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Got the burb, Got issues with it.

A

Acesneights1

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Ok. Got the 98 K2500 Burb. Charged the batts and it did start but was stalling and barely running. No codes. Plugged in a tested working PMD( I tested it on my dually) and it was prring like a kitten it seemed. But if I revv it it kinda falls off like a dead spot however it will hold roughly 2000 rpm and come back down. The tach is not working and the alt is not charging. it has a much bigger alt than stock. It has a 4ga cable going from the back of the alt directly to the batt. Now if the alt is not working hopefully due to the alt would that cause erratic throttle ? Otherwise the only things that come to mind are either the IP is shot anyway or the used PMD I have is no good. I onl;y plugged it into the dually and started it and revved it a few times and it seemed ok . I suposed when I bring the truck home tommorow I can swap the one from the dually but with tat alt and tach not working could that be causing engine problems ? The wiring ion this thing is a nightmare of spaghetti due to it being a fire truck and they butchered everything taking it out. Otherwise engine seems to be in good health. At one point idling I thought I heard some fuel knocking but it was cold and had not been run in awhile. Second time I started it and let it run it didn't do it. LP appears to be working. doesn't stall with t open.
 
Still could be the LP.

It may not stall but did you get fuel out of the T while it was running? Open the petcock on top of the filter while its running and make sure its coming out there too. The drain is at the bottom of the housing and the petcock at the top is more likely to be at vacuum, since the fuel inlet for the IP output is more in the middle.
 
bison said:
You may have to do the usual before condemning anything, check grounds and connections,check fuel system.
Click to expand...

Grounds, especially since they butchered the wiring...
Maybe it was an aprentice butcher, didn't know what he was doing. Hmmm

Another Kenny project. What fun! ;)

Pictures soon?
Not like you have anything else to do...

We patiently wait and hope for the best.
 
It will be home tomorrow and pics to follow. If the IP is dead I am seriously thinking about yanking the DB2 off that Jimmy i have and sticking it on and then buying a Compushift. By the time I buy a reman IP with a remote PMD setup I could pay for the Compushift. I wish I knew someone that had one to know how good they work.
 
She started right up this AM and I drove it around the fleet maint facilty a few times and waved at everyone. I love it. They junked the truck cause GM said the IP was shot. Drove her right on the trailer. Alt has a sticker on it from a local rebuilder. I know they guy. His stuff is crap so that is probably my no tach/charging issue. Question ? This thing has a much larger than stock alt which I don't feel like spending the money for. Can I put a standard one back on ? I'll post pics tnoight of what I have but the 2 wire plug looks different.
 
Not sure. it seemed fine today. Before I condemn anything I am going to pull the PMD outta my Dually and try it. The one I used to test on the burb came off the dead IP from the dually from PO so condition of it is unknown but it had a bad skip around mid throttle.
 
OK, I played with it more now that it's home. Seems to run good. Accelrates fine but when you revv it up then let off it like stays revving and shakes for a sec then drops right to idle. If you hold it at high rpms it's fine . Not sure I know that can be a sypmtom of the armature in the IP but I think I should try the PMD off my Dually first and see if it goes away.
 
kenny if you want your alt rebuilt i have that test stand i bought last swap meet. I"ll rebuilt it free of charge, save for parts. It's not hard to repalce parts if somethings cooked. I get parts at a good price from a local rebuilder that i really trust. All you'd need are brushes, springs, and a regulator parts wise if the windings on the armature and field windings are happy. That stuff's cheap compared to a new alt. last time i rebuilt a direct drive 6.2 starter parts from there cost me $25.

Let me know.
 
What shape are the batts in? Trying to run an engine off the bats alone is ok if you have a like a P-Pump. :hihi: After the glow plugs and the starter the computer wants power to run right. Running a computer off weak batts with questionable grounds can cause unexpected results out of the computer.

I would test the batts and then rebuild the alternator. Usual clean grounds while waiting for the alt. Then take the diags further with good bats and an alt...
 
OK PLayed with it tonight. This truck is a wiring NIGHTMARE...:suicide: . I don't know where to start but the alt is not factory. It looks like they intercepted the factory wiring to the original alt. That goes back inot the cab and then two wires come out to the new alt. I had no power to either wire going to the alt but I had power coming out of the factory wires but very dim. I checked it against my Dually with same result. I found another wire that was disconnected from the pass side batt with two fuses on it and reconnected that. Viola ...Truck is charging and seems to run fine. Skip in the throttle is gone...BUT Now the truck is charging like crazy. It's putting out xlose to 14v at idle and as you revv it up it hit 17 before I stopped.. I tried connecting the factory wires right to the alt and it did not charge and tach acted weird. Also this truck had a high idle setup so I wonder how they butchered that into the PCM ??? This truck may need an entire wiring harness. IDK.
 

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I think what I will do is take the alt and pigtail off my Dually and install it on the burb and see if that fixes it. I was hoping the terminals on this aftermarket alt were the same but apparently there must be something in the cab that is converting the tach signal cause when I tried to hook the factory wires to the HO alt the tach didn't kick in until about1800 RPM and still did not charge.
 
Acesneights1 said:
I think what I will do is take the alt and pigtail off my Dually and install it on the burb and see if that fixes it. I was hoping the terminals on this aftermarket alt were the same but apparently there must be something in the cab that is converting the tach signal cause when I tried to hook the factory wires to the HO alt the tach didn't kick in until about1800 RPM and still did not charge.
Click to expand...

My new 105 Alt pushes ~15 volt and I saw 16 while running for 30 minutes. Judging by mine your HO alt isn't that far off at 17.
 
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