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hard start summer and winter

i am going to test the relay, i am mecp certified i can wire one up three ways from sunday in my sleep... my guess is thats the problem relays go bat all the time. I worded things the way i did to try and understand how the LP circut works to help me trouble shoot the problem if it is not the relay, too cold out to stand around and twidle my thumbs on this one been in the teens last few days!!!! Thanks for the help so far i will Let you know what i come up with on that relay!!!!!!
 
after looking at that, its got to be the relay the OPS and the relay use the same sorce of 12volts on the 87 side of the relay this would mean if there was no 12volts the lift pump would not pump at all(blown fuse) The 30 side ties in to the out put of the OPS there for if the relay is clicking due to power from the pcm on 86 and ground on 85 I have a bad relay!!!!
 
NCadam said:
after looking at that, its got to be the relay the OPS and the relay use the same sorce of 12volts on the 87 side of the relay this would mean if there was no 12volts the lift pump would not pump at all(blown fuse) The 30 side ties in to the out put of the OPS there for if the relay is clicking due to power from the pcm on 86 and ground on 85 I have a bad relay!!!!
Click to expand...

Yes, now you know what I was talking about :)

Well I guess contact 87 is labeled B1 and 30 is A3. Contact 87a is B2 and is how that diagnostic plug off the fuse center powers the LP when the truck is off.
 
yeah just needed you to "dumb it up" for me to understand how it all worked

87a would be the diagnostic plug im going to check this and see if there is 12vots on that plug when the truck is runing, if so that will tell me the relay did not flip over to 87 like it should have if the relay was good. The diagnostic plug should not have a reading on it all when the truck is running if the relay is good
 
The other possibility was the wire from contact 30 to the power splice with the OPS was broke, but then it wouldnt work from the diagnostic port or if you just jump the contacts where the relay plugs in. And in what youve done so far I didnt gather youve ruled it out.
 
i did not jump the wires yet the pins on the relay are not in the same spot as the relays used in all aftermket equipment so I was not sure what 87 and 30 was and i just learned about the diagnostic plug reading stickys about 30min before you said anything about it LOL but if the wire on 30 is bad it wont be hard to chase down now that i know what color it is!!!!
 
well went to put a new relay in it today just to be on the safe side before i did that I tested the LP one more time with the drain and the motor off key on.... it worked, I got fuel out of the drain with out the motor running. so I let it sit and tried to start it like normal, went throuh the glow cycle and went to start it and it cranked forever with nothing, I gave it 1/4 throttle and if came to life. I drove dont the road for a bit rechecked the LP with the motor off key on and i got fuel so im starting to think its not my LP or LP circut
 
If it is indeed working properly, then need to test the Glow Plugs and Controller.

Make sure that around 11v is getting to the plugs. The controller is a big relay basically. You can pull some plugs out, ground the base of them and see if they work when you provide 12V. Or crank without starting, and pull some out to see if they are dry (becuase they got hot) or wet (because they didnt get hot).

Another possibliity is that your IP was not timed correctly whenever it was last replaced.
 
im going to double check all the glow plugs and controler when am at my buddys shop tomarow and have some heat around me to look at it!!! whats the best way to check/addjust the timing?

There was no change in the way the truck started today new relay is still in (9deg here and the truck has not moved in 3 days cause I was out plowin snow)

My WTS light will come on for 5-10 seconds the first time i turn the key, any time after that it might only come on 1-2 seconds is that right?? I have to crank it 3 or 4 times to get it to start and i dont like to cank it for real long periods of time cause it will heat up the com add brushes in the starter so i have to buy a new one sooner than planned...

I know on my powerstroke (work truck) The WTS light will come on 5-10 seconds every time i turn the key no matter what
 
That's normal for the WTS. Has to set with key off for awhile to get the original glow time. I have Car Code pretty cheap laptop scanner that will let you check/adjust timing.
 
ak diesel driver said:
That's normal for the WTS. Has to set with key off for awhile to get the original glow time. I have Car Code pretty cheap laptop scanner that will let you check/adjust timing.
Click to expand...

tell me more how much and where???

i have thought about doing the manual over ride for the glows to hep with starting but i have remote start (thats not working real well right now due to the hard start problem lol) but its kinda hard to puch that button from in the house lol
 
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