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Head gasket job under way

Mudbath

Mudbath

Old Smoky
Messages
394
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1
Location
Alberta, Canada
Well I got the driver's side head off, but damaged the HG too much for it to tell me a story. It is 16 years old and 252,000 kms so I figure it is living on borrowed time and did suspect a leak out the back. One thing I did find is the blocking plate studs on back of head were loose, I took them out with my fingers so that could have been my Leak, unless they loosened when I removed the nuts, I don't remember what was mounted on the studs. Possibly glow plug solenoid.

Don't see any cracks between valves and there are very small cracks on the cups. 3 combustion chambers are smooth but one is pitted like rust? May have been a bit of coolant seeping into that cylinder.

One last thing, do you remove the exhaust manifold before removing the head, I did not and it was a heavy and awkward SOB. I just didn't want to fight to get it off first. But if it is doable, I will put them back separately , do not want to #@%$ the HD. :mad2:


PS I have a whole bunch of used TTY head bolts for sale! :D
 
I would probably try to put them back on separately, if I didn't have somebody to help me...

I'm gonna "one up ya" here.. I have got a whole bunch of TTY head bolts for free.99 .. LOL
 
It just looked real hard to get at the exhaust bolts, never mind using a torque wrench. Do you have to remove inner fender or anything else?? Lifting that head back in gently as to not damage the HG in those tight spaces worries me. Hope I can find someone to give me a hand like my son, but he lives out of town.
 
I got a bad back and I did it by myself. it aint that bad. I would pull the pass side fender but I have never needed to pull the drivers side one. Best way is to climb into the engine compt. If your a big guy, then take the hood off. That helps alot. It's only 4 bolts. Scribe the hood to the hinge for alignment .
 
If you have a cherry picker.. you could bolt a chain to the head with the manifold still on it and have somebody lower it slowly till you get it set in place.. just a thought.
 
I have done all the above. Definitly pull the hood. Cherry picker works really good even if you have help. It really helps keeps things from dropping provided the one runnin the valve on the picker has a slow trigger finger!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Check inside the head ports for cracks with extra attention to the pitted cyl. The glow plug controller sits on the coolant plate studs. It tends to lock the studs and prevents loosening. Likely they came loose when you removed the glow plug controller nuts. Not that it wasn't leaking from possible gasket failure anyway...

Why did you pull the head?
 
Leak out the back which seemed to be coming from gasket. Hard to see back there, but I had cleaned area with Brake Kleen and dried off and then checked again (only did it when engine hot and continued until cooled). After being cleaned it was dry above gasket and wet below. That plus 16 years and 252,000 kms.
 
I like the cherry picker idea as I can leave the exh manifold on, saves doing it after and saves me and the HD gasket. I already have passenger side head off , but didn't really want to remove the driver's side! Didn't look like it would help a lot , mainly the steering column in the way.
 
A little tool I made up to chase the Head Threads. I had an old grease gun and took the handle off and pressed onto the tap (a nut of the right size will work too) Great for the tighter spaces!

M12x1.75 Tap size
 

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Acesneights1 said:
If your a big guy, then take the hood off. That helps alot. It's only 4 bolts. Scribe the hood to the hinge for alignment .
Click to expand...
On my 1995 Suburban - and I'm assuming all 88-99's are the same - I did not have to remove the hood. The hood can be opened almost straight up and I could get the engine in and out with plenty of clearance.

First remove the wipers. Next, remove the two small covers at each end of the cowl, they are held on by a small Philips head screw. Then remove the springs on each side of the hood. Now you can open the hood all the way. You will need something to hold the hood open, I used a strap to the luggage rack, on a truck you will need to rig up something.

This was much easier for me, no messing with removing and storing the hood or alignment issues when done.
 
Sounds like things are going fine......Just take your time, take a lot of pics, for reassembly, and ask/get the advice from the TTS Head/Gasket removal alumni.

Slow and steady wins the race.
 
OK got the heads off and doing some cleaning of parts. There are some small cracks in the cups and one small crack between valves on # 8 cylinder.:mad2: They are all small and I won't be pulling with this truck any more, Don't drive it much anymore just used for around the home truck things.

Looking for a couple things, maybe GM only (recommended?)


OPS GM or AC Delco only? 19244500 $75.70

CPS GM or AC Delco only? 12557046 $86.50

Rocker Arm buttons, any body have a GM number, stealer can't find number OR is after market available?

Glow plug harness stealer can't find this either, I found this one, nice but expensive. Anybody have a supplier for cheaper?
http://www.ptwiringsolutions.com/Glow_Plug_Harness.html
 
I finally found a GM # for the rocker arm retainers

GM #23500076

I would still like to know if I can get these from some where other than the stealer. Thanks
 
Thanks Marty, I had hoped to get local, but with Rock Auto prices I think that might be the way to go. Browsing Rock Auto now.:thumbsup:
 
Call Kingsway Automotive. They used to be able to get darn-near anything...

2806 17 Ave SE
Calgary, AB T2A 0P8
(403)-207-5151


 
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