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Head Gasket Sealer Query; Sludge In Oil, Always Low On Coolant...

CORVAIRWILD

CORVAIRWILD

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Location
In Arizona, buying another diesel Suburban
Title says it all... A good friend recommended K&W head gasket magic. I have a bottle of something from a truck I sold. Sub is the 'Weasel, a '95 6.5TD 4x4 3/4 ton w 250k. Recommendations?

http://www.amazon.com/NanoTechnology-Permanent-Gasket-Repair-401232/product-reviews/B000EGNBMO

I havn't read this yet...

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27954

Havn't read this either..

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Has_anyone_used_KW_block_and_gasket_sealer_did_it_work

Lots of reading...

https://www.google.com/search?q=k&w...s=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a
 

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Seriously?
You already know the answer. Pull it down and see if the heads cracked or if the water pump timing cover is leaking. Otherwise you may have a cracked block or cylinder. Last would be luck of just a head gasket failure from miles.
I don't think any cures in a bottle buy you enough time and coolant will ruin bearings, cylinder walls, etc. in short order.
 
I haven"t used K&W but I have used Red Devil. I had a cust. that had a blown head gasket in a Toyota and he had no money, so I told him we could try This stuff called Red Devil, but I have never used it. He said ok lets try it. It had a total dead cylinder, I poured that stuff in, and in a minute or so, it had an occasional miss, and in about 5 minutes it was totally smooth. I told him it was temp. and didn't know how long it would work. A couple months later he came in and told me he took it to L.A. and back without any problems(about 400 miles).

Don't know how long it will work on a diesel though.
 
My leak is tiny, and no ruff running... I have a friend w a 3400 Grand Am, 84 k, and he was losing Prestone pretty bad. It's always the intake manifold, and he threw in some Barrs leak, and problem solved. I even put my pressure tester on it, no leak at all! Not much pressure there of course, but...
 
if u have sludge in ur oil, and are always low on coolant its not that small a leak and i would guess any of the liquid h/g fixes wouldnt do much. I had a tiny leak in mine i think, i had no sludge, no smoke, and would lose a very small amount of coolant over months . I added some of that Barrs headgasket fix to it and its worked great but mine was a very very small leak. If i were u id just tear it down and check whats broke instead of pouring a ton of chemicals in trying to fix it when its a big leak.
 
I worked in fleets for years. I tried Just about every concoction out there. If. You are in dire straights and need to squeeze 1 or 2 thousand miles out of it you MIGHT be lucky enough to get away with it- I say average of 10% make it that far. At the same time, 99% of the engines turned into scrap weight.

If I am put in the position I would buy a beater moped for $100.00 and drive that before doing this to a 6.5.

I have experimented with co. trucks and mine. Trust me the water pump weep hole showed up to me in Death Valley this summer and I did the 2 raw eggs in the radiator trick to get home. It worked well, until I just tore it down for the cam bearing failure (unrelated) and had to spend $50 and about 3 extra hours cleaning that mess out of everything. It saved me a couple thousand in tow, hotel and lost work so a good move in the end but given another option...

If you tear it down and find cracked heads or block and can't afford new engine now then you could throw it back together and a bottle of hope&pray and your out a couple hundred bucks. Then you can an for what is not what might be. It's just that proper diagnosis of a problem is always cheeper than shot gunning parts at it. If you know you will keep the rig then just make the investment now of head studs instead of replacing tty bolts this time and next. The key to these rigs is think long term. Do you own another vehical? If so use it until you can afford to fix this one right. It will cost you more money and aggravation in the long run to bandaid it.
 
I won't quote Will, but I own several vehicles, my summer DD, '84 Sub, 6.2, Mrs is the HG Sub, '84 K5 w 6.2 plow truck, (put on 235 miles in 1 year), '93 Hyundai Excel spare beater, '62 Corvair Spyder turbo vert, '64 Corvair Monza vert in body shop, '93 Silverado 6.5 I hope to put a slide in camper this summer for a road trip. + 2 more 6.5 subs, 1 for sale, 1 getting slow motion engine swap, to sell as well.

So all the miracle head gasket stuff is a wish and a prayer? I'll forward this post to a friend who swears by K&W.

what would a pressure test show? I have the rad pump tool
 
Last time I cracked a head on a 6.2 because the block heater fell out on the freeway....

Ran it for 6 months adding coolant. Finally pulled the cracked head on an engine with 70K on the clock.

There wasn't any crosshatch left on the cylinder walls. A bad thing for a diesel!

Coolant in the oil will ruin an engine faster than clunker bomb. Even small leaks that the miracle in a can lets through will do damage to bearings from lube failure and corrosion/boiling pitting. Also letting an engine sit for a few months after a coolant leak will rust it up bad. Hydro lock or bending a rod is possible.

Again, other things can leak like the timing cover and water pump area.
 
No such thing as magic. Stuff works on a whim chance, seen it work, seen it not. If it does do you drive long distance, and if you do do you want to know this in the back of your head. With the compression over the 20:1 ratio its going to be hard to seal a hole.
 
I suppose @ $10 how can I miss? My friend who's used it says part of the instructions is to disconnect the heater hoses, so it has a certain ability to block/clog stuff. I guess I'll be the guinea pig. Worst case? It'll keep leaking I suppose.

Story... I bot a used oil boiler, and the studs for heating coil for potable water were rusted/siezed, so I heated the cast iron boiler, and promptly cracked it, twice. I V'd the crack, it's less than 1/4" thick, applied JB Weld, and that was almost 20 years ago. Imagine how many heat/cool cycles that has been? It seeps a tiny amount. It also runs at less than 15lbs pressure
 
How can you miss? By losing a salvageable block, heads, turbo, etc. So if it works so good it could plug up a heater core do you have to bypass the radiator too? How's about the t-stat, remove then reinstall. Does it cause build up on the water pump vanes as well as some of the eddy current areas in the coolant flow areas of the block and heads. What else can I remember having to clean out? I just threw away the radiator caps as the vacuum port plugs beyond belief, air bleeder screws tended to lock up but are cleanable. If you do run it make sure you clean it out as soon as the engine comes apart because the better sealing stuff turns into a concrete like material inside the cast iron if you let it dry out for a couple weeks and the block/heads never cool the same again because the coolant can't get in contact with the metal.

I'm not trying to come across rough but understand if it worked great and didn't have major drawbacks no one would take their vehicles to mechanic shops for these repairs. Have you ever used tire slime in a tire then later tried to put a patch in it? Twice the work -more added cost long term. I'm confused, if you don't need that one fixed out of necessity y not try to fix it the right way. If the head gasket is seeping and the goop patches that little spot there is a failure that is just going to pop up 1/8" to the left.
Hopefully you can get away with it.
 
I know it sucks putting that green slime in ur tires to fill punctures, a lot of shops will get very mad when de-rimming a tire and thats in there.
 
When you talk to them, ask it like a quote, "how much more do you charge me when I have you rebuild this if I used product x ?"

dieselslug: ya when they set a repair price it's based on a 10 minute patch job, when it turns into 45 minutes and using up cleaning chems that normally do 20 tires they just lost money, or they have do do a half*** job and be concerned about the warranty work. Air conditioning leak w/ can-o-goo? Same thing and in some of the new 12 and 11 oz. systems the evap. and condensers are non flush able due to the sizes. Here in Fabulous Las Vegas (a/c seasonal repair is 6 months long) for my time as the Mac Tool guy I can't tell you how many shops had to change entire systems because someone had a oring seep (common problem on those low volume higher pressure ones) save money in April only spend ALOT more come June.

All the same thing. Like a credit card you save cash now, pay a lot more later. I'm not saying it is never the right choice but if it is Vegas or the lottery ticket counter is the place for you with those odds.
 
Some have had good luck with "Clearwater Cylinder Heads" aka "Heads by CCH"
 
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