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Gotta tow heavy, suggestions?

Wow that's cheap mitch, Let us know the quality of the stuff. I paid more than that aftermarket.

It's the same radiator that Autozone sells for $250, the Spectra Premium CU1523. No, it's not an $800 all-aluminum piece with welded tanks, but the plastic tanks seem to be okay for 10+ years.

Summit sells a brass radiator for something like $400, but I did some reading and I think the aluminum one will cool better.
 
Don't forget the snacks.........What's a 6BT?

6 = 6-cylinder
B = B-Series
T = Turbo Charged.

The 6BT-5.9 is the 5.9L Cummins that Dodge used from 1989-2002. I think the new common ones are designated ISB, someone else can confirm that for me. There is a 4BT-(I think 3.9) that's a common 4-cyl in Frito Lay & delivery trucks. There is also a 6BT-8.3 which is in medium duty trucks.
 
6 = 6-cylinder
B = B-Series
T = Turbo Charged.

The 6BT-5.9 is the 5.9L Cummins that Dodge used from 1989-2002. I think the new common ones are designated ISB, someone else can confirm that for me. There is a 4BT-(I think 3.9) that's a common 4-cyl in Frito Lay & delivery trucks. There is also a 6BT-8.3 which is in medium duty trucks.

You are correct!
 
It's the same radiator that Autozone sells for $250, the Spectra Premium CU1523. No, it's not an $800 all-aluminum piece with welded tanks, but the plastic tanks seem to be okay for 10+ years.

Summit sells a brass radiator for something like $400, but I did some reading and I think the aluminum one will cool better.

Funny you should mention that. I was thinking just the opposite. I was gonna give the brass one a try. I saw that too.
 
Copper has 2x the heat transfer of al.,but 4 times the mass weight and a higher price per pound to use it. That is why rads are made from al., cuts down on weight and more importantly, price to the manufacturer. I bet the consumer doesn't see much of the cost savings.

Leo
 
There are trade offs with copper as well, copper has better absorption, but aluminum has better disipation and like you said lighter and cheaper. in different scenarios who know which one will be better?
 
That's why God invented "Watch Dogs". 110 lb German Shepherds are a natural deterrent.:thumbsup:

Leo
 
I gross 25,000#(truck and trailer) every day of the week with 4.63s in my 3500HD. It pulls not too bad. Nothing like the DMax but pretty good. Just get the boost built up before the hill, try to avoid the downshift and watch the temp gauges. A gooseneck trailer is also the way to go when pulling heavy.
 
So which is better? If you could choose between the 2.

For me Louis, I would pick Copper if prices were close and I was replacing one. My grain truck with a 427 and a GVW of 50,000 lbs uses copper without heating problems. And that motor throws a lot of heat.

That being said with proper maintenance Aluminum has worked thus far.

Leo
 
For me Louis, I would pick Copper if prices were close and I was replacing one. My grain truck with a 427 and a GVW of 50,000 lbs uses copper without heating problems. And that motor throws a lot of heat.

That being said with proper maintenance Aluminum has worked thus far.

Leo

Just thinking that with all the cooling issues (some worse than others) maybe the "Old Copper" rad might be that little extra push that keeps things in check....People must use them if the're still being offered.

Of course with a good clean system, as a base.

Any 6.5ers running the "Old Copper Cooler?"
 
Biggest problem with the aluminum is they didn't make them big enough. In the old copper you could get 4 and 5 rows. Only 2 in aluminum.
 
I remember a member at the "Place" offering a 4 row copper rad for sale as they were parting out the truck. This was a couple years back. It was custom built.

Leo
 
The 92's were copper from the factory. My 93 has an aluminum(not sure what it had factory). I'm pretty sure the copper four core radiator cools better.

Maybe thats why my 92 has lasted so well towing so much. With just the HO water pump and 195º stat, I have to really beat on it to get temps above 210ºF. 200k miles when head gaskets went and the heads were crack free, of course I always watched the temps closely and started backing off above 210º on hills, the HO pump took care of that.
 
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