Glove box codes - Which one for gear ratio??

[WilliamBos]

Hi All,

Which glove box code ( I am sure there is a more technical name for it... ) denotes the gear ratio? What code is what gear ratio?? (example 123 = 373, 456 = 342)

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

The popular ones are GU6=3.42 GT4=3.73 and GT5=4.10. There is a list out there somewhere for them, and they are called RPO codes.

 

[DieselCash]

Here is a link to look them up with;

http://www.angelfire.com/ny2/96transam/rpocodes.html

I did use this one but can not get it to open;

http://www.c2e.info/rpocodes/

Hope this helps!

 

[Big T]

Where are these RPO codes located? Are they in the glove box? If so, where in the glove box?

 

[SmithvilleD]

It's a label/sticker on the bottom of the glovebox when you open it. Says "Service Parts Identification" across the top.

Search "Chevy trucks RPO codes" & look at the images. Expect you'll recognize the pictures - one of those things you've seen before but don't really notice until you're looking for it.

 

[Big T]

It's a label/sticker on the bottom of the glovebox when you open it. Says "Service Parts Identification" across the top.

Search "Chevy trucks RPO codes" & look at the images. Expect you'll recognize the pictures - one of those things you've seen before but don't really notice until you're looking for it.

I was looking for the RPO codes this AM. Must have been covered by the Owners Manual and other stuff in there.

 

[JayTheCPA]

If the sticker is gone, it is possible that the glove box was replaced. To get the original build, (for a fee) CompNine<dot> probably has it in their database. Just pay a few $ and provide the VIN.

 

[Big T]

If the sticker is gone, it is possible that the glove box was replaced. To get the original build, (for a fee) CompNine<dot> probably has it in their database. Just pay a few $ and provide the VIN.

I know that I must have done this before as I have the rear gear ratio listed in my signature line. Just looking to confirm and forgot where they are located. Looking at a GMT-800 axle with disc brakes for possible conversion project. It's actually cheaper to buy the whole axle assembly from a pick and pull than to buy a kit to covert existing axle. Plus the GMT-800 trucks had dual piston calipers versus the single piston calipers in the kits.

 

[Will L.]

And it takes longer to pull the fire than to change the pads.

 

[Big T]

And it takes longer to pull the fire than to change the pads.

Pull the fire?????? Did you mean tire????

 

[Will L.]

Ha! Ya.
Wait- my truck can pull anything- even fire!

Sorry, I know where you live fire is a four letter word.

Seriously though, once tire is off I just pry over the worn pads with a small pry bar, remove the lower bolt (torx iirc) swing up the caliper. Pads pop in n out. Drop caliper and reinstall 1 bolt. They couldn't make it easier if they tried.

 

[Big T]

Ha! Ya.
Wait- my truck can pull anything- even fire!

Sorry, I know where you live fire is a four letter word.

Seriously though, once tire is off I just pry over the worn pads with a small pry bar, remove the lower bolt (torx iirc) swing up the caliper. Pads pop in n out. Drop caliper and reinstall 1 bolt. They couldn't make it easier if they tried.

You're talking about the GMT-800 set-up?

I know SmithvilleD is looking at installing a GMT-800 axle into a GMT-400. The axle apparently has a slightly wider track and the mounts for the leaf springs and the snubbers need to be moved, but you get those beautiful dual piston calipers. When I go through my current drum brakes, the springs and crap are a nightmare. There's none of that with the disc brakes.

Anyhow, I located a 2001 C2500 Suburban in a pick and pull. Hoping the spindles and rear axle are still on it. They have a 40% off sale starting on the 12th. That would price the axle assembly at $143 including a $20 core charge. Depending on the gear ratio, My son with the 4.10 rear, or myself with the 3.73 rear will get it. Those appear to be the only gear ratios offered on that C2500.

 

[Will L.]

Yes just did rear pads on my 01 burb 2500- the one I was driving when we met at Big Bear.

It really took longer to impact on and off the 8 lugs than it did the pads.

 

[SmithvilleD]

Here's a pic of a rear caliper. Besides cleaning, blasting, & powder coating stuff to look nice, I swapped in hex bolts for the OEM torx bolts that can be plenty difficult if lots of corrosion - if fastener is corroded, you can still get a good grip on hex bolt with vice-grips, etc . The brake hose routing is nice in that it allows the caliper to swing up without excess twisting/kinking. On the edge, you can see the aftermarket spring perch welded on at the GMT400 spring pack's width.

 

[Big T]

Here's a pic of a rear caliper. Besides cleaning, blasting, & powder coating stuff to look nice, I swapped in hex bolts for the OEM torx bolts that can be plenty difficult if lots of corrosion - if fastener is corroded, you can still get a good grip on hex bolt with vice-grips, etcView attachment 47112 . The brake hose routing is nice in that it allows the caliper to swing up without excess twisting/kinking. On the edge, you can see the aftermarket spring perch welded on at the GMT400 spring pack's width.

Geez all your stuff looks so nice.

Are you talking about the two bolts holding the caliper on or the 4 smaller bolts. I found 3 of the 4 bolts holding the caliper brackets on, so I have to find or order another.

That braided stainless brake hose looks like what I have on my GMT-400, so I'm hopeful they will work.

 

[SmithvilleD]

The 2 bolts that hold the caliper to caliper bracket. You can pull the lower bolt & pivot the caliper out away to swap pads.

The rear brake lines after the ends of the hose in the picture convert to a metal lines going to near center of diff, then T's into one & converts to hose up to chassis, to allow for rear end suspension up/down.

 

[Big T]

I checked my RPO codes in the glove box and I'm GT4, or 3.73.