MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Have You been blending in some no. 1 diesel ?
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GM 3.6 VVT
- Thread starter ak diesel driver
- Start date
smokymtn65
Well-Known Member
@ak diesel driver sounds like a day in my life! LOL sorry for you.
BIGR
Lucky To Be Here
Yelp, sounds like some of my luck, when it rains it pours as the ole saying goes.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
We've only had number one at the pumps since October
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Yup, what them others are saying. Seems that there is no end to it.
I did get most of the breakdowns done before the temps dipped below the freeze range though. Only one now left is the bright/dim switch on that toyodah car thing, and, to get that Triumph motorcicle finished. When attempting to slide the jugs over the pistons, 3 cylinder and all three jugs in one casting, I busted a second compression ring. Guess I will wait until I can get some help to keep it all stabilized before attempting that again. New rings comes for all three cylinders, found a set on fleabay, $60.00. Guess I now have some spares.
I did get most of the breakdowns done before the temps dipped below the freeze range though. Only one now left is the bright/dim switch on that toyodah car thing, and, to get that Triumph motorcicle finished. When attempting to slide the jugs over the pistons, 3 cylinder and all three jugs in one casting, I busted a second compression ring. Guess I will wait until I can get some help to keep it all stabilized before attempting that again. New rings comes for all three cylinders, found a set on fleabay, $60.00. Guess I now have some spares.
@ak diesel driver on a side note the jam arrived today and bisquit's will be in the oven later.. Thanks
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
No, thank you!
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
My homemade primer tool
Adapted a rubber air nozzle tip to it and filling thru the OPS opening. Slow but it appears that I have oil to the heads
Adapted a rubber air nozzle tip to it and filling thru the OPS opening. Slow but it appears that I have oil to the heads
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
If a person could find one of those stainless steel water/air charged fire extinguishers, flush it out good, install a weed sprayer type of a hose/control valve onto it, adapt the tube to a ferrel to pipe fitting then adapt that to the oil pressure sensor port on the engine.
Cill it with oil and prime it up.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Probably just a pump up weed sprayer unit could be adapted for an oil prime tool too.
Be sure to use a good breakin oil and do the correct run in for the cam.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
What's the run in procedure? Same as flat tappet?
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
They say a straight weight oil and non detergent is best for breakin procedure.
I found some straight 30 non detergent at NAPA and then grabbed a jug of ZDDP to add to it. I have read and heard where the ZDDP helps to prevent cam failure.
I alaways used to use straight 20 wt for break-in on car engines.
This 30 wt I acquired is for the Triumph motorcycle engine and the recommended viscosity for it is 20-50.
I found some straight 30 non detergent at NAPA and then grabbed a jug of ZDDP to add to it. I have read and heard where the ZDDP helps to prevent cam failure.
I alaways used to use straight 20 wt for break-in on car engines.
This 30 wt I acquired is for the Triumph motorcycle engine and the recommended viscosity for it is 20-50.
Below are very good videos from Total Seal and there test result's of a load of different break in oils... And I do the same thing and pull a load for the first 500 miles to work the motor hard.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
But then, not many of us has that fancy dyno musheeeen. So then what ?
The old timers I worked with taught Me, do not drive at a steady speed for 500 miles. Vary the load.
So, how I would brake them in. Drive them under light load for about 20 miles then back to the garage. Check fluids and be sure of no leeeeks.
Then back onto the road. Over here is good break in territory. Hills, lots of hills, some quite steep and some not so steep.
This allows for a very nice variance in full to no and even negative load.
Heading uphill, full on power, up to about 60 MPH, back off to about 40 then back into it again, not running much over about 60, for the first 30 or 40 miles. Then the speed increase to about 75 for about 40 miles, then up to about 85 to 90 and beteween each power surge, back down to about 60 to 70 when the higher speeds is obtained. Hitting into the throttle, everything but passing gear.
When decelerating after a power surge, full let out of the throttle, and when getting a good down hill run is even nicer as the vacuum really builds.
The old timers told Me that this acceleration forces the rings to the cylinder walls and the deceleration builds the vacuum and that helps the rings to gain flexibility.
How true all that is I have no idea. I will say though, it is a lot of fun and I never had an engine suck oil past the rings.
The old timers I worked with taught Me, do not drive at a steady speed for 500 miles. Vary the load.
So, how I would brake them in. Drive them under light load for about 20 miles then back to the garage. Check fluids and be sure of no leeeeks.
Then back onto the road. Over here is good break in territory. Hills, lots of hills, some quite steep and some not so steep.
This allows for a very nice variance in full to no and even negative load.
Heading uphill, full on power, up to about 60 MPH, back off to about 40 then back into it again, not running much over about 60, for the first 30 or 40 miles. Then the speed increase to about 75 for about 40 miles, then up to about 85 to 90 and beteween each power surge, back down to about 60 to 70 when the higher speeds is obtained. Hitting into the throttle, everything but passing gear.
When decelerating after a power surge, full let out of the throttle, and when getting a good down hill run is even nicer as the vacuum really builds.
The old timers told Me that this acceleration forces the rings to the cylinder walls and the deceleration builds the vacuum and that helps the rings to gain flexibility.
How true all that is I have no idea. I will say though, it is a lot of fun and I never had an engine suck oil past the rings.
If you watched all the videos, one was how to do it without a dyno, yes kinda like "the old timers", a diesel, any diesel needs to be under power as much as possible, not necessarily max power but heavy loaded pulls over and over..
Most dynos have a "break in program " that can load and unload the torque for as long a run as the dyno can handle, on some that could be over a hour of simulated hard hilly pulls on and off the power..
So yea, the more you load the motor with the correct lube and heat the better everything will seat...
Most dynos have a "break in program " that can load and unload the torque for as long a run as the dyno can handle, on some that could be over a hour of simulated hard hilly pulls on and off the power..
So yea, the more you load the motor with the correct lube and heat the better everything will seat...
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Pretty much got everything together on this engine. Waiting for some AC orings to come in tomorrow before I start putting it back in.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
@ak diesel driver all this work, this vehicle is gonna last a really long time! you gonna have to add it to your sig collection 
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
It is my daughter's LoL