Glow plug tricks

[Missy Good Wench]

The little tool is a snap to use.
The split nut is hinged and clamps around the plug and the little "C" device is a shim to allow the add on nut to be used to get the plug far enough out of the hole to be extracted.

As mentioned the RH side is a nasty one but no matter it beats having to remove the head to get the plugs out.

Another note ********************* NOTE**********

Always use neverseaze on the manifold bolt threads when installing them in the head.

These are a rolled thread with a compressed "trilobe" in the root of the thread to cause interference locking.

This keeps the bolts tight but can also make them a bitch to remove when time and rust have worked their dirty deeds.

Never seaze will make removal a much easier task.

Best

MGW

 

[Acesneights1]

Not to beat that dead horse again but ether can cause them to swell. That is how I learned to get them out after I swelled a few in my old 83. I've read the WAPs swell on their own .

 

[iamdave0887]

Not to beat that dead horse again but ether can cause them to swell. That is how I learned to get them out after I swelled a few in my old 83. I've read the WAPs swell on their own .

I have a feeling that's how that 11G in my blazer swelled. 11G's aren't supposed to swell, but yet with my luck i find one that's swollen and stuck. Ether was the first thing that came to mind. Can't see why as it seems to start fine in the cool weather. this winter will tell for sure.

 

[bison]

Not to beat that dead horse again but ether can cause them to swell. That is how I learned to get them out after I swelled a few in my old 83. I've read the WAPs swell on their own .

Dont start that again:rolleyes5:
ps,Your new avatar is more eye pleasing than the old one.

 

[TurboTahoe]

It's been a couple of years, but I seem to recall at the other 'place', one of the members suggested that after you unscrew the GP, if it is swelled, then place a small set of vice grips on the plug, and then START the engine, allow to idle, and the power stroke from the idling engine will pound the glow plug out. Sounds dangerous, but workable. Proceed at your own risk.

-Rob

 

[Matt Bachand]

It's been a couple of years, but I seem to recall at the other 'place', one of the members suggested that after you unscrew the GP, if it is swelled, then place a small set of vice grips on the plug, and then START the engine, allow to idle, and the power stroke from the idling engine will pound the glow plug out. Sounds dangerous, but workable. Proceed at your own risk.

-Rob

Safety glasses for that one. Once its out the danger would stop, as there would be no compression to combust. The weight of the vise grips would probably defer it from being a bullet anyhow.

Just make sure you don't break it apart with the visegrips then fire it up resulting in crunching of pieces in the chamber.

 

[treegump]

I have done two (2) plugs on the Turbo side of a 6.5

Jack up the rig
Remove RH tire/wheel
Remove rubber inner splash flap
Remove turbo and manifold

MGW

Do we need anything to reattach the inner splash flap - any new push plugs - or is it screwed/bolted on?

When removing the turbo and manifold - is there anything that we need to be mindful of? Is it best to remove separately? When reinstalling - are there gaskets or anything that should be replaced, and where can we get those? (Model #'s or technical names - so when I ask for it I don't sound like a complete idiot).

I changed the 4 on the driver's side and the 1st at the front of the engine on the passenger side last night but gave up at 11:30ishpm after jacking the truck 2 ft off the ground and also climbing into the engine compartment and still not able to figure out how to reach the other 3.

 

[iamdave0887]

Do we need anything to reattach the inner splash flap - any new push plugs - or is it screwed/bolted on?

When removing the turbo and manifold - is there anything that we need to be mindful of? Is it best to remove separately? When reinstalling - are there gaskets or anything that should be replaced, and where can we get those? (Model #'s or technical names - so when I ask for it I don't sound like a complete idiot).

I changed the 4 on the driver's side and the 1st at the front of the engine on the passenger side last night but gave up at 11:30ishpm after jacking the truck 2 ft off the ground and also climbing into the engine compartment and still not able to figure out how to reach the other 3.

I was able to get the passenger side glows out with just the splash shield off. I didn't pull the inner fender. i did have the turbo off but that was because i was changing out the injectors. a deep 10MM socket and a few extensions and i had no issues removing the glow plugs and i'm not flexible or thin in the least bit.

- Dave

 

[treegump]

I was able to get the passenger side glows out with just the splash shield off. I didn't pull the inner fender. i did have the turbo off but that was because i was changing out the injectors. a deep 10MM socket and a few extensions and i had no issues removing the glow plugs and i'm not flexible or thin in the least bit.

- Dave

Ok - so when you put the turbo back on, were there any gaskets or anything that you replaced? Is there a part # or something that I can take to the store to reference it?

 

[iamdave0887]

Ok - so when you put the turbo back on, were there any gaskets or anything that you replaced? Is there a part # or something that I can take to the store to reference it?

There was a MLS gasket for the turbo flange and a gasket for the oil return. I can't remember any numbers on the gaskets. let me do some digging and i'll get back to you.

 

[treegump]

There was a MLS gasket for the turbo flange and a gasket for the oil return. I can't remember any numbers on the gaskets. let me do some digging and i'll get back to you.

thank you! I sure appreciate it! I have some oil on the engine - specifically on top of the intake manifold and around the turbo. I've replaced the CDR & cleaned the K&N air filter (will be replacing it with a BHAF, I think), but I'd hate to remove/and reinstall the turbo and oil return and have more oil leaking out, haha. (I haven't replaced my oil cooler lines yet so I'm hoping the oil may be getting pulled up or something because I'm not losing a ton of oil).

Sorry about all that info - just wanted to explain my insistence(?) on the gaskets, haha.

 

[Matt Bachand]

thank you! I sure appreciate it! I have some oil on the engine - specifically on top of the intake manifold and around the turbo. I've replaced the CDR & cleaned the K&N air filter (will be replacing it with a BHAF, I think), but I'd hate to remove/and reinstall the turbo and oil return and have more oil leaking out, haha. (I haven't replaced my oil cooler lines yet so I'm hoping the oil may be getting pulled up or something because I'm not losing a ton of oil).

Sorry about all that info - just wanted to explain my insistence(?) on the gaskets, haha.

IS your boost gauge tap leaking and spewing the K&N oil around?

 

[treegump]

IS your boost gauge tap leaking and spewing the K&N oil around?

I don't think so - the previous owner drilled and tapped a hole in the intake tube smack dab between the turbo and the top of the block. But - to be safe, I'll put some plumber's tape...or hm...what could stand up to the heat? - to seal the hole that is.

I think the oil on the top of the block was due to a missing bolt in the center of the top (if you look at the diagrams for an aftermarket turbo gauge bolt it shows you 2 different places to put it - well one of those bolts was missing - but I found a bolt that fits in there nice). And I've replaced the cdr - but have not cleaned the area - so I have yet to find out if I've fixed the problem or not.

When/If I remove the turbo to get to the glow plugs, I was planning on removing the intake and cleaning the intake while it was off. But I still need to know what to use when putting it back. I suppose the surface gets too hot to use normal gasket maker, huh?

 

[Matt Bachand]

I had a non perfect drill/tap that weeped a little on top of my upper intake. I used Plumbing PASTE, which I will never use teflon tape again still using this stuff. Sealed the deal like a champ.

I use it for every thread seal I use to use the tape with. Paste is the way to go. I'm sure some know-it-all will chime in and tell us both when to use each.

I bought some as recommended by Racor for the pre-filter I installed, so peices of tape can't flow up the fuel stream...

 

[treegump]

I had a non perfect drill/tap that weeped a little on top of my upper intake. I used Plumbing PASTE, which I will never use teflon tape again still using this stuff. Sealed the deal like a champ.

I use it for every thread seal I use to use the tape with. Paste is the way to go. I'm sure some know-it-all will chime in and tell us both when to use each.

I bought some as recommended by Racor for the pre-filter I installed, so peices of tape can't flow up the fuel stream...

I'll look for that the next time i'm out. Also, I think my boost gauge vac line is getting squished - and there is oil in the line as well - which probably doesn't help with telling me how much boost I have.

 

[HighSierra86]

I'll look for that the next time i'm out. Also, I think my boost gauge vac line is getting squished - and there is oil in the line as well - which probably doesn't help with telling me how much boost I have.

check to make sure the line isnt crushed at the fitting. Both at the guage side and the manifold. The compression fittings that small, especially in brass, do not have to be very tight. If over tight, it can cause the line to pinch giving you an incorrect reading

 

[treegump]

check to make sure the line isnt crushed at the fitting. Both at the guage side and the manifold. The compression fittings that small, especially in brass, do not have to be very tight. If over tight, it can cause the line to pinch giving you an incorrect reading

will do. I think I do have a crushed line unfortunately. I couldn't reach where I wanted to reach with the hard plastic (which was also pinched when I removed it) so I switched to a 3/16ths line and new fittings - but its a more squishy line. If I could find some other hard line item, I'd go with that - or another fitting - besides the compression fittings - but I can't find anything that small.

 

[packratt]

Napa should have the line you need. Just ask for manual oil pressure gauge line kit. Will come with line and 2 compression to 1/8NPT fittings.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Do we need anything to reattach the inner splash flap - any new push plugs - or is it screwed/bolted on?

When removing the turbo and manifold - is there anything that we need to be mindful of? Is it best to remove separately? When reinstalling - are there gaskets or anything that should be replaced, and where can we get those? (Model #'s or technical names - so when I ask for it I don't sound like a complete idiot).

I changed the 4 on the driver's side and the 1st at the front of the engine on the passenger side last night but gave up at 11:30ishpm after jacking the truck 2 ft off the ground and also climbing into the engine compartment and still not able to figure out how to reach the other 3.

Is it because I don't have A/C that I have a perfect view to #8 GP/Injector via wheel well w/fender liner removed?

Also, all my black covers were brittle and broke apart with just touching them with fingers. Recommended to replace these with glowplugs? or are the metal contacts/contacts good enough?

The black connectors are more than the glowplugs!! Anyone have a cheap source for these?

Me thinks I'm gonna change these out before winter strikes. They are in horrible shape. Looked 100x worse than the pictures dave showed.

What is the best socket to use, a 10mm 5pt Deep?

Also on GP trick thread, would engine block being cold be better than engine block being up to operating temp? I would think so, but I'll ask.