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Glow Plugs not heating up?

still attached to the IP. Haven't had time to relocate it, but I do have the harness. Do I have to remove the IP to detach the PMD?
 
well, I wouldn't worry about getting it off of the IP, but thats most likely your problem. It can be removed with a long allen wrench and a lot of patience. Its a lot of hassle with injector lines and such to remove the intake to get to it better. I would purchase a new PMD from Pendacola Diesel, mount that on your heatsink and extension into the bumper. Once the PMD has been on the IP for a long time it is suspect and will always be. Relocating the one on the IP can probably get you a good year out of it. But should also tighten the transistor nuts and use artic silver themal grease.
 
since my pmd is still working (since my truck hasn't died yet), should I leave it on the IP or should I put it somewhere in the truck as a "just in case" part....cause I'm thinking of starting a toolbox of just spare parts - fuses, fuel filter, pmd...etc.
 
If you can get your hand down there to plug it in, in an emergency, then leave it on. I did take mine off and keep it in the cab just in case on aother heatsink, but I was replacing the IP at the time.
 
i bought my pmd extension and heat sink from pmdcable...is the resistor in the cable, or is it in between the cable and pmd? Do I still need to grab it from my old pmd?
 
Could the truck stall due to the OPS...cause I checked my oil this morning and I was ~2 qts low:mad2::mad2: and I went ahead and changed my fuel filter and noticed that I don't have the tiny little filter that commonly gets stuck in the fuel filter...

But I went ahead and purchased a PMD from Pensacola, and I had previously purchased/received an extension from PMDcable...hopefully the 2 work together?
 
A lot of people just buy a new resistor with their PMD. Because you cant change them on the fly easily if you have to.

The OPS in your truck should not cause it to die. In OBD2, will code a DTC if the LP isnt getting power. The PCM will power the LP through the LP relay at all times unless it fails.
 
Ok - I just ordered the resistor too. Wish I had known about that originally - but its only Tuesday morning...so maybe I can still expect both before Saturday.
 
treegump said:
The truck stalled for the first time this morning, but had no issues after I switched the high idle on. I'm going to try and change injectors this weekend, and I'm planning on changing the fuel filter sometime this week - has 8k on it...maybe? ...
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The PMD is suspect for stalling. However, my 1993 is mechanical and still stalled when returning to idle. An adjustment of the idle speed and replacing/rebuilding the injectors cured this. My injectors had 124K of towing and camper use before I owned it.

Simply 1 or 2 randomly not popping at idle speed can stall the engine. I could reliably stall the engine by revving it up and releasing the throttle. At least the injectors are cheap over the new diesels.
 
Got the injectors changed finally!! 7:30pm friday night till 5:30am Saturday morning, with a wood stove and kerosene heater (so I could stay in blue jeans and t-shirt most of the night). Old injectors and some of the new injectors had some resistance coming out/going in....but I do believe its all good. And I relocated the PMD to behind the front license plate holder. Now - when its 30* or warmer or if the engine is warm, then factory glow plug timing and it starts right up...no more 3-4 turn overs before starting. And when it was 20 degrees, I did the glow plug over ride for 10 seconds and it fired right up. Thanks for all your help!! (Oh and I put anti-seize on the threads going into the block for the next time).
 
Attaboy, Forrest!! Good for you!

I'm glad you got everything running... Thanks to the guys here for the good suggestions and advice! It's all about learning new things and being able to fix our own stuff - with a little help from our friends!

This place rocks!
 
JiFaire said:
Attaboy, Forrest!! Good for you!

I'm glad you got everything running... Thanks to the guys here for the good suggestions and advice! It's all about learning new things and being able to fix our own stuff - with a little help from our friends!

This place rocks!
Click to expand...

Yea it does!! I need to relocate my pyro sensor (its in my down pipe now...and I have no welder, so I need to be careful about my spot to drill and tap), and then do the feed the beast. I don't have money to buy a new manager - so drilling into the only part I've got, is a little frightening to say the least.
 
Sorry for being late to the party, but is your pyro sensor in your downpipe (post-turbo) or in the driver's-side crossover (pre-turbo)? Lots of people put their sensors in the exhausts rather than the manifold, and they work just fine. The 'danger' lines are just at different temps, is all.
 
JiFaire said:
Sorry for being late to the party, but is your pyro sensor in your downpipe (post-turbo) or in the driver's-side crossover (pre-turbo)? Lots of people put their sensors in the exhausts rather than the manifold, and they work just fine. The 'danger' lines are just at different temps, is all.
Click to expand...

post - between the turbo and the cat. Highest I see it in normal driving - no load - is 200*. I've seen it as high as 400* and high idle (1000rpm) its at 90* . I know that ain't right.
 
Glad you got it worked out. Listening to your video - that starter sounds like it's spinning too slow....either bad batteries, starter or connections. Have you replaced the crossover cable with something bigger yet? When I swapped mine with a NAPA ga. no. 0 wire size it made a big difference - I think the factory crossover cable is 4 or 6 ga.

I don't know if anyone has answered your question regarding hearing the GP relay - yes I can easily hear mine - loud click when it comes on and off.....but I also have the rubber molding removed between the back of the hood and the cowling(for better cooling after shutdown).
 
Odlaw said:
Glad you got it worked out. Listening to your video - that starter sounds like it's spinning too slow....either bad batteries, starter or connections. Have you replaced the crossover cable with something bigger yet? When I swapped mine with a NAPA ga. no. 0 wire size it made a big difference - I think the factory crossover cable is 4 or 6 ga.

I don't know if anyone has answered your question regarding hearing the GP relay - yes I can easily hear mine - loud click when it comes on and off.....but I also have the rubber molding removed between the back of the hood and the cowling(for better cooling after shutdown).
Click to expand...

what do you mean the crossover cable? are you talking from one battery to the other? No. 0 stranded wire? Does it make that big a difference? Also - I had both batteries tested out of the truck and auto zone said they were fine. I'll try and get a video posted of my truck starting now, but I honestly think that it was the injectors going bad.

Also - good to know about the GP. I can hear them clicking. It just seemed like I heard a light whirring noise too that was kind of intermittent.
 
Bigger battery cables will make a world of difference. I had a set of 2-0 cables made for the positive. I had duel post batteries. I connected the top positives together and had a seperate 2-0 cable running to the starter. My factory cables must have really been corroded inside the insulation. It spins at twice the speed it did before.
 
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