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Fuel system problem?

Ya I got it fast but had to pay dealership prices, $240 plus the angle aluminum bar and some nuts and bolts, probably $255 total. I paid the extra from the dealer because I hopeing that was it and use the truck for work on Monday. Yes it did come with the drain stem so I just hooked up my old hose with the inline on/off valve.

So would the clear tubing (I think I've heard it referred to as sight glass) be the next step to solve the problem?
 
Also throw in a quart of TCW3 2 cycle oil in the fuel, or 2 quarts of Non-detergent SAE30 for the lubrication. Thats like a double dose of what you would normally need to maintain the lubrication. Inspecting lines from tank to pump for signs of bad rust, or weeping when the truck isnt running. And the sightglassing is a good idea.
 
So, I was taking the intake off to do the sight glass test and voila there's a broken injector line, broken right behind the nut that screws it to the injector pump port. I'm curios to know why this keeps happening. I had the same thing happen a few months ago but the line broke right behind where the nut screws into an injector.

I got the 2 cycle oil, should the quart be added to a full tank of gas? And should I add a quart or half a quart everytime I fill up?

About the wiring for the filter base, anybody know anything about it? Or should I be able to fin out with a google search?
 
It is the same one that broke on me before that's broke now. I guess maybe I had that injector line and the one that sits next to overlapped (they kind of go over and under each other at a certain point) wrong, so having extra pressure on it and the vibrations from the motor must be breaking it in the weakest spot, right behind where it's attached.

So does anyone have an extra set of injector lines laying around that they want to sell or just one? It's the driver side 3rd one back from the front.
 
I can tell you what the new filter wires are, but have not been able to find what the 4 wires do on yours. If someone has AlldataDIY online for an older 6.2 truck it would tell them.

A: Fused Battery Power (pink/black)
B: Indicator Light in instrument panel (yellow/black)
C: Engine Ground (black)


For normal lubrication a 200:1 ratio is good enough for the 2 cycle oil, so thats about a half quart to 24 gallons. More than that wont cause a problem, so I suggest a whole quart to start with. For SAE30 oil I would suggest a 100:1 ratio.

Injector lines breaking sound like too much vibration, but the whole engine, injectors and lines should be vibrating together. Could need new motor mounts if it vibrates and jerks a lot when going into gear.
 
RNation said:
On another note, the heater plug fits for the new fuel filter but the "water in fuel" plug doesn't (I think thats what the other plug is for). My old one has 4 wires, the new has 3. So if anyone has a wiring diagram for the two filter bases that would help out, or maybe point me in a direction.
Click to expand...

Well, the 1990 R/V (Suburban) FSM shows all the wiring for the Stanadyne Model 80 rectangular type filter base, but the WIF connector uses three wires only. Verified same on the two '85 units I have at hand. Pink/Black is 12v+, Black is GND, and yellow is the indicator lead that goes to the dash light through the firewall bulkhead connector. Maybe the older (pre- '85? or first-edition round-style?) used an additional wire ?

If your original FFM looked like that first eBay ad you posted (which was the Model 80, and a damn good price for an NOS unit), the wiring seems like it should be the same as above. What color is the fourth wire in your truck?
 
The colors are black, yellow, red, and purple.

102_0578.jpg

And I feel a little dumb now because I took those clips off, thinking they weren't important. So I guess that's another self inflicted wound.
 
Cool, thanks. Anyone have any injector lines for sale or can I make one with something like brake line and rubber hose?
 
accurate diesel sells inj lines. Email Tim, he may have single ones. They break if not properly secured or if they were bent and bent back. They should never be bent.
 
I was talking to bobbiemartin about the injector lines. And it's for the DB2 pump but their off of a 6.5 and mines a 6.2. Will that work? I'm not sure if the lines will be bent the same to fit around the intake.
 
Good question. The intake channels are located in the same place, the only difference is the angle to the heads and maybe head height. They used the same injector lines when they were both made, like 90-93, but I dont know about earlier 6.2s.

You might ask Time at accurate diesel like Aces suggested, or Jamie at dieseldepot would probably know and sell you some.
 
I talked to Tim at accurate diesel and he said the lines are different, I guess there's a different angle when going to the heads. But he was able to find me one and it's on it's way.

Any luck with the wiring?
 
For the wiring I have access to any schematic with the base library's database access, but my coworker forgot the password. I'll stop by the library tomorrow to see about getting access again and looking it up for a 1984.
 
I don't want you to go out of your way for it. Is there a way I could plug the filter onto the housing, then connect the wires to a battery, check the two unknown wires to see if their hot or not, then fill the filter with water and test the two unknown wires again. If one of the wires is hot with water in the filter and not when the filters empty, that would be the water in fuel sensor, and the last wire would be capped off, I think...haha.
Do you think that might work?
 
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