• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Harmonic Balancer

Matt Bachand

Matt Bachand

Depends on the 6.5
Messages
5,330
Reaction score
26
Location
Worcester, MA
Paranoia from an exhaust leak and I notice a wobble in the Harmonic Balancer so i'm swapping it out. (Hopefully I'm not just wishful thinking)

I can use any pulley installer to put the HB Back on?

The noise went away with high idle, sounded like it was coming from the turbo downpipe, but could never pin point it. I tighted that clamp and it didn't go away, but eventually went away completely as I was probing everything looking for it. Sounded like coming from back of engine kindof turbo area, but could never pinpoint it for sure anywhere. (AND I HAD MY WHEEL/LINER OUT! Too!) It sounded really scratchy.... had me really nervous thinking bad engine. ???

Odd it just SLOWLY quieted and gone. So the tightened turbo clamp must have vibrated itself into a better seal/seat.

These recent threads got me thinking HB and it seems wobble, I ran a wrench on it as it idled and it wasn't a perfect smoothness, as is was a few years ago I did the same thing and noticed it looked wobble, but was actually true.

Not this time, has some in-out wobble, side to side smooth, but hold on the front and back EDGE and it wobbles a good 1/8-1/4.

Paranoia got the truck ripped apart, work cancelled for tomorrow, and Harmonic Balancer ordered up and arriving at 7:30AM to takle this once and for all before I roll the dice to long waiting for the Fluidampr.

It would be all to ironic to lose an engine, because wanted a fluidampr, and never did it in time for the 60 dollar stocker.

I'll be happy after a day of use with the new HB stocker, telling everyone how smooth and powerful my truck feels. I hope!:thumbsup:

So before I Impact that bad boy tight (let em rip), what should I press the balancer on with?
 
Matt, My dually had a similar noise as you are describing. Look for small amount of black soot between the turbo and the head. if you see ANY it could mean your ex manifold is shot . Mine was. I have a brand new one sitting here if you need it as long as you replace it. it's on the shelf waiting to go on the CUCV.
 
Anyone know where any good balancer links are? can't search for HB so nobody calls it harmonic balancer only once in a tittle, and not often.

I remember one from Missy and she talked how she rattled the bolt on with impact, and then waited for it to fill up and give it one more rattle.

Can't find it.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Matt, My dually had a similar noise as you are describing. Look for small amount of black soot between the turbo and the head. if you see ANY it could mean your ex manifold is shot . Mine was. I have a brand new one sitting here if you need it as long as you replace it. it's on the shelf waiting to go on the CUCV.
Click to expand...

I bet thats it Kenny. It JUST JUST started, and didn't do when driving only at idle.... Damn that thing looks SCARY SCARY rusty too.

Thanks Kenny. It was a raw enough sound to be that, and it held a pattern kindof. (with engine). Deep scratchy sound. (I even looked at my fan shroud once or twice), ...

I thought torque converter once or twice... I was all over this thing trying to find it. Then it went away. I also sprayed purple power all over the back of the head cylinder #8 was oily, and the downpipe looking for it to spray back. I bet it was the manifold/head area. I'm gonna get in there good tomorrow as I change out the HB. I bet wetting it helped it seal up the little bit that its leaking.

I can sleep better now. Thanks Kenny.

I'm sure I can order one up and wait for it if thats what it is. Just be annoying, right?
 
An excellent time to do the crossover. Get the Flowmaster from Summit racing. It's the best quality/deal out there and they ship lightening fast but look for the black soot first. That is the sign. I bought the manifold off ebay for 99$. I have NOT tried it on the truck yet but I know others have bought from the guy and it looks ok. Don't worry about the ex manifold bolts, they should come out. What's going to break are the ex manifold studs for the crossover but if you are getting a new manifold anyway it won't matter. The studs are metric IIRC but can easily be found at any auto parts store. I used ex manifod gaskets because my head also looks a little beat up from probably being run too long with the leak by PO.
 
Soot covers everything as the old manifold warps and fails. Replace both sides as the other side is close to failing too.

Ebay manifolds are good - used them myself and to the extreme...

I would not use a rattle gun on a crankshaft bolt due to the lack of oil in all main and rod bearings. Thus beating the bearings with the impact. Impact guns can fall short of the proper TQ and have the bolt come loose.

Use a tool to lock the flywheel and use a TQ wrench on the front bolt. A cheater bar may be required to get the high torque.
 
WarWagon said:
Soot covers everything as the old manifold warps and fails. Replace both sides as the other side is close to failing too.

Ebay manifolds are good - used them myself and to the extreme...

I would not use a rattle gun on a crankshaft bolt due to the lack of oil in all main and rod bearings. Thus beating the bearings with the impact. Impact guns can fall short of the proper TQ and have the bolt come loose.

Use a tool to lock the flywheel and use a TQ wrench on the front bolt. A cheater bar may be required to get the high torque.
Click to expand...

I'm not a lover of using an Impact gun on the crank either. I didn't see any DS manifolds for sale on eBay but then again I wasn't looking real hard either. I got a pretty decent size ratchet/torque wrench. I also have 3/4 drive regular ratchets and sockets if you need to borrow something. I'm not sure what is acceptable tolerance on a HB but if the rubber is not cracked or falling out then it's probably ok. A dial indicator would be the best way to check for run out.
 
Matt Bachand said:
Paranoia from an exhaust leak and I notice a wobble in the Harmonic Balancer so i'm swapping it out. (Hopefully I'm not just wishful thinking)

I can use any pulley installer to put the HB Back on?
Click to expand...

Most universal balancer installer kits do not have the correct thread for the crank. At least the ones I found didn't. That is why I made a tool from an old bolt. I don't recall the thread, its metric and an uncommon one at that. Hard to find the bolts anywhere except a large wholesale supplier or the dealer. If you have one, an old bearing shell works great when used on the flywheel teeth to keep the crank from turning. I recommend a torque wrench to install the bolt, but I torque everything I can.
 
I just put a new Fluidampr on mine over the weekend. I changed mine out for the same reason...The Wobble. I had to get someone to weld 2 bolts together for the installer tool since as pointed out the threads are uncommon in most puller sets (even the loaner from autozone). I purchased the bolt for a couple bucks from McMaster-Carr. The Part # is 91180A865 and its a M16x1.5 (most are M16 x 2.0). I didn't use an impact for removal or installation (didn't want to trash the main). It came of easy with a loaner tool (autozone) and installed easy with some Molly lube on the shaft....torqued to 200Ft Lbs. I did replace the Front Seal while I was there...and got a new Pulley with Lifetime Warranty from Napa. My Original didn't look that bad....but the rubber was starting to hairline crack from age.

The truck SEEMS to rev smoother and idle a tad quiter....

Here was a helpful Link I found...

http://www.thedieselpage.com/features/fluidampr.htm
 
I took pictures, used no impact, and the kit I used from Advanced Puller/installer kit 99.99 returnbale had all parts to remove and press on.

It didn't fix my issue, so I'm not it the uploading mood waiting for mechanic friend to come by, and putting off making the canceling phonecall for my afternoon jobs, that I will get alot of sighs and grief about..................

HB job went super easy and super smooth though. It almost went on too easy by hand... I wonder if my shaft is worn.... I did press it on a little more (I think), but was able to push it on pretty far by hand.
 
Detroit Dan said:
I need pics. Want to do my HB soon. I'd rather not pay the shop to do it, unless I can't do it right.
Click to expand...

Replacing the HB is very easy. Almost any cheap ($10-15) universal puller from Harbor Freight or any chain auto parts store will remove the balancer. I use a bearing shell on the flywheel teeth to keep the crank from spinning, which requires the crossover & trans cover to be removed. I use a installer tool to put the new one on and you will need a torque wrench to tighten the bolt.

GEPdamperinstall.jpg

Damper installer tool slides the new balancer right on.

GEPTimingTag.jpg

Big bolt should be torqued to spec (200 lbs. feet I think) Then its just a matter of 4 bolts for the pulley - they are also torqued of course!

BTW, I bet with a little searching one could find an installer tool and maybe some good used dampers in the for sale section!
 
Matt Bachand said:
HB job went super easy and super smooth though. It almost went on too easy by hand... I wonder if my shaft is worn.... I did press it on a little more (I think), but was able to push it on pretty far by hand.
Click to expand...



Or the HB isnt to spec...or your superman with the engine in the truck. I would suspect the HB before the crank unless you see obvious signs of wear....oh and there was a key in there.......
 
WarWagon said:
Stevens is the same company that has a different name, SpecialtyParts, on ebay.

Ebay:
Item number: 250639068672

Application: Drivers Side (LEFT) 1412L

GM,CHEVROLET 6.2 DSL. 1988-93

GM,CHEVROLET 6.5 DSL.,TURBO DSL. 1994-2002

Casting # 12557359

Stevens

705 N. Throckmorton
Fort Worth, Texas 76164.

Phone: 800-443-2673 Fax: 817-336-2676

E-mail: [email protected]

http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/specialtyengineparts/

http://www.stevensparts.com/
Click to expand...

I question whether the DS is the same as used on a 6.2. IN fact I would love to know that for sure since I plan in Turbo'in my CUCV. As far as Turbo side manifold, be careful. There are two different ones as I found out . They are interchagable but you will need 3(IIRC) shorter bolts if you have the one with all long bolts. In fact I am almost sure the DS manifolds are not tha same because I know the donuts for the 6.5 are bigger and most Auytopart stores give you 6.2 ones when you try to get 6.5TD ones. IN fact I buy the donuts from the Stealer and they are bigger than the 6.2 ones.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top