Fuel Sump

[Twisted Steel Performance]

No aftermarket products are going to say "you MUST degree a cam", "you must get new pushrods", the sellers don't care just buy it...

It is up to the builder/installer to ensure everything is right, only half assed people expect aftermarket stuff to be bolt on and be good... several items come to mind, rockers that work best with correct size pushrods, cam gears, valve to piston clearance, etc... I have been contacted by too many people that say "the seller didn't say anything" , well that is the buyers problem for not doing research or at the least asking someone that has been building these for 30yrs, instead they ask kids on FB that want folks to think they know it all.

To check or degree a cam you MUST have specs or a cam card for said cam, if not why waste the time, you still won't know anything. I have posted the specs before but I'll do it again, maybe it can get moved to the fact section..

Our cams can be moved + or - 4* depending on application and desired performance, that needs research if you don't know how a cam reacts to changes. 99% of the time line up dots and hope for the best, it's that 1% that will bite you...


ALL SPECS ARE MEASURED @ .050lift

 

[93detroit]

Thanks Chris!
Hopefully I don't have to make an offset key.

 

[Will L.]

Thanks Chris!
Hopefully I don't have to make an offset key.

You don’t make offset keys. You buy them.
Cutting over sized key stock heats the metal and now has to be re tempered. Otherwise it will shear off later.

If you do make one, you better understand how to temper EXACTLY RIGHT because hard edges of metal will over temper easy, but hen the corners break off easy.

 

[93detroit]

I'm all "ears" if you have a supplier. Around here, tractor pullers just make their own.

 

[Will L.]

Places like summit, jegs, there are shops that produce parts for high performance.

Not saying tractor pull guys can’t make one. But there is a difference in something to last a short time hard use and something you want to not wear over the next 300,000 miles.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Most of the keys I've been around aren't hardened.

 

[93detroit]

Anyone know where I can drill into the firewall to mount my fuel pressure regulator? The two visible screws have plastic behind them (dash mount?). Thinking about going into the rib for the top two screws.

 

[dbrannon79]

Those two screws where you see plastic behind them is the HVAC box on the inside of the firewall. I would mount it up higher where the firewall pertudes out a bit. that is where the cavity is that holds all the wiper arm linkage. If you want it mounted lower and plan to gut the dash and air box out for interior work, you can install some threaded inserts in that area after removing the HVAC air box from inside the cab. the only other area you can drill into without risking going into the air box is on the drivers side area.

others might have better solutions.

 

[93detroit]

That's what I thought was back there. Yes, I'm going to go higher. More room for the fuel lines as well.

 

[93detroit]

Finally got all my fittings and the 30lb spring for my AirDog. Time to make a mount.

 

[93detroit]

I will make some legs for increased stability Mon. (probably wouldn't need them).

 

[93detroit]

And there it is! I know the mount is crude- not all of my ideas are pretty. Still waiting for barbed Y for return and fittings for boost reference port. Will hook up power for sending unit yet tonight.

 

[93detroit]

All plumbed up and ready to go! I hope!
I set the initial pressure at 7psi. Hope to have time to fire it up tonight. The truck is away for the winter and as long as everything with the fuel system checks out in the shop, I will start the teardown of the front of the motor to install the gear drive.