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Getting alot of blowback from oil

My bad - overlooked the question - Diesel oil is high-compression extreme-duty rated for turbocharger service, meaning it is rated for turbocharged EGT's - oil will burn, so it will also evaporate at elevated temperatures (oily fumes, which ignite even easier) - thin oil evaporates at lower temps than thick oil - run thin oil thru the turbocharger cartridge at ~avg650*F and you'll get a lot of oily fumes as it trickles back into the sump - run non-turbo-rated oil thru there and it's Katie, bar the door - thicker oil also seals the piston ring\cylinder wall interface better than thin oil (is why they foolishly suggest pouring motor oil into the cylinder when doing compression-checks, eh) - using thin oil in winter is good because of the overall lower temps than in heat of summer - thus the spec'ed 15W-40 rating of summer oil

And B4 you nay-sayers jump in here with the negatory vibes, think of how much more quickly really-thin Diesel oil...er....fuel....ignites than 40w motor oil, eh - evaporation = volatility...............


FYI (again): you usually will get blue smoke from an oil leak when ingested into the intake system or into the upper cylinder thru worn rings, because normal combustion temps are not hi enuff to ignite the thicker motor oil - get the turbo spooled up and rpms up and EGT's up and it bodes a 'nuther tale, indeed

White (and blue) vapors are resulted when fuel-oil has not reached combustion temps, is exhausted with incomplete ignition - back smoke is resulted from oil that is above combustion temps, has ignited, but oxygen content has been depleted B4 complete burn, is exhausted with incomplete combustion

Try it....you'll like it........................
 
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What commpression settings are stock? and can you alter them to make the rings last longer?

I tested the coolant and I think it has more water than antifreeze I think that is what the overheating is from.

But I also noticed alot of white smoke on startup maybe bad injectors???

although I am not driving it to much I don't see any substantial oil leaks other than on the cdr hoses.

If I drain the coolant out of my radiator and wash it out with a hose can I just fill it up with coolant on one of the upper hoses or does it have to be pumped in??? I put in some stop leack a while ago and I need all of it out of there.
 
If you used stop leak, you need to flush it out.

If you do decide to flush it use a flush kit, Preston makes an OK one.

When I flush out my radiator I always use distilled water instead of tap water. It does not cost too much and helps keep crap out of the radiator that is in the tap water.

Why did you use stop leak?

Did you fix the leak or rely on stop leak?
 
JohnnyT said:
I tested the coolant and I think it has more water than antifreeze I think that is what the overheating is from.
Click to expand...

Negative on that theory.

Glycol based antifreeze has poor heat transfer properties....therefore, less antifreeze would make for better cooling because water has excellent heat transfer properties.

Are you overheating by the gauge or have you checked the actual temps? These particular GM gauges are crappy at best. Get an infrared thermometer from Harbor Freight. I installed a new sending unit and my gauge now reads a little more accurate......but it still shows around 170 when it's actually running at around 190 - measured on the bolt next to the sending unit.


Good luck
Smitty
 
Odlaw said:
Negative on that theory.

Glycol based antifreeze has poor heat transfer properties....therefore, less antifreeze would make for better cooling because water has excellent heat transfer properties.

Are you overheating by the gauge or have you checked the actual temps? These particular GM gauges are crappy at best. Get an infrared thermometer from Harbor Freight. I installed a new sending unit and my gauge now reads a little more accurate......but it still shows around 170 when it's actually running at around 190 - measured on the bolt next to the sending unit.


Good luck
Smitty
Click to expand...

The antifreeze also helps keep the boiling point under control though doesn't it? Pure water would boil and lose its ability to cool?
 
I did the dipstick test again this time using a different hose that fit better. The water was sucked up about 2 inches at 2000 rpm's and no bubbles at all... although does this test require the engine to be warmed up? the engine doesn't have significant blowby until it gets hot.
 
Wow! been a while since I checked this post

I finally got around to checking codes and I am getting DTC 36 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Long)

at least Ithink I am it flashes 3 times then a pause then flashes 6 more times this goes on and on...

I reset and drove before this test. So my question is... could this be related to overheating or is that more than likely a different issue altogeter.

Thank you for all the help. Also if I need to get new injectors what kind do you all recommend? They are stock injectors with200k on them by the way.
 
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