other thread.

disconnect power to the fuel solenoid and the glow plug controller connector(leave the 8 big wires is ok). Pull all 8 of the plugs first, then crank a few revolutions with the compression tester to make sure no water is coming out of the holes.

Make sure it is a diesel compression tester not gasoline engine one. Our much higher compression can’t be read on the low 300psi pressure gasoline gauge. Most diesel testers have a gauge to 1,000 psi. For this engine I prefer the gauge that goes to 600 psi because you can get a more accurate reading ( not required though) The digital ones are nice because they are exact- but are a lot more money and often not rented out. A really healthy stock 6.5 is around 400 psi. Crank at least 5 revolutions each time to peak the reading. Write down each as you go. Remember cylinders are numbered front to back -driver side 1,3,5,7 passenger side 2,4,6,8.

If local parts stores don’t have the ‘free rental’ then amazon, harbor freight, etc. if you we’re doing it all the time a pro tool is better but if you only do a few engines with it the cheaper ones are fine.

A request- when typing a lot throw in a space every few sentences, Many of us are on phones, and it helps follow easier.

 

[Goose57]

Best thing imo is keep this one and just abandon the other thread.

disconnect power to the fuel solenoid and the glow plug controller connector(leave the 8 big wires is ok). Pull all 8 of the plugs first, then crank a few revolutions with the compression tester to make sure no water is coming out of the holes.

Make sure it is a diesel compression tester not gasoline engine one. Our much higher compression can’t be read on the low 300psi pressure gasoline gauge. Most diesel testers have a gauge to 1,000 psi. For this engine I prefer the gauge that goes to 600 psi because you can get a more accurate reading ( not required though) The digital ones are nice because they are exact- but are a lot more money and often not rented out. A really healthy stock 6.5 is around 400 psi. Crank at least 5 revolutions each time to peak the reading. Write down each as you go. Remember cylinders are numbered front to back -driver side 1,3,5,7 passenger side 2,4,6,8.

If local parts stores don’t have the ‘free rental’ then amazon, harbor freight, etc. if you we’re doing it all the time a pro tool is better but if you only do a few engines with it the cheaper ones are fine.

A request- when typing a lot throw in a space every few sentences, Many of us are on phones, and it helps follow easier.

Thanks Will, will do on the connectors.
have a cheap one from HF not planning on doing this a lot i hope.
yea LOL i certainly do type a lot.
Thanks.

 

[dbrannon79]

Took will,s advice and pulled the stat. crossover and started it up and boy there was an eruption off coolant coming out Of the driver,s side head cooling passage. Was not expecting that much maybe just a few bubbles.

Just out of curiosity, you did pull the belt off the water pump when you did this test?? I didn't see if you mentioned that detail and was just making sure.

 

[Goose57]

Just out of curiosity, you did pull the belt off the water pump when you did this test?? I didn't see if you mentioned that detail and was just making sure.

Thanks for checking me 79. Yes. Had to pull alternator and bracket to get the crossover off. I did do a couple of more things since last post. Pulled all GP,s #7 wet. Cranked to get coolant out.
went to hook up HF cheap comp. tester and adaptor to short dammit . When back to HF and upgraded to the Master test kit w/ the extension hoses. Will be getting back to it today. Yea I was surprised how much coolant was coming out of the coolant passage on that side. Maybe with luck #7 still has good compression. My plan is ( if the rest of the cylinders test good?) try to snake borescope through valve guide to check for damage, slap a head gasket on that side and recheck #7. I’ll just be out gaskets and studs . I will be no where near the tester. I hope the wet cylinder doesn’t fool me on test reading. The coolants been drained, lower hose off. Maybe I should pop the heated freeze plug out. I hope a little coolant won’t hurt the tester since I have the master set LOL . Thanks again.

 

[jrsavoie]

I wouldn't pull and reinstall a head without getting it checked

 

[Will L.]

Coolant shooting out is a gonner. Don’t bother with compression testing that cylinder
You can do the other 7.

The fact that it is cylinder 7 means 90% chance the block is cracked. (cylinder 8 does same thing)

 

[93detroit]

Will, where would that crack most likely be?

 

[Wreckinball67]

That's what happened to my 98 with just over 90k miles...it was passenger side rear cylinder...waste of a good running engine. There were no other issues and ran great but, the block was cracked. I initially thought I had a blown head gasket because it sat for 2 weeks and when I tried to start it it hydro locked. Pulled all glow plugs and liquid came out of the rear cylinder. I still thought maybe it was fuel and had a leaking injector but, further investigation indicated coolant...I was thinking head gasket til I happened upon the crack. I had no idea the 97- 98 models were prone to this.
The piston was at the bottom of the stroke (luckily) or I wouldn't have seen it. I first noticed what looked like perspiration where I eventually noticed the crack (Sharpie arrow indicates crack).
I fixed it with a new GEP long block and sold the original for parts.
Good luck

 

[Will L.]

@93detroit cylinder wall linear crack just like wreckinball67 posted. Not always that bad and most if time (80%) is cylinder 8.

It CAN be fixed…. Resleeve. Problem is expensive so most don’t.

Still do the compression test before tear down so you know if the other side is crunchy or not. Just don’t do that cylinder

 

[Goose57]

I did the compression test and got the head off today. The only thing I regret is not warming up the motor before tearing into it and doing the compression test. The cold compression test : #1:295 #3:250 #5:250 #2:280
#4:285 #6:275 #310. did each each one twice and these were the highest, cranked for 6 revolutions. Does not look. Doesn’t matter the head gasket did not have any damage. Looks like I need a motor. Could not see anything in the cylinder Like wreckenball67,s. But with the gasket inspection and the amount of coolant coming out of the passage like will said I’m pretty sure. Thoughts? The tear a the top in the picture of the gasket is my fault Oops! Pictures aren’t to good hard to get to. Thanks guys.

 

[Husker6.5]

You know what I see in the top photo of that head? A crack between the seats of the intake and exhaust valves and definite signs of burnt coolant around that crack! Which Cyl # does that go to? If it's the one you found coolant in, there's the source of your leak, not a cracked cylinder!