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Harmonic balancer bolt

I'd Say,at least a tablespoon or 2 of oil came out when I removed the bolt.

Is this normal?

Do I just not remember?

Did the oil travel along the crankshaft until it got to the washer and then leak back along the threads to get behind the bolt?
To fill the cavity behind the end of the bolt on the crankshaft?
 
For that reason I always apply a small amout of No.1 permatex to the crankshaft side of the washer and some under the head of the bolt.
Oil will flow around the threads of the bolt and cranking shaft but it will be sealed from flowing out around the washer and bolt head.
And if a sealer is not used, oil will leak out and make quite a mess.
Making most believe that there is a front crankshaft seal leak and then they think what a POS, I just replaced that seal.
 
Big T said:
You've got a leaking crankshaft seal. Fix the root cause.
Click to expand...
Not until I find my puller and installer tools. I will probably find them much faster once I actually look for them, instead of casually keeping an eye out.

Hopefully Tuesday or Wednesday.

Pheasants Forever Young Guns Banquet today.

A guy is coming tomorrow to drop a 100+ year old ash tree. Planted when my Dad was 9 years old.

Dr on Monday. & Wednesday. Hopefully that's it. I might skip the Wednesday appointment if I like what I hear from the first cardiologist. Had bad EKG and echos.
Last time the Wednesday doctor wanted to do stuff and the Monday Dr said, you'll be fine. He's an older guy. I like him and trust his judgement better.

We need to mow. The last I checked the lift pump wasn't working on the mower. Possible plugged filter. Possible wiring issues. Possible bad lift pump. Might find something out when I look at it.

We're looking for another mower.
Found one by Green Bay and the guy said he'd deliver. The 62" deck is smaller than we want. I have a 72" deck that would fit it. But would have to order parts from a guy in Florida to make it work.

Another local guy, that may be a member here, he used to have 6.5's,
Is wanting to trade an ExMark Kubota diesel for my 20' tilt trailer.

The trailer needs tires, fenders and lights installed. Since I don't get much done, I'm game to eliminate a project
 
Last edited:
100% it is the front crankshaft seal. Instead of the single lip seal, you can get a double lip seal and it will do a better job. Often people don’t notice the fine scratches on the crankshaft and that is the source of a new seal failure. Our friends as Speedy Sleeve have a perfect solution for it. And any machine shop can remove a Speedy Sleeve when polishing an old crank during rebuild- no problem. So if in doubt, add it.

Wanna go a step further and do a front seal extra snazzy? Send that sucker to Chris for coating it. There are seals on critical equipment that comes factory coated for a reason- it works.

About adding the silicone to HB bolt head & washer but NEVER the threads. Then tie a bucket under balancer, and a pump to push the oil back up top later! Haha. Really the right answer is replacing the seal because ya never know when the silicone on the washer fails and up to that point maybe the seal gets a full tear. It is rare but if the seal tears it will dump oil on a long trip and ruin the engine. I have seen aftermarket manuals that tell you to add silicone to the washer and bolt head but cannot recall a GM or GEP manual saying to do so.

As much as I hate oil leaks- it is better to have it leak and be noticed so that you fix it before an annoyance leak becomes an engine killer imo.

Removing and reinstalling the balancer is more effort than replacing the seal.

Most 6.5’s require a waterpump replacement half way through their lives. My process was always replacing the front seal (Speedy sleeve as needed) timing chain, waterpump, thermostat all at the same time. For professional use trucks it made sense to do new serp belt and all coolant hoses at the same time. So I start with a coolant flush.
 
jrsavoie said:
Around the harmonic balancer.
Click to expand...
There is a shaft, the seal is around the shaft.
It may still be outside the cover.

When I replaced the HB/Crank Pulley, I gave the mechanic a "round seal with lips" in addition to the pulleys.
Will said, it is called "front Crankshaft seal"

It has been a while but somebody should have a diagram somewhere.

Something like this:
 
It shouldn’t. There is a rear keyway for the timing gears. Then a flat spot on the crank where the seal rides. Then another keyway where the balancer goes.
If the keyway went all the way front to back you would rip any seal apart in 5 seconds and loose all your oil in one drive.
 
It's not my first rodeo. But it just as well be. I don't remember a dang thang.
I do have 2 seals here. I think the timing chain has already been changed on this vehicle, otherwise I'd go after that while I'm in.the neighborhood.

I was thinking the seal went on the Balancer instead of the crankshaft.

It's amazing what I don't remember.
 
Will L. said:
100% it is the front crankshaft seal. Instead of the single lip seal, you can get a double lip seal and it will do a better job. Often people don’t notice the fine scratches on the crankshaft and that is the source of a new seal failure. Our friends as Speedy Sleeve have a perfect solution for it. And any machine shop can remove a Speedy Sleeve when polishing an old crank during rebuild- no problem. So if in doubt, add it.

Wanna go a step further and do a front seal extra snazzy? Send that sucker to Chris for coating it. There are seals on critical equipment that comes factory coated for a reason- it works.

About adding the silicone to HB bolt head & washer but NEVER the threads. Then tie a bucket under balancer, and a pump to push the oil back up top later! Haha. Really the right answer is replacing the seal because ya never know when the silicone on the washer fails and up to that point maybe the seal gets a full tear. It is rare but if the seal tears it will dump oil on a long trip and ruin the engine. I have seen aftermarket manuals that tell you to add silicone to the washer and bolt head but cannot recall a GM or GEP manual saying to do so.

As much as I hate oil leaks- it is better to have it leak and be noticed so that you fix it before an annoyance leak becomes an engine killer imo.

Removing and reinstalling the balancer is more effort than replacing the seal.

Most 6.5’s require a waterpump replacement half way through their lives. My process was always replacing the front seal (Speedy sleeve as needed) timing chain, waterpump, thermostat all at the same time. For professional use trucks it made sense to do new serp belt and all coolant hoses at the same time. So I start with a coolant flush.
Click to expand...
I do not use silicone sealer on the washer or bolt head.
I use No.1 Permatex. The thick gooey stuff that comes in a squeeze tube.
Also, very important. If the timing cover is still bolted to the engine, coat the OD of the seal with that No1 Permatex and also the bore that the seal is going into.
I have had oil leaks between the seal and the bore a seal presses into because I thought that enamel paint was a sealant. It is not. It seals not one thing.
But before attempting to drive that new seal into its bore, pack the spring side of the seal with grease. Do not skip this step.
If You try driving that seal into the bore without packing that spring with grease, there is a mighty huge chance that spring will bounce from its position and dangle around the shaft. Then that seal will leak oil worser than ever.
Just mistakes I have made.
 
MrMarty51 said:
I do not use silicone sealer on the washer or bolt head.
I use No.1 Permatex. The thick gooey stuff that comes in a squeeze tube.
Also, very important. If the timing cover is still bolted to the engine, coat the OD of the seal with that No1 Permatex and also the bore that the seal is going into.
I have had oil leaks between the seal and the bore a seal presses into because I thought that enamel paint was a sealant. It is not. It seals not one thing.
But before attempting to drive that new seal into its bore, pack the spring side of the seal with grease. Do not skip this step.
If You try driving that seal into the bore without packing that spring with grease, there is a mighty huge chance that spring will bounce from its position and dangle around the shaft. Then that seal will leak oil worser than ever.
Just mistakes I have made.
Click to expand...
I always used blue locktite instead of the No1 permatex.

I'll try that this go round
 
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